Drivetrain Problems

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Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Threads
63
Messages
455
Location
Panama City Beach, Fl
Ok, here's my latest problem, long story but should give all the info I know. I don't know the official names for some parts but will try.

Last fall, replaced right Birf (to include larger drive flange).

No problems. Drove it for miles and miles.

This winter, felt like front end was locked (I have no mods), even had the back end come around on some ice in my driveway, and occasionally i get some wheel hop when turning.

Around Feb, started getting a noise out of the right front end, eventually found the brass insert in the right front outer axle was worn and replaced it, worked fine.

In early April, I noticed some differential fluid underneath the front end. When underneath, it looked like it had coated all the way back to the transfer case. I added a quart and drove to my mechanic.

Here is where it gets crazy.

Shop manager told my mechanic that I there was another sound from left (there was some clicking or popping but only at extreme wheel turn). The machanic tore apart my left wheel, found a few bearings (the top and bottom in the knucle) that needed replaced. He also thought there was too much play in the Birf (old left one).

I had him swap Birfs (not knowing the new right one was bigger and drive flange needed swapped also) We put back together and it was stuck in right front and rear drive...put on lift and only the right sides would spin, not right rear/left front or vice versa, pulled super hard to right.

Pulled back apart and noticed birfs were different sizes, put back on original sides and it drives straight now, but.........

(also replaced all seals and bearings in the front axle)...only charged 5.5 hours of shop time as well, so I can't complain! Anyway, to the but..........

Now it feels like it is locked in front wheel drive, if you let go of the wheel in a turn it straightens out, if you hit a bump with one front tire, it barks when it lands. Basically feels like I have front drive only and that the front diff is locked (which I don't think is possible?) Only other symptom is that at idle, flat ground, no brake is needed to keep from crawling forward.

Only other maintenance is that in January we replaced brake pads and had rotors turned.

I'll send a Sam Adams :beer: to anyone who can help me!

BTW, the shop thinks it is the center diff (side of the transfer case?) that is causing the problem, but I still don't see how that explains the front end being so bound up and straight now?

Thanks again for any help.

John
 
There are plenty of simple tests you can do to help diagnose your problem.

One that comes to mind is to jack up the front end with tranny in park, t-case in hi. Try to spin one front tire. It should spin easily, and cause the other front tire to spin in the *opposite* direction.

Curtis
 
Sounds like your viscous coupler has seized.. that is located in your transfer case... Do a search on that, a lot of info....
 
I have to go pick it up, but will do the lifted front, lifted one wheel check when I get her home. One other piece of diagnostic info, we took off the front driveshaft and it worked just fine.

I am thinking (from what I have read on here about viscous couplers) that the VC has seized and that I should remove it. Does it have to be replaced? I drive sometimes a 1000 miles a week, mainly interstate as well as use it as my farm beater, can removing the VC cause any problems down the road?

Thanks for your help.
:beer:


John
 
Thanks a ton.

John
 
Long story short...betweeen kids end of school year projects being due tomorrow and wife needing help with horses....damn mothers day....wont get to Cruiser until tomorrow, but will post results by 9 pm!

Thanks for the help

John
 
Latest news...

With front driveshaft out drives perfect. On lift, spin front wheel other wheel spins opposite.

I think that means front axle is good (should be, it is basically rebuilt), and problem is in t-case.

I talked with my mechanic today and he didn't realize there was a VC in the t-case, so now he also agrees that it may be seized.

We are going to do the surgery on Sunday afternoon in my barn.

If anyone thinks I am heading down the wrong path, let me know.

Thanks,

John
 
If anyone thinks I am heading down the wrong path, let me know.

No, I think you're on it.

There are similar driveway tests you could perform to verify the center is seized/locked, but given your symptoms it's probably not a waste of time to dive in.

Make sure your mechanic knows exactly what does/doesn't have to come off to get to the VC; IIRC, it's not all that "invasive". Again IIRC, "MikePL" did a writeup that's maybe in the FAQ.

Curtis
 
Just out of curiosity what would make VC seize?
 
Just out of curiosity what would make VC seize?

:meh:

Seems like we hear about only one or so a year here, so a very small sample size.

I don't recall any common denominator, like "So, I was running two different size tires..." or anything like that.

Curtis
 
Thanks for your help. I did find an excellent write up - with pictures which is good for me - about removing the VC.

Looking at some other VC write ups, I wonder how many actually still have their VC in their truck?

Interesting on the tire thing, I got this Cruiser from my Step-Dad about 7-8 years ago. He had tires that were (if I remember correctly) 285 rear, 275 front, no reason, he is a cheapo and probably just replaced two at a time. It wasn't until A year and a half ago that I wore them out and replaced them, all to 275. Not a big difference, but over 5 years or so and 50,000 miles......
 
Thanks for your help. I did find an excellent write up - with pictures which is good for me - about removing the VC.

Looking at some other VC write ups, I wonder how many actually still have their VC in their truck?

Interesting on the tire thing, I got this Cruiser from my Step-Dad about 7-8 years ago. He had tires that were (if I remember correctly) 285 rear, 275 front, no reason, he is a cheapo and probably just replaced two at a time. It wasn't until A year and a half ago that I wore them out and replaced them, all to 275. Not a big difference, but over 5 years or so and 50,000 miles......


I would highly recommend you put the CDL switch in if you're removing the VC. Being in snow country you will not like a full time (unlocked) rig in high range (transfer case). With no VC and unlocked axles, all it takes to become immobile is to have one wheel slipping. And to conveniently lock the transfer case with your '94, with out a CDL switch, you have to be in low range. - My .02.
 
Interesting on the tire thing, I got this Cruiser from my Step-Dad about 7-8 years ago. He had tires that were (if I remember correctly) 285 rear, 275 front, no reason, he is a cheapo and probably just replaced two at a time. It wasn't until A year and a half ago that I wore them out and replaced them, all to 275. Not a big difference, but over 5 years or so and 50,000 miles......

That could very well be the cause of it.
 
This is how it all starts...fixing one thing, then someone gives ya a better idea....

Just so you all know, my 94 is completely stock...until this weekend...hehehe

Ok, so looking at Slee, I get the CDL switch and install in the dash to the plug that is present, then I do the 7 pin mod and I get full control over locking regardless of Low or High, right?
So this winter I push the switch on snowy days, and on the farm, I put in low and push the switch as well, right?

I don't need locking hubs yet do I?

My next goal if this all works out is to find some armor for the front end!, I currently am using a 2x10 as a bumper thanks to a tree stump hiding in some grass.
 
This is how it all starts...fixing one thing, then someone gives ya a better idea....

Just so you all know, my 94 is completely stock...until this weekend...hehehe

Ok, so looking at Slee, I get the CDL switch and install in the dash to the plug that is present, then I do the 7 pin mod and I get full control over locking regardless of Low or High, right?
So this winter I push the switch on snowy days, and on the farm, I put in low and push the switch as well, right?

I don't need locking hubs yet do I?

My next goal if this all works out is to find some armor for the front end!, I currently am using a 2x10 as a bumper thanks to a tree stump hiding in some grass.

Hey John,

Welcome to the addiction! :flipoff2: And no, stay away from locking hubs, they're for part time rigs. Yours is full time, remember? Sorry to hear about that stump. Armor will help, but it won't make it foolproof, so ya still gotta keep your eyes open.:rolleyes: :cheers:
 
Alright, I have the front lifted and on jack stands, getting ready to dig in.

Last Diagnostic, lifted one side, N/N, wheel turns less than ten degrees. (I did it in park and High and same thing, I am getting the diagnostics confused so i do them all the same.)

So....I am good with tools, have changed oil and spark plugs, brakes, do the maintenance on the tractor, etc. Want to make sure I am not in over my head. I have never torn apart a car to this level though so you can understand my tentativeness.

Is this all wrench stuff or should I get a hammer gun for my air compressor?

Thanks for all your help, I'll keep this thread posted with my screw ups.
 
Too late, completed it yesterday and drives like a champ. Little clunky goring R to D as expected, or if I goose the gas at when idleing.

Used the job as an excuse for a new set of Craftsman metric wrenches and some ramps as well!

I'll post pics if anyone interested.

Thanks for everybodies help.

John
 
Too late, completed it yesterday and drives like a champ. Little clunky goring R to D as expected, or if I goose the gas at when idleing.

Used the job as an excuse for a new set of Craftsman metric wrenches and some ramps as well!

I'll post pics if anyone interested.

Thanks for everybodies help.

John

Tada!

Good job. Is the VC obviously seized?

Always interested in pic's.

Curtis
 

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