egr pipe / ? using bolts in place of studs

[jwest]

I'll be changing the egr pipe, gasket, ferrule, and nut. I'll remove the cooler and pipe as a unit making it easier to separate the two outside the rig.
Before re-installing, I'll connect the two together, but once in, I expect the greatest difficulty will be in tightening the egr pipe nut to the cooler with such little room for movement.

Any tips for doing this?
Should i make a tool for tightening the nut by cutting or bending an open end wrench or have you gotten by with something you already had? I've used a vise grip and that was a pain in the ass.

Also, the studs ( #21 in the pic ) originally used to connect the egr pipe to the exhaust manifold have been replaced with bolts. Should studs be used in this situation at all times?

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[Blue60]

I just did this, though my engine was off the frame and easy access. To increase the odds for success and make the job your facing easier here is what I would consider.

(1) After you get the pipe out of the cooler, use a dremel tool with wire brush and clean the threads inside the cooler and the facing where the ferrule will seat. The cleaner the better. Mine was really rough with corrosion.

(2) Do the same with threads on the nut. Also, wire wheel the end of the egr pipe where the nut "slides" as it threads into the egr cooler. This will help you more easily start threading the nut into the egr cooler and minimize chance of cross threading. Use antiseize for the same reason and to aid with the next disassembly.

(3) Sears sell a "beaked" adjustable wrench in two sizes. The larger opens enough to do the nut, and reaches into tight areas easeir than regulear adjustables. It was a very good tool for doing what I needed to do. From underneath the truck you should be able access the nut and get the wrench on the nut with sufficient leverage to tighten the nut and seal the ferrule.

(4) I changed out my worn/corroded stud with new studs and antiseize. One came out nicely with the stud removal tool, the other broke off and required drilling and tapping. I would prefer studs, so I only need to get one wrench or socket into that area to tighten things up versus holding the bolt head and tightening up the nuts.

Good luck and have fun...

Cheers,

Dave

 

[jwest]

Dave,

Thanks for the thorough reply. Cleaning the threads and ferrule seat is a good idea.
I'm looking into the beak jaw adjustable vs. shortening a cheap harbor freight type wrench.
I don't see access as a problem but i'm concerned with the length of the adjustable limiting range of movement.
Seems a crowfoot might work too.

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[Landpimp]

I cut down a cheap open end wrench(32mm but I used something SAE that was close), there is NO room to turn the damn nut.

not awake yet but I see no real reason not to use bolts, if I recall the way it works you don't need nuts as the bolt will snug down into were the stud went. that said I replaced mine with studs.