Finally got around to putting a rebuilt and upgraded head on my FJ60 2F (1 Viewer)

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Now there are 4 head gaskets in the US...I only can say that because one just arrived to my door, no damage!
(don't quote on actually number in the US, just going off the OP number count).
 
Nice looking head Norsk. Head work seems to be the most bang for the buck on any engine. You can think about doing it again after about a half-million miles. :)
 
lehiguy said:
Nice looking head Norsk. Head work seems to be the most bang for the buck on any engine. You can think about doing it again after about a half-million miles. :)
Click to expand...

that is what I was told in other threads here, but my original was at 217k miles and was VERY tired. Bad Care from POs? don't know. Better care with me. Since I bought a second head and had it done, I can now take the original head I just took off, and have it done, waiting and ready for the next time (LOL).

Others here said to leave the head alone, but I am so GLAD I did it. Yes the 2F is slow, but with that OLD head he was dead goat slow. Could not climb anything incline in 2Hi, always had to go to Low to do it. Now, 1st in 2Hi does very well

The machinist only took off 25 thousandeths off of the head, while I have read JimC and others have taken 50 thousandeths. My new head does have the Stainless Chevy valves - which the machinist installed with skill - he knew what he was doing.
 
Hope I'm not hijacking your thread, but since I brought it back from the rec
P1010894.jpg
ent dead....

I was wondering if you could tell me how much the Valve Job kit cost from Dan and what parts/gaskets were in it. I called Dan, but he doesn't seem to be around, so I called Boulder Toyota (in CO) and they said $295 for the kit or $168 for the Head Gasket. They don't seem to know much about Iron Pigs though...

I have an 85 FJ60 that the PO blew a Head Gasket on in 2001, he knew the coolant hoses were bad but ignored it, his mechanic told him they were rotten. Anyway I bought this 60 for parts, but I need a second vehicle now so I thought I'd resurrect it.

The leak down test that PO got in 2001 was: Compression #2 120, leak down 25%.

Also Boulder Toyota told me that they were using The Engine Shop in Longmont, CO. for head machining. Does anyone know of a great shop in the Denver metro area?

Thank You in advance!
 
norsk said:
that is what I was told in other threads here, but my original was at 217k miles and was VERY tired. Bad Care from POs? don't know. Better care with me. Since I bought a second head and had it done, I can now take the original head I just took off, and have it done, waiting and ready for the next time (LOL).

Others here said to leave the head alone, but I am so GLAD I did it. Yes the 2F is slow, but with that OLD head he was dead goat slow. Could not climb anything incline in 2Hi, always had to go to Low to do it. Now, 1st in 2Hi does very well

The machinist only took off 25 thousandeths off of the head, while I have read JimC and others have taken 50 thousandeths. My new head does have the Stainless Chevy valves - which the machinist installed with skill - he knew what he was doing.
Click to expand...

.025 is great, should still run on 85 octane, especially where you live. I took .070 off my old 2F's head, I had to run premium or retard the timing so far that it ran poorly which was a draw back.
 
griffon said:
Hope I'm not hijacking your thread, but since I brought it back from the rec
P1010894.jpg
ent dead....

I was wondering if you could tell me how much the Valve Job kit cost from Dan and what parts/gaskets were in it. I called Dan, but he doesn't seem to be around, so I called Boulder Toyota (in CO) and they said $295 for the kit or $168 for the Head Gasket. They don't seem to know much about Iron Pigs though...

I have an 85 FJ60 that the PO blew a Head Gasket on in 2001, he knew the coolant hoses were bad but ignored it, his mechanic told him they were rotten. Anyway I bought this 60 for parts, but I need a second vehicle now so I thought I'd resurrect it.

The leak down test that PO got in 2001 was: Compression #2 120, leak down 25%.

Also Boulder Toyota told me that they were using The Engine Shop in Longmont, CO. for head machining. Does anyone know of a great shop in the Denver metro area?

Thank You in advance!
Click to expand...

From Dan it was under $200 for the kit, which comes with head gasket, valve oil seals, valve gasket, thermo housing gasket, valve cover gasket and valve cover bolt gaskets. I didn't use the oil seals since the SS valves needs different ones and the machinist make "it work" well. I just have extra gaskets.

It is now late August and the rig is working well. Still getting 12-13 mpg and stronger than ever before I did the rebuild. I really liked the way I bought a second head and had it rebuilt my way then lined up all the parts and just a swap out.

I find having 2nd set of parts to work with, really helps on working on this truck

doug
 
Still pulling 12-13 mpg, and still strong - for a 2F, I guess. I say again, doing the head was the best bang for the buck on helping the rig go and do things.
 
Good thread - thanks. Thinking of doing something similar.
 
RAMZ said:
what all is involved in using the chevy SS valves?
Click to expand...

JimC posted the valve sizes (somewhere on MUD) which I used when ordering a set from a local valve source here in Utah.
Then had my machinist install them

I understand JimC does (did) head overhauls doing the SS valves.

One of the SEV or POL is no longer available, the other one is the ordered

My machinist found seals that fit, the 2F seals did NOT fit. He also
found some springs that fit


1.5 inch Exhaust
1.84 inch Intake

Here are some emails:



http://www.rpmmachine.com/si-valves-chevrolet-claimerv8.shtml



I don't remember what the difference is. Call and ask 'em which would be better for a low RPM torker engine.

On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 4:45 PM, Doug Thompson <norsk5@yahoo.com> wrote:

thanks, got the plugs

on the valves, they list two different part numbers for each of INT and EXH

1.500 Exhaust
4.88

21-4N

E-2809-POL

7.50
1.500 Exhaust
4.88

21-4N

SEV-2809

7.50
1.84
4.88

21-4N

SEV-3091

7.50
1.84
4.88

21-2N

I-3091-POL

7.50








which one would I order? The SEV or the POL versions?


thx

doug t


--- On Thu, 5/6/10, Jim Chenoweth <fj40jim@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Jim Chenoweth <fj40jim@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 6 air plugs and SS valves for a head
To: "norsk @ IH8MUD.com" <w1dug@xmission.com>
Date: Thursday, May 6, 2010, 10:27 AM

Doug,
Plugs are all $1 ea, plus $5 to put them in a priority Mail box to
you, so $11 for what you need.

The SBC valves are standard length 1.84 and 1.50.
I like these:
http://www.rpmmachine.com/si-valves-chevrolet-claimerv8.shtml

Use the short springs from exhaust valves on smog SBC. And standard
retainers and locks. and whatever seals will fit. IIRC, we're using
ones spec'ed for ford V6??

GL

On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 10:18 PM, norsk @ IH8MUD.com <w1dug@xmission.com> wrote:
> Jim
>
> I need another set of 6 AIR injection plugs for my second head, but not the other 2 plugs nor the caps. What would the cost be on those? thx
>
> And I saw a post you made on Stainless Steel valve replacements and their sizes that would work on in the 2F head (the 61040 1986 2F). I have tried to search and search but cannot find that post.
>
> Could you send the valve sizes as well when you reply with the price of the 6 plugs?
>
> I am getting some coolant leak from the head now, so I am preparing the 2nd head for the swapout. Other than that, the dizzy is great and the idler fit wonderfully. Will be turning 200k in the next week or so.
>
> One interesting event happened was one the 6 flywheel bolts cracked and messed up my 12 month old clutch and disk. The shop found a bolt locally, but i need to order 6 news ones again for "the next time"
>
> thanks
> doug thompson (norsk)
> Heber City UT
--
Thanks,
Jim Chenoweth
TLC Performance
Lancaster, Ohio, USA

doug
 
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