Get youself a Remflex intake/exaust gasket also to make up and diffrence in the header. I did my 1973 2F swap a year ago no problems.
F to 2F conversion questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 93TucsonCruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
After I replied I went to McMaster-Carr looking at thread callouts and I see what you were referring to, length. I don't think this old tooling guy is ever going to adapt fully to metric. Too used to thread callouts as 1/2-13 X length I guess. But thank you anyway for pointing out the valuable parts of this installation. I will discuss it with the mechanic. I would really prefer to do this job myself, just don't have the place or equipment to do it. I do not have a straight edge here so I could only check the pieces with a 24" level and am pleased with how flat they are. Would still like to have some KopperKote though.
Hi Jim, I checked the alternator this morning, had a picture of the existing unit, which works just fine, and then took the second picture of the unit that came with the 1983 2F. The only difference I see is the appearance that the connections are rotated about 90* on the newer unit. But the plug and related "posts" appear to be the same orientation, size, etc. Just rotated relative to the mounting pivot and adjusting bolt.
So I get a call from the mechanic. There is a problem with my clutch. Research on Mud shows clearly what the problem is, they installed the clutch disc backwards! This is my "expert" Land Cruiser restoration mechanic. Although in truth the expert only does the restorations and generally runs the business and directs the two mechanics. I'm just sick over this as I have no confidence whatsoever in these folks anymore, too many issues, too often. And of course the guilty mechanic acts like I did something. I guess I did, I drove it and then I took it back. I have never been happy with the operation of the clutch, thought the rattle was a bad throw out bearing and supplied a new Koyo for this engine swap only to find out it isn't the bearing.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The rattle could also be clutch disc with loose coil springs.
Correct disc uses rubber isolators in place of coils. Quiet & unbreakable.
Correct disc uses rubber isolators in place of coils. Quiet & unbreakable.
It turns out that two years ago, early in the 15 months of work getting it registered, that when the flywheel was re-surfaced they cut it too thin and this allowed the clutch disc springs to contact the flywheel attach bolts. I cringe at what they are going to do to "correct" the situation since too thin is too thin. Regardless, I am pretty much done with this mechanic. Everyday for the past week it has been only a new excuse to stop work. Today he says the rear main seal looks old. This motor supposedly only had four months of service. Not sure how it is determined that the rear seal looks old, but a new one down here is another $90. Just nuts. I am beginning to fear that I have bought yet another pig in a poke. I know that on last Wednesday when they called about the flywheel/clutch issue, the other mechanic is holding my fuel pump and complaining about it. He is pointing to some little hole on the side of the pump and saying something I didn't understand. I have been running for a year on this pump with no issue. I bought a "new" pump a few months ago when chasing the bad carburetor float. It was nowhere near the quality of the Toyota pump, was not the problem and I put the old pump back on. I just drove to Quito and around town and to the shop with no issues so I have no idea what he is talking about, but it was another "stop work" item. I took the other new pump over the next day. I queried him about the sequence of assembly, bell housing, flywheel, clutch. He confirmed. So I commented that the motor mounts could be installed with the bell housing attached, the engine installed and then the rest of the stuff connected while we wait for the flywheel issue to be resolved. That was Friday at 3:00 and he made it clear I didn't need to come back until he called my wife. So I knew nothing else would happen Friday and then this morning it is yet another stop work issue. My grandson has a birthday in late June, maybe I'll get it back by then. But so far three days has turned into a week with no completion in sight.
Curious about the rubber isolators. This clutch was a "kit" from CCOT. The pressure plate is Aisan, not sure about the disc, but it does have springs, which is what I have always seen on a 3 finger clutch.
Curious about the rubber isolators. This clutch was a "kit" from CCOT. The pressure plate is Aisan, not sure about the disc, but it does have springs, which is what I have always seen on a 3 finger clutch.
Checking the FSM there is no mention of minimum dimensions for the flywheel. They only direct for a total indicator readout of the planar condition of the flywheel clutch disc surface. Nothing about minimum thickness. Since I didn't know anything about Land Cruisers two years ago and just automatically mentioned/requested re-surface of the flywheel I'm not sure how a machinist would know what amount could be removed. And I'm not sure how much experience a mechanic would have to have to know in advance of re-installing the flywheel to stick the bolts with lock strips into the flywheel and then mount the clutch disc to see if there was interference. Easy to say in hindsight. I mention it here in case someone else is installing a new clutch. Check first as I think it would be very difficult to see after the bell housing is in place.
Day 12 of the 3 day swap estimate. Wife called the shop and Jose says it has been a PITA to install this motor. Something about it didn't fit the first time. Now he is having a dipstick tube made. I knew that what came with the motor wasn't right but hoped my F tube and stick would work. I see that there is a different number for the tube between the two engines but that the dipstick carries the same part number. I know they are in different locations but rather surprised that it required a different number. Anyway, last Friday (one week ago) Jose made it clear I didn't need to come back until he called that it was done. Today he has invited me to come over in the afternoon to see what has been done. I will do that. Everything I have researched indicated a pretty easy swap, I'll post up what "issues" they had besides the flywheel which wasn't related to the swap, just needed to be "corrected." The seller of the engine has the flywheel and clutch that were on the engine. This was in a 1983 FJ60 with the non-USA 5 spd transmission. Since the starters interchange, can I "assume" that the flywheel is interchangeable? Probably a diaphragm clutch unit as opposed to my 3 finger unit. So if I went that route I understand I use the flywheel, disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and release arm with my 3 spd bell housing. Is that correct? I think I would prefer to find a 4 spd complete setup, but those are hard to find here. I think I paid $320 for a bell housing with no covers two years ago as mine was found to be cracked.
Okay, the rig is put back together (interior, new speaker boxes) and I have turned my attention to the engine compartment. Installed my Redline hood supports and pulled the lower radiator hose to drain as it had only water in it. Put in two gallons of coolant, one gallon of water and put some 50-50 in the overflow bottle. Now it was time to check the timing and dwell. I consult the 2F FSM and find some interesting information. For non-USA it says plug the vacuum line and set the timing to 7* at 950 rpm. In the "general" section at the top of the tune up chapter it says for non-USA the idle speed is 650 and the idle air adjuster at 690 rpm. This along with 41* dwell, no range, just 41*. The old F engine was 38-41* dwell at 550 rpm. So I'm a little confused regarding setting timing, which generally I advance a little more than the 7* (on the old F anyway). Is the "intent" to plug the vacuum, raise the idle, adjust the timing, plug the vacuum back in and then dial down the idle speed? Thanks.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Set the timing whenidling at or below 650 RPM, vac hose disconnected just to be safe. After timing and dwell is set, adjust idle speed & mixture to preference.
Thanks Jim, just the "regular" old setup then. That is what I did and it is running so smooth, really a big difference to the old F. Not like installing a V8 or anything, but much stronger and smoother and as anticipated the 3 spd transmission is really not a big deal. Once moving, 2nd and 3rd are just fine. Thank you for all your help and advice through this. If I get some sunshine tomorrow I will take a couple of pictures showing the complete new setup. These pictures were taken last Friday afternoon as we were closing in on my leaving with it. I was looking at my radiator shroud today and note that it is indeed offset to one side. I'm not sure what problem they ran into but they said it wouldn't fit. It is a 2F shroud which meant the F water pump didn't push the fan far enough forward to nest inside the shroud.
