Flex better or worse?

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NW-sickboy said:
Couple things (I went from the Js to the six inch spring recently)

1. I wouldnt neccesarily look at the six inch springs as a "kit". If your shocks are limiting get some bilstiens under there that are longer... i am in the process of mounting my shocks differently to get more drop (there is defenitly more to be had). Main concerns fabbing up something simple up front for the ABS wires, and something to allow the E-brake cable in the rear to drop more... right now my cable has the last brace removed.

I agree with this. The L shocks from OME is the longest direct bolt in that has the correct dampning for the 80. However the next couple of months we will see if we can source a better solution. For 90% of the people that are not like NW and tinker with their own trucks it is good enough. However a longer should would work a lot better and allow more flex, however at that point you would pretty much have to remove the swaybars otherwise you will repeatedly rip the mounts off.

NW-sickboy said:
2. I would like to think my 80 is "light" compared to other 80s. no long range tank. tubed rear bumper... trimmed the ARB up front..no rear seats. no drawere systems. In regauds to weight i kept my Sway bars in the rear but fabbed up some cool spacers and it seems to let me flex all i want. I need some stability because i am dont have much weight so it feels like my rig is WAY up there.....

The ShortBus has 850's up front with about 4" of spacers and 863J's in the rear with 2" spacer. Key to making it stable was to bolt the springs in and have them slightly short and bolted in so that they have negative spring rate and pull the truck down when the axle droops out.

NW-sickboy said:
3. I have tried a 2 inch spacer up front and it is great at times for breaking over and head on obstacles but seems pretty tall when i get on off camber stuff. love the up travel on it though so its on it now.

A tall 80 is a hand full, especially on off-camber or when the front end unloads on climbs. Having the negative spring pull really helps with that.

NW-sickboy said:
4. I felt to really get ALL the flex i wanted and still have the drivability i wanted that i need something other than the slee fron control arms so i went custom. the are a little longer and allow more flex in "theory". will get lots of product testing on these in the near future.

Can't wait to see them. The front control arm design on the 80 is not the best for flexing. The rear does all the work. 3 Link in the front will be a lot better.
 
WolfpackTLC said:
Wow. Hey guys thanks for all the responses.

1. My original intent was to run some 38's, perhaps even some 39's w/ trimming. Why? The red clay and wet surface wheeling we have around here requires tires OTHER than an MT/R (unless it's a 40", those self clean pretty well) that self clean, AND my heavy-ass rig )better than 7k, I'm sure) needs larger tires for better performance in the unfortunate (and inevitable) mud.

Might as well pull that 80 axle now and but in something bigger with a 3 link suspension in the front. I am done breaking birfields. The 4Runner that I am building will get something big in the front. Just not sure what.

WolfpackTLC said:
2. I'd also like to keep my COG as low as possible (I know, I know, no body lift) while still gaining enough clearance to run 38's. NW-Sickboy had mentioned in a previous post that he may have had better performance w/ his OME's.

Tall tires low COG means cut.

WolfpackTLC said:
3. I keep thinking that my limiting factor in performance (up travel) is related to the bumpstops halting the upward progress of the axle to save the body. That's why I was thinking a body lift would let me remove my bump stop extensions.

2" body lift is about as high as you should go. Then from there you need to make space for the tires. The wheelwells are just to small.
 
landtank said:
I think Uglibus has posted an excellent pic of the problems of running with rims of the wrong backspacing.

Uglibus was build for hard core wheeling. Mike has another 80 for daily driver. Stability was chosen over tire fitment. He always knew that the sawzall will have to be used sometimes. Most people compromise by trying to tuck the tires so they don't have to do body mods. I understand that, but if you build a hard core wheeling truck, then worrying about the body should be the last thing to think about. Get the truck to work right and run the tire size you want.
 
WolfpackTLC said:
I've got Christo's panhard too.... Call me SLEE boy... ;-D

Shawn's stuff is here:

http://www.actionjackson.com/cruiser/

Pay attention to his run @ Golden Crack... WOW.

J

That is the bottom line on the crack and just about any 80 with OME does the same there. They all articulate the same with the same shocks. Now move your shock mounts and put longer shocks on, remove the swaybars and then it will change a lot.


Compare the attached picture. That was when I was running 860 springs in the rear with 2" spacer (ok body does not count). This is the top section of the crack as Robbie mentioned. Did not lift a tire. The difference is that I am running 14" travel Rancho shocks with the mounts on the rear moved about 6" up to accomodate the longer shocks. Also notice that it is mostly the rear working and not the front. No swaybars.
crack_sof.webp
 
NW-sickboy said:
I have to do some body work up front from a flop on my passenger side so i can still use my turn signal and at the same time am trying to figure out how to Cut some fender out .... Maybe we can find or get christo to post how he trimmed the front of the short bus.

Hey it was not pretty, as Wolfpack mentioned I just cut the fender on the line where the flare used to be. Cut as much of the inner fender on the front and the rear as I could. It aint pretty but it works.
 
Reading this reminds me why some resolve to build buggies . And I don't mean to downplay the experimenting going on here by saying that . Just seems a lot of what is asked of a DD flexer is diminished or jammed up by either pole ...

T
 
And Christo has spoken! (bout time... ;-) )

I've already ordered the wheel tubs...

Bilstein's are on the way....

And I'm ready to cut up front....

Anybody wanna help me design a 3 link up front to run a 60?

woo hoo
 
Flex withe 6" slee springs

Here's my truck with 6" slee spring going over the crack. Pretty relaxing.
Cheers,
Sean
 
WolfpackTLC said:
And Christo has spoken! (bout time... ;-) )

I've already ordered the wheel tubs...

Bilstein's are on the way....

And I'm ready to cut up front....

Anybody wanna help me design a 3 link up front to run a 60?

woo hoo

cant wait to see how this turns out.... after seeing the different directions everyone is going it will be fun to see the pro's and cons... Its all in what your willing to do... I am willing to Hack up the front but new tubs in the rear sounds like a ton of work its like the piont of no return....

I dont DD my 80 and it would be way more practical to build my 40 or 45 but i love wheeling my 80. it is such a kick to see peoples reactions when the see an 80 GETTING IT AWN....

what bilstiens did you go with ? 5150's... ?
 
NW-sickboy said:
I dont DD my 80 ....... it is such a kick to see peoples reactions when the see an 80 GETTING IT AWN....

It's a shame that some of you building your rigs up don't get a chance to drive them every day. Nothing better than driving it around every day, then taking it to the trail to beat on it, then drive it home. That is the beauty of the 80.
 
Interesting change on Poison Spider's waterfall obstacle. A few years ago I noted the turn/bypass he's showing on his page was faintly there. Now it looks like there's trail lines painted on it? Interesting.

DougM
 

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