From 80 to LX

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Joined
Jan 1, 2005
Threads
83
Messages
839
Location
West of Seattle, not West Seattle
So I just replaced my totaled locked 80 with a 09 LX. I needed to do something quick at the end of the year for tax purposes.

No accident dealer serviced west coast truck. So I will be replacing the radiator, water pump, serpentine belt, change the AHC fluid, and perhaps the starter. I do want to wait until the weather warms up before I start. What else should I look into (150K)?

I have Husky Liners coming tomorrow for the front and rear.

Issues, the rear lift gate doesn't open all the way and sometime it seams like the CDL sticks. I am guessing just like the 80 this needs some "exersize" on occation?

First impressions, I like it but I miss the 80. I want to base line the maintenance and figure out if I really want to keep it long term.
 
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Congrats on the Lx

If it was fully dealer maintained and you have the history, you still have to base line it ?

Since you miss the 80, will you sell the Lx and get another 80?
 
Congratulations. That's a huge time-warp. I think in time, the 200-series will earn your confidence in its capabilities.

You pretty much hit all the major things. Are you sure none of it has already been done at 150k? If you don't see evidence of the starter done, I would highly highly recommend it be done proactively as that's one of the few things that will leave you stranded without a hint prior.
 
Thanks, high level the maintenance includes fluid changes, brakes, etc. but no radiator or starter indicated. The rest of the services are every 5K from new to 135K miles then at 145K oil change and A/C blower motor was replaced.

I don't think I can go back to an 80 because of towing. I was waffling Tundra/Cummins or 200, in someways it's just too nice. I'll look for some wheels and tires either 17 or 18" for hunting trips.
 
Yes on exercising the CDL actuator. Being an LX, it's likely that the button never got pushed for the life of the vehicle. Just like the elockers on the 80 series, they need to move every once in awhile in order to stay freed up. Same with the lo range actuator.
 
Thanks Tom, I am switching both a couple of few times morning and at night to give them a little workout before I try it somewhere away from my tools. It looks like CDL can be locked in 4HI or 4LO? The other think that switching 4 HI/LO and CDL all must be done in neutral?
 
CDL can be switched on the fly. Switching between hi/lo has to be done in neutral.
 
CDL can be switched on the fly. Switching between hi/lo has to be done in neutral.

Yes. In fact, CDL won’t activate unless you are moving (army least on mine).
 
Issues, the rear lift gate doesn't open all the way

There is a thread about the rear hatch strut replacement with part numbers if you search, I will and add it if you can't find. Really easy and inexpensive. Same part Lexus and Toyota I believe as well.
 
Yes. In fact, CDL won’t activate unless you are moving (army least on mine).

On my 2013LC, when I "exercise" the Hi/Lo and CDL switches, I am stopped in Neutral - both engage/disengage without problem when stopped.

FYI
 
On my 2013LC, when I "exercise" the Hi/Lo and CDL switches, I am stopped in Neutral - both engage/disengage without problem when stopped.

FYI

Hmm. Maybe mine is getting sketchy...but usually my CDL likes to be moving to activate.
Perhaps that was one of many tweaks that happened on the 13? Maybe others with first gen 200s will chime in... Not a big deal, but curious now.
 
My CDL blinks when clicked at a stop and then when I move it bit it goes solid. 15lx

Right.
That’s what mine does.
By activate, I meant solid light...and engaged.
It will blink forever until I’m moving...and then locks, going solid light.
 
My CDL blinks when clicked at a stop and then when I move it bit it goes solid. 15lx
Right.
That’s what mine does.
By activate, I meant solid light...and engaged.
It will blink forever until I’m moving...and then locks, going solid light.

By activate, I also mean solid light and engaged.

When I am stopped IN NEUTRAL, my CDL engages with no problem. @Noah Miller , are you in NEUTRAL when your CDL blinks?
 
By activate, I also mean solid light and engaged.

When I am stopped IN NEUTRAL, my CDL engages with no problem. @Noah Miller , are you in NEUTRAL when your CDL blinks?

Mine blinks in neutral...but the manual reall didn’t say one way or the other...which does lead me to believe its supposed to engage regardless. I dunno... My truck is 11 years old...so I won’t assume it’s normal.
 
My CDL blinks in gear and goes solid in neutral. But I haven't tried it moving I don't want the damn thing to stick until I get it exercized a bit more. I didn't engage the CDL or F/R lockers in my 80 while moving so that isn't weird to me. Being in Neutral to move between High and Low is a different story.

With the stock 20" tires I really don't want to entertain much and have been actively looking at the Tundra rims, just waiting for some with other than stock tires.
 
By activate, I also mean solid light and engaged.

When I am stopped IN NEUTRAL, my CDL engages with no problem. @Noah Miller , are you in NEUTRAL when your CDL blinks?

Excellent question. I'll try tomorrow to confirm, but I think neutral was just to engage LO, so I would say I'm at a stoplight in D in heavy rain (want to try next curvy hill locked) and hit the CDL it blinks until I move then it activates.
 
My CDL blinks in gear and goes solid in neutral. But I haven't tried it moving I don't want the damn thing to stick until I get it exercized a bit more. I didn't engage the CDL or F/R lockers in my 80 while moving so that isn't weird to me. Being in Neutral to move between High and Low is a different story.

With the stock 20" tires I really don't want to entertain much and have been actively looking at the Tundra rims, just waiting for some with other than stock tires.

Ha! So apparently it’s entirely random... ;)
 
Mine blinks in neutral...but the manual reall didn’t say one way or the other...which does lead me to believe its supposed to engage regardless. I dunno... My truck is 11 years old...so I won’t assume it’s normal.
My 2010LC behaves in the same manner, blinks until the truck is in motion, then the light goes solid. I bought the truck new, but if my old brain remembers correctly this is the way it’s always worked.
 
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