FJ40 Cruiser Resto

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 29, 2004
Threads
24
Messages
90
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
"Im new.... I dont know what to do.............." (Joe Dirt)
Recently my '79 FJ40 just became a little more "custom". Here in Salt Lake City I found a cruiser tub off of an '81, rhino lined, same color, and NO RUST! However the firewall and top of the cowl where the hood hinges bolt in was bent up! I removed the fire wall, cowl top and trans cover from my '79. I wasn't hard being that those pieces where the only pieces of my '79 that weren't rusted through. I used my '79 firewall as sort of a replacement panel/cap and tackwelded that sucker in. It turned out quite well if I do say so my self. However I still have a little tweeking to do. When I tried to install my hardtop there was a gap between the tub and the top where the posts from the top insert in to the tub. "Fuh...!" This is the first delema. I am sure that someone will come along, read this and laugh at my misfortune. Go ahead and laugh away. This gap confuses me for a couple of reasons. The body lines on the '81 tub were straight and still are straight after the firewall transplant. Even measurement wise everything was sound. Yes I did measure many times before and after cutting and welding. Nothing that was cut or welded would have raised the windshield to create this gap near the 'B' pillar of my roll bar. Other that the gap the hard top fits pretty darn good. Since this is my first cruiser and first tub replacement, I do not know what might be required to obtain drum tight fittment from my hardtop after rebuilding a tub. The only thing that I can think of is that I might have to rebuild the hard top on the tub to get a glove fit. Next slight issue.... The piece of the cowl just below the windshield that I replaced needs some help. This piece that I replaced is tackwelded about every 3/4 of an inch, to the vertical piece of the cowl that sits just below the windshield. Its not a pretty but it workeded and after all of that welding none of the metal warped. The warping is what I wanted to avoid. Now I am just trying to figure out what the next step is going to be with this part of the body work. I would like to fiberglass over it to fill the small gaps but I do not know if it will end up cracking with flex in the tub while wheeling. If anyone has some good ideas to solve these two problems let me know.

:doh:
 
Am I understanding you correctly in that the gap you're getting is between the tub and the hard-top side panels (ie an inch above where the front door latches onto the B-pillar)? Have you tried bolting the hard-top side pannels to the tub first (with the fiberglass cap unbolted). This should eliminate your gap, but instead create a new gap at the top of the the B-pillar (between the hard-top side panel and the fiberglass cap).

When I re-install the fiberglass cap, I bolt it to the windshield first, and then get a friend to push the top of the windshield towards the rear of the truck and hold it there. Then the small gap at the top of the B- pillar disappears, and the bolt holes along the back edge of the cap line up with the captive nuts in the top of the rear upper sill. However, This is a stock (un mismatched) truck, so I hope your's just required a little "persuasion".

When I was sealing up my cowl to windshield joint (the seam-sealed joint just under the rubber windshield custion) I decided to weld it up rather than use a seam sealer which would leak in a few years. Using a low voltage and slow wire speed, and only tack welding a little at a time, I didn't warp anything that couldn't be filled with the little high build primer. After all the tacks were jointed, I ground the weld down so it was concave, and ran a little filler over with my finger to smooth it out.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a picture hosting site? I'm fed up with Sony ImageStation.
I'm getting my tub back from Rhinolinigs tomorrow, and can get a better picture of the cowl seam if you'd like...


Cheers,
Steve
 
I've also had this problem. In my case the cowl had leaned back causing the windshield to stand a little too tall which gave me the same gap your talking about. I had to use a Hi-Lift to jack the door opening apart and stand the cowl back up straight. To check, measure the door opening at the bottom, just above the curve. Then measure the top. It should be pretty close to the same if you welded everything together correctly. If the door opening is smaller at the top than the bottom that might be part of your problem.

Might also be an issue with the gasket under the windshield. Your welds in that area may need to be ground down some more so there is enough room for the gasket to squish out. You can check this by pulling the gasket out then trying to install the top. If it fits better without the gasket I'd be looking in the gasket area for excess weld.

You might also need to adjust the windshield hinges so there is more space between the bottom of the windshield frame and the top of the cowl. Again so there is enough room for the gasket to fit.

I, for one, would like to know what you find is ultimately wrong...

:cheers:

Nick Jennings
 
Back
Top Bottom