Four Wheel Steer
- Thread starter TiredIronGRB
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Gr,
Hey I am actually going to chime in on a technical aspect, check out dieselcruiserheads thread in the 55 section on his new 80/55 hrbrid. pretty cool, he had to loose 6 inches out of the frame to make the wheelbase correct. seeing the frame all nekid and pretty might help you in your planning.
as far as unibody (upper) structure movement you will see if you have the rear mounts unsupported, You would be able to brace out laterally across the base and the tops of the rails if you worked it right but might still get in the way.
At your stance I figure your going to get 15-20 degrees of steering until you hit the frame or start ripping off the 1/4 panel.
Dave
Hey I am actually going to chime in on a technical aspect, check out dieselcruiserheads thread in the 55 section on his new 80/55 hrbrid. pretty cool, he had to loose 6 inches out of the frame to make the wheelbase correct. seeing the frame all nekid and pretty might help you in your planning.
as far as unibody (upper) structure movement you will see if you have the rear mounts unsupported, You would be able to brace out laterally across the base and the tops of the rails if you worked it right but might still get in the way.
At your stance I figure your going to get 15-20 degrees of steering until you hit the frame or start ripping off the 1/4 panel.
Dave
GRB,
I'm with Spike on this - no way can it be done in a durable fashion, and it will take you months of measuring, figuring and planning before the first cut is made. Then everything will break on your first trip, the truck will roll and you'll be in a flaming inferno all the way to the bottom of the mountain with your last mortal thought "Why didn't I listen to Spike and SpudHead?..." You're in over your head, I'm afraid. <snicker>
I don't see a durability issue with a front axle in the rear. If it can handle 50% of the torque as a front axle with the traction of the engine atop it, it can handle 50% of the torque as a rear axle with the added weight on it of climbing. Probably similar in component stress/wear actually. Email some of the European folks to see if you can score a BMW 7 Series electric steering mechanism in a wrecking yard. They have been fully electric (no mechanical linkage) for a couple years, but it's not been brought to the US for legal reasons yet. If these have the power, then it will simplify things for you - no hydraulics, no complex steering input strategy. You might be able to operate it with a simple linear lever, and some wire. It certainly will be compact also, since it's designed to be in the crowded engine bay of an automobile.
But again - I caution you not to try this thing - this dangerous, time consuming impossible thing.
DougM
I'm with Spike on this - no way can it be done in a durable fashion, and it will take you months of measuring, figuring and planning before the first cut is made. Then everything will break on your first trip, the truck will roll and you'll be in a flaming inferno all the way to the bottom of the mountain with your last mortal thought "Why didn't I listen to Spike and SpudHead?..." You're in over your head, I'm afraid. <snicker>
I don't see a durability issue with a front axle in the rear. If it can handle 50% of the torque as a front axle with the traction of the engine atop it, it can handle 50% of the torque as a rear axle with the added weight on it of climbing. Probably similar in component stress/wear actually. Email some of the European folks to see if you can score a BMW 7 Series electric steering mechanism in a wrecking yard. They have been fully electric (no mechanical linkage) for a couple years, but it's not been brought to the US for legal reasons yet. If these have the power, then it will simplify things for you - no hydraulics, no complex steering input strategy. You might be able to operate it with a simple linear lever, and some wire. It certainly will be compact also, since it's designed to be in the crowded engine bay of an automobile.
But again - I caution you not to try this thing - this dangerous, time consuming impossible thing.
DougM
- Thread starter
- #27
I don't think that would work very well with the porat axle in the front.Rich said:
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I don't get it
You have way to much time and $ on you hand GRB.
I really enjoyed the speed and quality of the portal buildup.
I recently removed all the spare tire junk and rear bumper on mine.
There is a ton of room up under there for all sorts of goodies.
Are you going to take a front portal and pop it back there or what?
Look forward to see this attempted even if you do not succeed there will be much learned.
You have way to much time and $ on you hand GRB.
I really enjoyed the speed and quality of the portal buildup.
I recently removed all the spare tire junk and rear bumper on mine.
There is a ton of room up under there for all sorts of goodies.
Are you going to take a front portal and pop it back there or what?
Look forward to see this attempted even if you do not succeed there will be much learned.
- Thread starter
- #30
fzj80kidpen said:
It's not that hard to do, just have to plan it out well. The hard part is deciding if I want to waste a $4000 set of axles for rear steer
Correct. The chevy rear steering is electronically controlled. At low speeds rear axle steers opposite from front, to greatly reduce turning radius. At high speeds, turns same direction, enabling lane change manuvers at higher speeds with greater stability. May give some insight on what could be adapted to a volvo axle.Walking Eagle said:
The chevy rear steer axle is a Dana 60 steering axle. Hardly a POS.Walking Eagle said:
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Didn't you just swap the portals in? Now your already wanting to swap out the rear?
- Thread starter
- #33
SOCALFJ said:
In October...yes, but with a steerable portal
