Enigmas M101 camping trailer (1 Viewer)

[Enigma]

My build thread...sorta, as I didn't built any of it. Just picked up my M101 (which I bought a couple years ago and have only used for garbage runs) from Jason at Cruisin Off Road. I requested him to fab up a lid and tailgate for my trailer so I could remove some things from my 81 which I have been keeping packed to the rafters.
I need to paint all the new parts up after I primered them up this evening, and get some paint on the trailer as well finally. The PO had started to strip it for some reason and I have yet to finish what he started, or start what he didn't finish...
So the lid is on and just now need to move my RTT off the 81 and onto the trailer. Be nice to get of that brick up there.
I had Jason leave the frame across the tail gate to keep things stiffened up, but the brace is also removable should I ever have need of accessing something large through the tailgate one day.
It has 3 adjustable legs to keep the tent rocking to a minimum (when things get frisky) that store nicely up out of the way for transit. I'll be sealing up the tailgate and lid to keep dust out as much as possible.
I had Jason also add in a 2" receiver on the back and a mount for the spare tire on the front of the trailer.
Future plans are to add some brackets fore and aft of the fenders for storage of fuel or whatever. And one of these days some kind of storage system inside, but for now it will be packed with action packers.
I'm thinking of trying to paint match it with whatever colour my 81 is, which is not OEM.

 

[Enigma]

Spare tire mounted

 

[greentruck]

Yeah, the painting. I hate painting stuff, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Some serious sandblasting might be a good place to start. Your M101's finish is in much rougher shape than ours was.

Like the mods. If I ever do a tailgate, it'll be like yours, with a brace across the top that can come out for bulky loads.

 

[ntsqd]

I'd see if I could find someone to soda/walnut shell/corn cob blast it (ask any local hot rod shop about it) rather than sand blast it if you're going to go that route. Sand never really completely leaves, it will dribble out of nooks and crannies for years. It also impinges silicon into the metal, which makes paint adhesion more difficult. Not that I'd expect a mil trailer to have the problem, but sand also puts enough heat into the metal to warp thinner panels.

I've found with our off-pavement tent trailer that I can use the tongue jack to level the trailer against the rear landing legs to take some weight off the suspension and make it very stable. I double-side taped (3M VHB tape) a circular bubble level on the trailer where I can see it while working the jack. I'd suggest that the front leg be exchanged for a burly version of the typical trailer tongue jack. I usually jack it up level fore/aft, set the rear landing skids on the ground, tilt the tongue a little low, secure the rear legs on the ground, and then jack back up to level. If I guess good I can also get the side to side level from how I set the rear legs in one shot. Almost takes longer to describe the process than it does to do it.

What are the three capped tube bosses on the one side of the lid for?

 

[Enigma]

Bracing where the hinges are bolted.

 

[Brentbba]

Nice start! Jason does good work. He fabed up a very nice ladder/jerry can holder for my rear bumper a couple of years ago.

 

[Phil in BC]

Definitely a nice start. I second the soda blast comment, definitely the way to go.
Jason did all the bar work on my truck as well. His work is better than awesome. Great guy too!

 

[Enigma]

Got the tent off the roof of the 81 and mounted on the trailer now. All set up for a week of tenting at a family reunion.

 

[Enigma]

Need to do try and remove some mildew stains on the ten t from keeping it up on the roof of the truck all winter. Trailer lid opens and closes so much easier now with the weight of the tent on it, and still opens up easily with the tent deployed as well.

 

[Enigma]

As for cleaning a RTT, this guide seems to cover all the bases:

http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/resources/tentcare/index.html

Rooftop tents are made from heavy duty, durable materials and are designed for a long life of hard use. Despite this, there are certain measures you should take to keep your tent in top shape and to maximize its life span.

On a day to day basis, you should take care of your roof top tent as you would any tent. First, never pack it away wet. If circumstances require that you put the tent away wet, open the tent back up and let it air dry as soon as possible. This will greatly decrease the chance of having mildew accumulate on the tent, and will increase the life of the tent material.

Rooftop tents are made from heavy duty, durable materials and are designed for a long life of hard use. Despite this, there are certain measures you should take to keep your tent in top shape and to maximize its life span.

On a day to day basis, you should take care of your roof top tent as you would any tent. First, never pack it away wet. If circumstances require that you put the tent away wet, open the tent back up and let it air dry as soon as possible. This will greatly decrease the chance of having mildew accumulate on the tent, and will increase the life of the tent material.


Many tents, such as the Eezi-Awn tents are actually treated with a fungal retardant, however, it is still a good idea to follow the above rules.

The night before loading up our Defender 110 into a container at the end of a nine month trans-African expedition, we were caught in a heavy rainstorm. The schedule of the freight ship necessitated that we had to pack the tent away wet, where it would remain within a container for the next 4 months. To say that cleaning the tent when we got home was a chore would be a gross understatement. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.



ZIPPER CARE

The most common item to fail on a tent is one of the zippers. This comes from use in dusty extreme environments. It is hard to keep mud and dust away from the zippers, so the best thing to do is add some lubrication. Bees’ wax is a tried and true lubricant used in countless safaris in the African bush. It is available in most organic supermarkets like Whole Foods or Wild Oats. Just buy a small block and rub it on the zipper both while open and closed. This should greatly improve the operation of the zipper, and dramatically increase its service life. If mud and dirt does get ground into the zipper, clean it with a damp cloth and then re-lubricate.



GENERAL CLEANING

To get rid of the dust and general day-to-day grime that comes with constant use, brushing the outside of the tent with a stiff bristled brush or vacuuming it will usually do the trick. If your tent needs more cleaning than that, or you want to get years worth of accumulated dirt out, start by brushing or vacuuming the loose dirt off. Mix 1 cup of Lysol all-purpose cleaner to 1 gallon of hot water. Using a sponge, wet the tent. Brush it off again and then rinse it off with cold or warm water. Allow the tent to dry completely in the sun. The PVC rain fly and tent cover found on most roof top tents can be washed with the same solution of Lysol and hosed or sponged off.



MOLD AND MILDEW REMOVAL

One problem inherent with rooftop tents is that in wet or damp conditions, you frequently have to put the tent away wet. The combination of a damp tent and water-proof travel cover makes a perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew. If the mildew takes hold, it can stain the tent and giving it a maliferous odor!

In some cases, the stains can get so bad, that it may seem as though the tent is a lost cause. But fear not, there is a simple way to recover from this situation.


First open the tent up and brush it with a stiff bristled brush or vacuum to get the loose dirt off. Then wash the tent with a solution of 1 cup Lysol general purpose cleaner to 1 gallon of hot water. Sponge this solution on to wet the tent and then brush in with a stiff brush (as listed above).

Then, rinse the tent off with a solution of 1 cup lemon juice and 1 cup salt to a gallon of hot water. Use enough salt/lemon solution to get all the Lysol out. Leave the tent to air dry in the sun. This last step is very important, as it will promote the loss of mildew stains. Once the tent is completely dry you will be amazed at how new it looks!



WATERPROOFING

Uncoated cotton canvas is waterproof in the same manner that traditional wooden boats are waterproof. The cotton fibers swell when they get wet much like wooden planks do. This seals the weave. Synthetic (nylon) canvas like rip-stop canvas does not swell, but gains water resistance from its construction, and waterproofing from being impregnated with other synthetic materials. Since roof top tents are made from synthetic canvas, the washing procedure above will destroy the waterproofing coating. After washing, you should re-apply waterproofing. To waterproof rip-stop canvas you need to coat it with a synthetic waterproofing material.


Some materials will also impart UV protection. Suggested waterproofing solutions are Aqua-Tite Waterproofing, 303 Fabric Guard, or other waterproofing for synthetic canvas. These are usually available in camping stores. Apply two coats of the waterproofing agent, at 90 degrees to each other. This will provide the best protection.

If you care for it correctly, a roof top tent can last for decades, providing comfort and security in all conditions.
we were caught in a heavy rainstorm. The schedule of the freight ship necessitated that we had to pack the tent away wet, where it would remain within a container for the next 4 months. To say that cleaning the tent when we got home was a chore would be a gross understatement. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.


Rooftop tents are made from heavy duty, durable materials and are designed for a long life of hard use. Despite this, there are certain measures you should take to keep your tent in top shape and to maximize its life span.

On a day to day basis, you should take care of your roof top tent as you would any tent. First, never pack it away wet. If circumstances require that you put the tent away wet, open the tent back up and let it air dry as soon as possible. This will greatly decrease the chance of having mildew accumulate on the tent, and will increase the life of the tent material.


Many tents, such as the Eezi-Awn tents are actually treated with a fungal retardant, however, it is still a good idea to follow the above rules.

The night before loading up our Defender 110 into a container at the end of a nine month trans-African expedition, we were caught in a heavy rainstorm. The schedule of the freight ship necessitated that we had to pack the tent away wet, where it would remain within a container for the next 4 months. To say that cleaning the tent when we got home was a chore would be a gross understatement. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.



ZIPPER CARE

The most common item to fail on a tent is one of the zippers. This comes from use in dusty extreme environments. It is hard to keep mud and dust away from the zippers, so the best thing to do is add some lubrication. Bees’ wax is a tried and true lubricant used in countless safaris in the African bush. It is available in most organic supermarkets like Whole Foods or Wild Oats. Just buy a small block and rub it on the zipper both while open and closed. This should greatly improve the operation of the zipper, and dramatically increase its service life. If mud and dirt does get ground into the zipper, clean it with a damp cloth and then re-lubricate.



GENERAL CLEANING

To get rid of the dust and general day-to-day grime that comes with constant use, brushing the outside of the tent with a stiff bristled brush or vacuuming it will usually do the trick. If your tent needs more cleaning than that, or you want to get years worth of accumulated dirt out, start by brushing or vacuuming the loose dirt off. Mix 1 cup of Lysol all-purpose cleaner to 1 gallon of hot water. Using a sponge, wet the tent. Brush it off again and then rinse it off with cold or warm water. Allow the tent to dry completely in the sun. The PVC rain fly and tent cover found on most roof top tents can be washed with the same solution of Lysol and hosed or sponged off.



MOLD AND MILDEW REMOVAL

One problem inherent with rooftop tents is that in wet or damp conditions, you frequently have to put the tent away wet. The combination of a damp tent and water-proof travel cover makes a perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew. If the mildew takes hold, it can stain the tent and giving it a maliferous odor!

In some cases, the stains can get so bad, that it may seem as though the tent is a lost cause. But fear not, there is a simple way to recover from this situation.


First open the tent up and brush it with a stiff bristled brush or vacuum to get the loose dirt off. Then wash the tent with a solution of 1 cup Lysol general purpose cleaner to 1 gallon of hot water. Sponge this solution on to wet the tent and then brush in with a stiff brush (as listed above).

Then, rinse the tent off with a solution of 1 cup lemon juice and 1 cup salt to a gallon of hot water. Use enough salt/lemon solution to get all the Lysol out. Leave the tent to air dry in the sun. This last step is very important, as it will promote the loss of mildew stains. Once the tent is completely dry you will be amazed at how new it looks!



WATERPROOFING

Uncoated cotton canvas is waterproof in the same manner that traditional wooden boats are waterproof. The cotton fibers swell when they get wet much like wooden planks do. This seals the weave. Synthetic (nylon) canvas like rip-stop canvas does not swell, but gains water resistance from its construction, and waterproofing from being impregnated with other synthetic materials. Since roof top tents are made from synthetic canvas, the washing procedure above will destroy the waterproofing coating. After washing, you should re-apply waterproofing. To waterproof rip-stop canvas you need to coat it with a synthetic waterproofing material.


Some materials will also impart UV protection. Suggested waterproofing solutions are Aqua-Tite Waterproofing, 303 Fabric Guard, or other waterproofing for synthetic canvas. These are usually available in camping stores. Apply two coats of the waterproofing agent, at 90 degrees to each other. This will provide the best protection.

If you care for it correctly, a roof top tent can last for decades, providing comfort and security in all conditions.
. Just buy a small block and rub it on the zipper both while open and closed. This should greatly improve the operation of the zipper, and dramatically increase its service life. If mud and dirt does get ground into the zipper, clean it with a damp cloth and then re-lubricate.



GENERAL CLEANING

To get rid of the dust and general day-to-day grime that comes with constant use, brushing the outside of the tent with a stiff bristled brush or vacuuming it will usually do the trick. If your tent needs more cleaning than that, or you want to get years worth of accumulated dirt out, start by brushing or vacuuming the loose dirt off. Mix 1 cup of Lysol all-purpose cleaner to 1 gallon of hot water. Using a sponge, wet the tent. Brush it off again and then rinse it off with cold or warm water. Allow the tent to dry completely in the sun. The PVC rain fly and tent cover found on most roof top tents can be washed with the same solution of Lysol and hosed or sponged off.



MOLD AND MILDEW REMOVAL

One problem inherent with rooftop tents is that in wet or damp conditions, you frequently have to put the tent away wet. The combination of a damp tent and water-proof travel cover makes a perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew. If the mildew takes hold, it can stain the tent and giving it a maliferous odor!

In some cases, the stains can get so bad, that it may seem as though the tent is a lost cause. But fear not, there is a simple way to recover from this situation.


First open the tent up and brush it with a stiff bristled brush or vacuum to get the loose dirt off. Then wash the tent with a solution of 1 cup Lysol general purpose cleaner to 1 gallon of hot water. Sponge this solution on to wet the tent and then brush in with a stiff brush (as listed above).

Then, rinse the tent off with a solution of 1 cup lemon juice and 1 cup salt to a gallon of hot water. Use enough salt/lemon solution to get all the Lysol out. Leave the tent to air dry in the sun. This last step is very important, as it will promote the loss of mildew stains. Once the tent is completely dry you will be amazed at how new it looks!



WATERPROOFING

Uncoated cotton canvas is waterproof in the same manner that traditional wooden boats are waterproof. The cotton fibers swell when they get wet much like wooden planks do. This seals the weave. Synthetic (nylon) canvas like rip-stop canvas does not swell, but gains water resistance from its construction, and waterproofing from being impregnated with other synthetic materials. Since roof top tents are made from synthetic canvas, the washing procedure above will destroy the waterproofing coating. After washing, you should re-apply waterproofing. To waterproof rip-stop canvas you need to coat it with a synthetic waterproofing material.


Some materials will also impart UV protection. Suggested waterproofing solutions are Aqua-Tite Waterproofing, 303 Fabric Guard, or other waterproofing for synthetic canvas. These are usually available in camping stores. Apply two coats of the waterproofing agent, at 90 degrees to each other. This will provide the best protection.

If you care for it correctly, a roof top tent can last for decades, providing comfort and security in all conditions.

 

[AussieRedneck]

I dig the leveling stands. Probably going to copy that

 

[Enigma]

I dig the leveling stands. Probably going to copy that

They work, but I might one day d&t the bottoms and added a threaded extended pad as you are limited within the pin hole dimensions as it is now.

Also a regular type trailer jack would be handy, as the trailer when loaded with camping gear isn't quite so easy to manually lift off the pintle as it once was.

 

[ntsqd]

I use the tongue jack to slightly lift the trailer off the tires after setting the rear stabilizers. Which are the flip-down telescoping type found on the typical tent trailer.