Final Fix for Drivers Seat Tear

[All Four]

How much would it cost? This is definitely something I need for my truck.

I stand corrected about the seats. $800?!?!?!?

Cost would depend on how many people want one. I know how much time it takes me to cut, weld, and drill one. I also re-militarized that one. The Gov. likes to paint over ALL of the markings and stickers. They find it easier than scraping them off. Most of these are de-militarized when you get them. I spent an extra hour carefully removing the paint that the man put over the stencils and hazmat label. I have a contact who has several pallets of these cans, and he will give me a discount for the more I buy. I usually have him ship them to me one at a time, but I will go pick up a load of them if there is interest. If no interest, I would make you a one-off if you want.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Cost would depend on how many people want one. I know how much time it takes me to cut, weld, and drill one. I also re-militarized that one. The Gov. likes to paint over ALL of the markings and stickers. They find it easier than scraping them off. Most of these are de-militarized when you get them. I spent an extra hour carefully removing the paint that the man put over the stencils and hazmat label. I have a contact who has several pallets of these cans, and he will give me a discount for the more I buy. I usually have him ship them to me one at a time, but I will go pick up a load of them if there is interest. If no interest, I would make you a one-off if you want.

Would it be possible for me to get just a can? I'd love to replace mine, even if it doesn't have the sweet lid mods yours does.

 

[Nemesis Gnat]

i think the point of not going straight down has something to do with the forces on your spine (possibly collapsing it?)... ive seen those long y belts go all the way to the back of a lot of rally cars, just under the rear windscreen. does the harness maker have suggestions? safety is just the one thing i do NOT mess with... ive heard of a few sandrail guys getting killed by improperly installed seat belts... so i thought id chime in

iiiii dunno ill get out of your hair and let this thread move back to the coolness of the new setup... always been a fan of anything mil-spec

 

[TOME]

Cost would depend on how many people want one. I know how much time it takes me to cut, weld, and drill one. I also re-militarized that one. The Gov. likes to paint over ALL of the markings and stickers. They find it easier than scraping them off. Most of these are de-militarized when you get them. I spent an extra hour carefully removing the paint that the man put over the stencils and hazmat label. I have a contact who has several pallets of these cans, and he will give me a discount for the more I buy. I usually have him ship them to me one at a time, but I will go pick up a load of them if there is interest. If no interest, I would make you a one-off if you want.

If interest were gotten... whats a ball park of what they would be?

 

[tucson_sailors]

Console ammo can

Think y'all are looking for a 20mm/30mm ammo can. Here's the specs I pulled off of a website online. My local surplus place has them for about $6.00 each, I'm going to go verify after work if its the right size.

Size 8 1/2" x 14" x 18". Approx. weight is 22 lbs.

Shouldn't be that hard to get someone to weld a hinge on the back if you can't do it yourself, and then it would be either a block of wood to level it, or some bent sheet steel to make some brackets, and using the existing frame mounts after drilling through the bottom of the can. And I agree, probably a whole lot more "tuffy" than the aftermarket consoles, though the aftermarket are much more civilized looking.

Glenn in Tucson

 

[kramermic]

We build a lot race cars and set up of a proper harness bar is essential. Not only is it necessary to have the harnesses properly mounted, but you must make sure the height of the belts is correct. They should never be low enough to apply any pressure downward.

 

[All Four]

Thanks

We build a lot race cars and set up of a proper harness bar is essential. Not only is it necessary to have the harnesses properly mounted, but you must make sure the height of the belts is correct. They should never be low enough to apply any pressure downward.

Looking to have a roll bar with harness attachments fabricated soon. Truck has not been driven as shown, due to interior work and slipping clutch. I plan on tackling the clutch first, then on to the harnesses.

 

[All Four]

Think y'all are looking for a 20mm/30mm ammo can. Here's the specs I pulled off of a website online. My local surplus place has them for about $6.00 each, I'm going to go verify after work if its the right size.

Size 8 1/2" x 14" x 18". Approx. weight is 22 lbs.

Shouldn't be that hard to get someone to weld a hinge on the back if you can't do it yourself, and then it would be either a block of wood to level it, or some bent sheet steel to make some brackets, and using the existing frame mounts after drilling through the bottom of the can. And I agree, probably a whole lot more "tuffy" than the aftermarket consoles, though the aftermarket are much more civilized looking.

Glenn in Tucson

Glenn, They need the 30 mm unit. No need to weld a hinge on, just use as-is if you can't weld. If you want to be able to swing the top open, (like the oe job) you will need to shave off one of the lid retainers at teh least. I welded one latch shut to force that latch to act as the hinge.
Remove the old console and make a template of the bolt holes. Drill the bottom of the can, and bolt it in. It fits without welding legs on it. BTW the holes in the factory console are way oversized for the screws that are used. Drill them only slightly oversized, and use a hammer to adjust the oe legs until it fits.

 

[All Four]

Thanks

We build a lot race cars and set up of a proper harness bar is essential. Not only is it necessary to have the harnesses properly mounted, but you must make sure the height of the belts is correct. They should never be low enough to apply any pressure downward.

Thanks to Nemisis Gnat and Krameric for their expertise. They are both correct in pointing out that this is not the correct way to mount a harness. Mounting the shoulder harness to the floor will apparently crush your spine in an accident. I did some reading up, and then made some changes.

First, the chain is gone. I gutteed the OE belts and used the brackets that bolt them to the floor to secure the lap belts. If they are good enough for Toyota, then that's good enough for me.

Then I exposed the bolt locations for the rear seat shoulder belt guide. I took some measurements and fabbed a harness bar. It locates the shoulder harnesses properly.

It also will keep large objects contained in the rear area.
Side note: I realize that it is no longer possible to have passengers in the rear seat. That is the price I pay for front seats with harnesses. Besides, my 75lb german shepherd does not share well anyway.

 

[kling-on]

i dont mean to stir up s*** here and im no expert on the subject... but from my experience with baja bugs, that is not a safe way to mount the seat belts, and could cause serious back injuries

i think its supposed to be just below straight back from where the seat belt go through or over the seat back

maybe someone smarter will chime in

I had heard that Master crafts frame is at the correct level to mount belt to the floor on rigs not useing full cages

I put a bar in my cage for em and the kiddos love it as a grab bar

I also had mine floor mounted before in 3 roll over (offroad mind you) at slow speed no problems

 

[All Four]

I had heard that Master crafts frame is at the correct level to mount belt to the floor on rigs not useing full cages

I also had mine floor mounted before in 3 roll over (offroad mind you) at slow speed no problems

That would make sense to me given the harnesses were provided by MC as well. Oh well.

I like that bar. I was going to do something similar, but took an easier route.

Thanks for the input