Forgot to put crank shaft at 45 degrees CCW of TDC when removing cams.

[apasill]

Long story short, I missed the step of placing the crank shaft at 45 degrees CCW of TDC when removing the cams for the camshaft seal replacement. I am afraid that I bent the valves since the notice in the screenshot says the piston head comes into contact with the valve.
Codes I have are P0300, P0301, P0304, P0306, P0308, and P0051.
Did compression test on cylinder 1 and came as 0, and I immediately realized I may have screwed the valves.
My question is, are there any resources y'all have used or anything I should know when removing the cylinder heads and replacing the bent valves?

 

[Rednexus]

I'd put in inspection camera into the spark plug hole to verify that you did or did not bend the valves. You should be able to see if there are any marks on the pistons. Or if you get one with a rotating head you can see if the valves aren't sitting flush in teh seats.

Regarding valve replacement, it's best left to a machine shop. They can cut the valve seats to restore them, grind the new valves to match the cut seats, replace the valve seals, shim the valve clearance properly, and (just as importantly) check the heads for flatness and machine them flat if needed.

You can DIY it in theory. I bent all 16 valves on a Subaru EJ25 (the timing belt broke - long story). Since it was a low-value car with 200K on it, I rolled the dice and bought 16 new valves and valve seals. Rather than a proper valve job, I lapped all 16 valves to their individual seat with a drill-powered valve lapper and lapping compound. However I only had half the valves you have, and the valve clearance on the Subie is easily adjusted via set screws (I understand the 2UZ-FE has shims). That car is still running nearly 6 years after I bent the valves.

If it were my 2UZ-FE in my rig, I'd verify the valves are bent, and if they are, pull them and send them out to a reputable machine shop.