Fj60 carburetor (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys I was wondering what should i do I got two stock carburetors from an 83 and 86 fj60 but would really like to go to a Weber because of all the vacuum lines! to get away from all the vacuum lines also it's gonna be desmogged as well ? Whats y'all's thoughts ?!?
 

klinetime574

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Eliminating vacuum lines usually means you will be desmogging. Systems could be removed and the truck remain smogged, but usually people don't do that.

I've run a Weber, and now I have my stock carb back on. For me the Aisan carb is better. It has a mechanical choke, A/C Idle-Up, and all the needed lines. The Weber does run well once tuned, but that's all I got out of it. Using the AC was always annoying. Luckily in Texas I never needed the choke, so I just disabled it. I could never get the electric choke to work properly.

That Weber carb is for sale with accessories if you're interested. /shamelessplug

Make sure that you'll be able to pass any tests before you go removing things.
 
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the NJ word..
If you are gonna run the Weber than you will basically be desmogged.
I put on a Weber years ago.
Then went back to stock Aisin. Wasn't a real fan of the Weber.
 
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i sent my stock carb to fj40jim for some love (search for fj40jim for contact). all the talk about passing state exams should be heeded. be certain of your path and then run like a scalded dog.
 
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I too ran a webber for a while. I will never use anything but a stock LC carb or Trollhole copy, LC efi or LPG mixer on a TLC. webber makes a great BBQ...a stock 80-87 usa carb rebuilt and set up to run desmogged with HAC is about the best for all round use. if you aren't confident in rebujilding yourself, send to one of the gurus. make certain to follow the desmog schematic and steps as they have been well established and explained. just yanking vacuum lines and dropping in a webber/holley is a far cry from a right desmog., if you aren't familiar with the way these systems are supposed to work, you're best leaving them be and have someone who does get dirty...or spend some time here and GET FAMILIAR...
 
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I have run a Weber, Trollhole and now a stock carb that FJ40Jim rebuilt and set up for desmog. With the stock carb and timing at 10* it has never run better. I would definitely recommend that route. You will wait a while on Jim because he's busy. You should also consider having him recurve your distrubuter for optimum desmog setting. If you search his name on here he also has lots of goodies like EGR plugs and idler wheels to replace the smog pump that will help you do the desmog right.
 
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Age old argument. If your stock carb is in poor shape and not working well, then a Weber may actually run better than stock. But a superior solution would be to get your stock carb working correctly. And if you want to lose the smog systems, you can do that as well. Good luck.
 
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KadenCorey

I have a Weber mounted on my FJ60 and the tunning is pretty simple. I pulled all my air injection and the lines, so I just go my carburetor. The only thing doing this is you kill the possibilty to help the engine is high altitude. Mine works just fine. Have fun
 
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I have run a Weber, Trollhole and now a stock carb that FJ40Jim rebuilt and set up for desmog. With the stock carb and timing at 10* it has never run better. I would definitely recommend that route. You will wait a while on Jim because he's busy. You should also consider having him recurve your distrubuter for optimum desmog setting. If you search his name on here he also has lots of goodies like EGR plugs and idler wheels to replace the smog pump that will help you do the desmog right.
Wait a while is a huge understatement and you are dealing with someone that doesn't return messages neither phone nor email. The problem with the stock carbs is that parts have dried up such that anyone with sources for rebuild components don't answer to anyone.
 

Spike Strip

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Wait a while is a huge understatement and you are dealing with someone that doesn't return messages neither phone nor email. The problem with the stock carbs is that parts have dried up such that anyone with sources for rebuild components don't answer to anyone.

Please, let me be the first to FLAME you:

We get it you're pissed cuz you sent the carb to Jim for rebuild and it's taken a while. Dude, even Superman deserved a vacation. You've posted this gripe elsewhere and didn't listen to the response. Jim is probably the most honest and helpful poster here (except me :D), and you will get your carb back. He's a one-man shop and though it only takes a few minuets to answer your email, how much time do you think it takes to answer a 100, plus calls ??

Mark Algazy runs essentially the same one-man thing on the West Coast, and I've personally seen how much time it takes him to deal with phone/email/delivery and jokers like me showing up to chat. He has to be selective if he wants to get any actual work done.

Be patient, young skywalker, your carb is with da force...
 
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Thank you Spike - It should be clear that 5 weeks should not be the expectation. If I'd known it was a 3+ month wait I could have planned for that. On this site the default answer is to go with the aisan carb rebuilt by JimC, the wait time should be an expectation that is set as part of that recommendation. Certainly the main reason I chose to send him my carb was due to his comments and clear understanding of how the aisan carb was engineered to work. I do appreciate your reply - your second to my comment was what I was fishing for. There is now a clear record around the wait time involved from a member of his fan club. In my case I would not have removed my carburetor but bought a spare and sent it in so I could weather the wait without my rig sitting unable to be sent for paint and some custom welding at my friend's shop. I would have made sure this project was not in the critical path of others. I think everyone should plan to have 2 carburetors and have the spare already rebuilt and ready to go given how hard it is to source carb rebuild parts. Certainly I'll send a spare out for rebuild as soon as I'm able. Thank you Spike for your presence on this site, your posts have been a great help to me.
 

Spike Strip

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Jim's turnaround seems to be 4-8 weeks, so obviously, 90 days is beyond the norm. I've never had a carb rebuilt by him, but I've had distributors done, and it did take a long time, but I expected it and loved the finished product. Now, I know from Mark A. when there's a rant on the web about something, there's always more to the story than what the ranter posts. Not sayin' that's the case here, just sayin'....

And, people usually preface a recommendation for Jim's carb rebuild with the suggestion you acquire a temporary carb first, if the 60 is your DD. However, at this point, by the time you find another good carb and rebuild and install it, you'll have your carb back, no doubt.

Good luck, and if you want to try a basic carb rebuild yourself, we can help you here. It's really not too difficult.
 
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Jim's turnaround seems to be 4-8 weeks, so obviously, 90 days is beyond the norm. I've never had a carb rebuilt by him, but I've had distributors done, and it did take a long time, but I expected it and loved the finished product. Now, I know from Mark A. when there's a rant on the web about something, there's always more to the story than what the ranter posts. Not sayin' that's the case here, just sayin'....

And, people usually preface a recommendation for Jim's carb rebuild with the suggestion you acquire a temporary carb first, if the 60 is your DD. However, at this point, by the time you find another good carb and rebuild and install it, you'll have your carb back, no doubt.

Good luck, and if you want to try a basic carb rebuild yourself, we can help you here. It's really not too difficult.

Yes, I went that route, sourced and rebuilt one myself. Very disappointed with the rebuild kit I got at NAPA, putting it on the rig tonight. I think everyone is so blown away by the smog linkages on the outside it is very straight forward internally. The one thing I'd say is the comments to send it out combined with how complex it is externally gives the impression that you should avoid rebuilding it yourself. I had to buy a 1/4" deep well socket set, and modify a couple large screwdrivers, but I found the stumbling block is more around sourcing decent rebuild components than disassembling and reassembling the carb. I always had a new float and main jets in the kits I used on my old chevys.
 

Spike Strip

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I agree. Sourcing good parts is difficult because you really have to buy a couple of different branded kits and pick the best parts out of each. You end up spending close to $100 right there... And forget finding US-spec main or slow jets if yours are buggered trying to remove them. The other issue is knowing what to do if something is fawked up or has been previously butchered by PO attempts to make your rig do 3-second 0-60 times. But the basic part of taking the carb apart, cleaning everything and blowing out the passages, and reassembling, is not that tough, if you're careful and take pics and read.

FWIW, when asking for a desmogged carb, both Jim and Mark A. do some proprietary voodoo to make your US-spec carb run like carbs in Botswana or some parts of Chicago ;). So the short answer is, if you want it to run better than it ever did, send it out for a guru rebuild. I had my 60 carb rebuilt by Mark A of marksoffroad.net, in Burbank, CA.
 

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