FJ cruise control with 35s

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Smaddox

Smaddox

10 Year
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Threads
34
Messages
173
Location
Dallas TX
I know this subject has been brought up before, but always with older model FJs. On the FJs with newer engines (I think it's 2010+?) is there issues with cruise control and 35s? I have a 2012, and plan to swap to the ome suspension. I would prefer to go with 35s, but I drive a lot, so I need my cruise control to function properly. If anyone can help I'd appreciate it!
 
We deal with a lot of Fj's and we have not heard of this issue. I could see the cruise control not working as efficiently due to the bigger tires, stock gearing etc. But there is no reason why the cruise control would just quit working.

Our Shop trucks (07 FJ) cruise control still works and it has 315/75r16's or "small" 35's on it.


Jeff
 
The issue I've read a lot about is how the transmission will shift up or down randomly when cruise control is engaged?
 
The highways out here in tx are pretty flat. With stock tires I have no issues at all with it. But I'm having a hard time convincing myself to go with 33s.. they seem so small.. Times like this I miss my FJ 80 :\
 
It's the electronically controlled transmission trying to obtain the best MPGs. As said above, if you upsize your tires, better plan on regearing your diffs. I have 35's and 4.56 gears, my cruise control is pretty good unless I'm in hilly territory, but that's true of any vehicle. Also depends on what your cruise control speed is set. If you like to ride at the upper end of your transmission's shift points (2200-2500 RPM if I recall), then expect more downshifting as it tries to maintain your set speed. I usually adjust my C/C to not hunt so much and find a speed that is within my normal RPM shift point. All that's based on ascent/descent changes too. If you are in rolling hills, then set a more conservative speed. Flat out in TX, you shouldn't have too many problems, but sounds like a regear is definitely in your future. It was certainly one of the best mods I ever did to mine. You'll notice a huge improvement in crawl speed in 4LO too, less brake pedal and more controlled rock crawling.
 
BMThiker said:
It's the electronically controlled transmission trying to obtain the best MPGs. As said above, if you upsize your tires, better plan on regearing your diffs. I have 35's and 4.56 gears, my cruise control is pretty good unless I'm in hilly territory, but that's true of any vehicle. Also depends on what your cruise control speed is set. If you like to ride at the upper end of your transmission's shift points (2200-2500 RPM if I recall), then expect more downshifting as it tries to maintain your set speed. I usually adjust my C/C to not hunt so much and find a speed that is within my normal RPM shift point. All that's based on ascent/descent changes too. If you are in rolling hills, then set a more conservative speed. Flat out in TX, you shouldn't have too many problems, but sounds like a regear is definitely in your future. It was certainly one of the best mods I ever did to mine. You'll notice a huge improvement in crawl speed in 4LO too, less brake pedal and more controlled rock crawling.
Click to expand...

How hard is it to re-gear?
 
Mr45 said:
How hard is it to re-gear?
Click to expand...

How mechanically-inclined are you? The easiest way is to remove the rear third member, drop the front clamshell diff, and send them to East Coast Gear Supply and exchange them for rebuilt ones with the new gears of your choice. They will send you the new ones ahead of time for a core charge so you can do it all at once if you want.
 
1911 said:
How mechanically-inclined are you? The easiest way is to remove the rear third member, drop the front clamshell diff, and send them to East Coast Gear Supply and exchange them for rebuilt ones with the new gears of your choice. They will send you the new ones ahead of time for a core charge so you can do it all at once if you want.
Click to expand...

Plenty of mechanical skill, just never tackled this before. What should I expect to pay for a new/rebuilt set?
 
I have the luxury of having my friends at www.ACCGarage.com nearby. I did the removal of the diffs, they set up my gears, bearings, spacers and then I re-installed the diffs. If that wasn't the case, I'd use East Coast Gear in a heartbeat. Their prices are well in line and I have only heard good things about them. I also believe JustDifferentials.com offers a similar service, but you have to call them for specifics - both vendors are forum sponsors and have good reputations here on IH8MUD.
 
Yes we do also offer complete 3rd members, or you can send yours in to be regeared. We stock all of the parts as well as cores, and build more Toyota diffs than anyone out there. here are the parts links:
All Nitro 4.10 4.56 & 4.88 font gearsets are now "thick" to fit OEM 3.73 carrier or ARB RD121.



07-09 FJ Cruiser, 03-09 4runner & GX470, Prado 120, Fortuner

4.10 Without OEM Locker

4.10 WITH OEM Locker

4.56 Without OEM Locker

4.56 WITH OEM Locker

4.88 Without OEM Locker

4.88 WITH OEM Locker



ARB RD132 Rear Locker 09 & older Rear





ARB RD121 Front Air locker (use with stock AT FJ, or all with Nitro gears)



Chromoly rear axles



We have also seen a lot of failures on 09 & older FJ cruisers and offer this upgraded rearend package click here





2010+ FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, Prado 150, GX460

4.56 Without OEM Locker

4.56 WITH OEM Locker

4.88 Without OEM Locker

4.88 WITH OEM Locker



ARB RD121 Front Air locker (use with stock AT FJ, or all with Nitro gears)

ARBRD193 Rear Locker 2010+ 8.2 rear





Chromoly rear axles
 
@just differentials
I'm confused by the options in the drop down boxes. Are the prices listed for just a housing - or - fully assemble with a 3rd and aftermarket locker? The description at the bottom of the page seems to contradict what is available in the selection boxes...or am I just reading it wrong?

I'm looking for a source for a bolt on 8.2 axle housing including matching 3rd with OEM e-locker and drive shaft flange. Then I would recycle my hubs, wheel sensors, calipers, axle shafts, brake lines, etc.
 
Base price is for the axle housing only.
-Add front 3rd member (optional)
-add hardware kit or hardware kit & chromoly axles
-Add 8.2" rear 3rd member of choice.

Worded a bit differently:
This makes for an easy swap for your vehicle and will utilize your existing axle shafts, brakes, abs system etc.

Base price is for an empty axle housing. It will also require a 3rd Member, Housing studs, nuts, axle seals (all of which we offer in the dropdown). Also optionally you can add the chromoly rear axle shafts and/or a matching 3rd member for the front. If you have questions or want another option, please call or email.

BMThiker said:
@just differentials
I'm confused by the options in the drop down boxes. Are the prices listed for just a housing - or - fully assemble with a 3rd and aftermarket locker? The description at the bottom of the page seems to contradict what is available in the selection boxes...or am I just reading it wrong?

I'm looking for a source for a bolt on 8.2 axle housing including matching 3rd with OEM e-locker and drive shaft flange. Then I would recycle my hubs, wheel sensors, calipers, axle shafts, brake lines, etc.
Click to expand...
 
So what I'd be looking for is the bare housing
$999.99
Hardware kit
$72.50
8.2" w/OEM e-locker & 4.56 gear set
$1314.00
===========
$2386.49

And everything else I scavenge off my existing 8.0" housing, correct?
 
Not sure where you got the elocker. We dont offer this option as it costs far more than with the TJM or ARB locker. The 8.2" OEM Locker does not give you the full upgrade as the carrier portion is essentially same as 8". The aftermarket lockers are stronger.

We can offer it with 3.73, 4.56 or 4.88 and Open, ARB, or TJM.

Please feel free to call or email and we can put together a complete package for you.


BMThiker said:
So what I'd be looking for is the bare housing
$999.99
Hardware kit
$72.50
8.2" w/OEM e-locker & 4.56 gear set
$1314.00
===========
$2386.49

And everything else I scavenge off my existing 8.0" housing, correct?
Click to expand...
BMThiker said:
So what I'd be looking for is the bare housing
$999.99
Hardware kit
$72.50
8.2" w/OEM e-locker & 4.56 gear set
$1314.00
===========
$2386.49

And everything else I scavenge off my existing 8.0" housing, correct?
Click to expand...
 
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