Engine Oil survey
- Thread starter DTAYLOR
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- Thread starter
- #22
Very good info...
I agree with the M1 push.
Other than the cost, why would it make sense to use a lesser oil for the initial 500, 1000 miles?
I had considered that I would need to do one quick (within 150 miles) oil change just to get all the overhaul dirt and small trash out.
Even though the cost of M1 is a bit high, why would I not want it first touching the bearing surfaces rather than a lesser oil?
I may feel differently if this had not been such a costly job. The more I spend on it the more I want to protect it.
Thanks,
DTaylor
I agree with the M1 push.
Other than the cost, why would it make sense to use a lesser oil for the initial 500, 1000 miles?
I had considered that I would need to do one quick (within 150 miles) oil change just to get all the overhaul dirt and small trash out.
Even though the cost of M1 is a bit high, why would I not want it first touching the bearing surfaces rather than a lesser oil?
I may feel differently if this had not been such a costly job. The more I spend on it the more I want to protect it.
Thanks,
DTaylor
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Just put in some Rotella dino
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The theory is that synthetic oil lubricates too well and wont allow the rings, etc. to seat, break in properly, so dino is run for the break in period. I run dino for the first 3-5000 miles on a new motor, with a couple of changes, then switch over.
It's an old wives tale.
Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1® in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:
* Acura RDX
* Aston Martin
* Bentley Amage and Bentley GT
* Cadillac CTS, CTS-V, XLR, XLR-V, SRX and STS and STS-V
* Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
* Chevrolet SSR
* Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
* Chrysler 300C SRT-8 and Crossfire SRT-6
* Cobalt SS
* Dodge Ram SRT-10
* Dodge Charger SRT-8, Magnum, and Viper
* Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
* Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles
* Mercedes SLR
* Mitsubishi EVO III
* Pontiac GTO
* All Porsche vehicles
* Saturn Red Line
* Viper SRT-10
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
See my other posts. Keep in mind that synthetic is not magically slicker than mineral oil, what it is more stable so it requires less additives. The primary benifit of synthetics is you can run them for longer change intervals than mineral oils, and they will provide better protection at extremes (they hold up to high temps better, i.e. 400f+ like turbo bearings). As I have advised several times in the past, if you are going to change your oil at less than 5,000 mile intervals, don't waste your money on Synthetics.
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That's why the post started with, "The theory is", probably would have been better as "The theory was". If I were to build a motor today I would still run dino for the first couple of short changes, old habits die hard and I prefer to use short changes to flush out debris and assembly lube. Running Mobil 1 on short cycles would be a waste of good oil.
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- #30
Cary,
I understand your point and initially it makes sense. Considering the hot temps for long periods of time in North Texas, the dust, traffic, and a host of other factors it simply makes more sense to me to do overkill and not be the least bit concerned about things like oil viscosity failure or lubrication based issues. Aircraft engines use synthetic AND change regularly. Double protection.
After all, aren't most of us here on this site going to lean the direction of overkill on , most every other part of our rigs? Why not use the same logic with the heart (engine) of it?
Shell Rotella T Syn 5w-40 is $15 a gallon at Wally World. Paid $30 for six quarts of Mobile 1 5W-30 on sale. Took the Mobile back and suffered a trip to Wally World.
Rotella from now on. This is an engine with the reputation of 300K good fun miles. Mobile 1 over the life of that engine is going to be a huge cost. Unless you plan 10K+ change intervals, hard to make a financial case for using this stuff.
Nay
Rotella from now on. This is an engine with the reputation of 300K good fun miles. Mobile 1 over the life of that engine is going to be a huge cost. Unless you plan 10K+ change intervals, hard to make a financial case for using this stuff.
Nay
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It depends on how you look at it, the way I see it is, it costs about the same to change mine with Mobil 1 as it would if I took it to the dealer and it gets better oil. The 1FZ is very easy on oil, if your not doing extended oil change intervals, your wasting money on any synthetic.
I use the lowest temp expected as the selecting point, the high side is always off of the chart. The international Toyota chart recommends 15W down to 14F, I doubt that my truck will ever see less than about 25F so it gets a steady diet of 15W-50 Mobil 1.
On the first oil change I used a large filter, produced a noticeable startup chain rattle, switched to the small filter and it went away. The 1FZ runs clean, produces very little trash, so I don't see the need for the big filter.
I know Texas gets hot, so does AZ, NM, the middle east, south america, the tropics, and other places the 80's are regularly operated. For the 80, which does not have a turbo, you are not going to encounter 400f+ temps that would cook mineral oils. 15w-40's like Chevron Delo provide more than adequate protection with its HTHS of 4.4 (per Chevron). In fact it's HTHS is higher than most 40 weight synthetics which are in the 3.6-4.0 range. HTHS is short for High Temperature High Shear and is a measure of an oil's protection at places like cam and rod bearings.
50 weight oil for an 80 is overkill. It serves no purpose other than to decrease gas mileage. Even the German Manufactures that used heavy oils for years (in part to eliminate the black death that early multiweights caused) have settled on the lightest oil possible that will provide and HTHS of 3.5 or higher (what they consider the minimum protection required for the most extreme conditions). This ends up being a heavy 30 weight/light 40 weight most times.
You cannot compare aircraft engines to auto engines. Different design, different operating conditions, use of leaded fuel vs. unleaded, and service intervals that are set by hours.
It seems the real key is change intervals. 7,500 miles is the high end of annual miles for my rig, so I'm looking at one oil change per year. Maybe a new filter at six months. So while the price doesn't really matter to me, a 5W-40 synthetic (Group III ) for $15 buckets in a gallon size is ideal since I can see temps @ 20 below. Plus people here have reported time and time again that the 1ZFE loves Rotella T.
But are miles the only issue? We aren't brought up to believe in one oil change a year, but it sure fits my schedule well
Nay
But are miles the only issue? We aren't brought up to believe in one oil change a year, but it sure fits my schedule well
Nay
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I'm using Valvoline Max life 5W-30 and change every 3K. see my new post on oil pressure . Should I be running something heavier?
- Thread starter
- #38
Cary,
I'm not comparing the engines, I'm comparing logic and reasoning. An aircraft engine is used for long periods of time, like I want to use my 80. There is simply never a concern about how hot it is here or there, etc.
My real point is that if I err on the side of caution and overkill, that is what most of us want. i don't want to have to deal with the idea of viscosity breakdown, or any other lubrication related issue.
I would rather use my energy trying to figure out which mod I want to do next.
I'm not comparing the engines, I'm comparing logic and reasoning. An aircraft engine is used for long periods of time, like I want to use my 80. There is simply never a concern about how hot it is here or there, etc.
My real point is that if I err on the side of caution and overkill, that is what most of us want. i don't want to have to deal with the idea of viscosity breakdown, or any other lubrication related issue.
I would rather use my energy trying to figure out which mod I want to do next.