Differential Shaft Pin Broken

[bgray]

Thanks Pin_head. Now that I better understand the workings of the axles and differential (including c-clips, spacer block, etc), I tend to agree with you. The seals weren't leaking and I wasn't picking up any bearing noise, though I guess one could argue it was time as they were the stock bearings and seals. ...as well, it's one less mystery for me on my rig. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[cuencanolenny]

I was able to get the pin out using the method shared by Shark56. Basically drilling a hole through the head of the shaft pin bolt to use as a pilot to drill a hole into the broken section of the pin, followed by an extractor to remove the pin. I had to pick up a few parts, including a right angle adapter for my drill and a 12" x 1/8" drill bit; and I also had a welding shop drill the bolt as I don't have a drill press. The pin came out real easy once I had the pilot hole, as it only had a few threads left on the broken piece, so I suspect Pin_Head's recommendation w/ a welding rod would have worked great as well (w/ less prep). See broken pin below and the drill set up.

Thanks for all the help. I'll follow this post with another set of questions on the lateral play I'm getting in my axle.
View attachment 691605View attachment 691606View attachment 691607

Referencing the attached picture, add a break!. When I put the wrench on the head I double checked, as we usually do, to make sure the wrench was on well. When I went to re-position my hand expecting to use some force, the wrench just fell down. I would suggest I might have been able to undo the screw with my fingers. I was able to use a pick to turn/unscrew the next section. The last portion is still in the spacer pin. I have seen a suggestion for using compressed air to shoot it out, wish I had that option. Is Toyota the only place to purchase a new pin? How much else should I replace?

 

[Steamer]

Did you read PinHead's posts in this thread? The welding rod trick? You might try striking the shaft down on some hardwood or a chunk of brass to dislodge it. I don't see how air would do anything as you can't get behind it. I pulled mine out yesterday and the pinion shaft pin turned hard all the way out. It was bent a bit on the tip. Just the portion that goes into the pinion shaft. It looked like the shaft was trying to rotate and was about to shear the end of the pin off. I guess I caught it just in time. I dressed it up and it's back in there temporary but I have a new bolt on on order.
Several vendors here sell used parts. You could post up in the classified's wanted.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Thanks Steamer, can't import a used part. Just recently (last Monday) I received my new master cylinder and wheel cylinders. In the package should also have been a set of studs, cone washers and nuts from an Ebay vendor. His package made it to my forwarding company, but they didn't come down because they are used parts. Aaarrgghh. It is Saturday and so my welder is not available, actually I'm not sure if he has a portable unit. At this moment I am waiting for some JB weld to set up holding a small magnet I found on the end of a scribe to a short arm hex wrench to see if that will pull it out. There just isn't anything simple on these rigs is there?

 

[Steamer]

This place is cheaper than SOR.
Try this link. Pinion Shaft

 

[cuencanolenny]

I got it!

Now I want some opinions from gearheads. In design if I'm using a pin for an index I want it hard so that it breaks as a bent index pin is no index at all. In this case the pin does not index. It appears that the pin cracked, whether from rotational force in the diff or poor heat treating, I'm not sure. But, the screw threads are fine. What if I used a piece of mild steel rod of appropriate length and retained it with a screw? Thoughts please.

 

[cuencanolenny]

I got it!

Now for the opinion of gearheads. In design if I'm using a pin for an index I want it hard so that it breaks as a bent index pin is no index at all. In this case the pin does not index. It appears that the pin cracked, whether from rotational force in the diff or poor heat treating, I'm not sure. But, the screw threads are fine. What if I used a piece of mild steel rod of appropriate length and retained it with a screw? Thoughts please.

2degreessouth, more fun with Land Cruisers than you ever imagined possible.

 

[Steamer]

Now I want some opinions from gearheads. In design if I'm using a pin for an index I want it hard so that it breaks as a bent index pin is no index at all. In this case the pin does not index. It appears that the pin cracked, whether from rotational force in the diff or poor heat treating, I'm not sure. But, the screw threads are fine. What if I used a piece of mild steel rod of appropriate length and retained it with a screw? Thoughts please

Well I’m no gearhead but I’m guessing that the pin’s purpose is to merely keep the cross shaft from falling out and there should be hardly any stress on it. The only stress put to the pin that I can see happening is explained in Jim C’s post # 5.


I don’t see how your two-piece pin design would achieve anything other than to give you grief on removal. Just like having a broken pin.


You mention indexing, but I don’t see where a slight shaft re-positioning due to a bent pin would influence the performance of it. Whether or not the shaft shifted in or out a little, or if it rotated slightly. The gears that ride on it wouldn’t be affected.


I would simply replace the pin and the shaft if needed and be done.


Just my inexperienced thoughts but I also await a gearhead’s thoughts.

 

[cuencanolenny]

I agree, a noodle will still do the job. Of course if I am unsuccessful tomorrow finding the pin I could fabricate (possibly raw stock) cut to a length that won't be far from the end of the screw. In the worst case, it wouldn't be too hard to remove, unless of course it breaks deep like the current one did, but obviously that can happen with a factory pin. Then I will order the new part from Sonny at FJ parts and have it sent down with my next package. That will cost me draining the diff, new gasket and a little time to replace. At least I have a plan. Everything is apart, new bearings and seals installed, gasket surface clean. Backing plates and diff cover off to powder coat in the morning and then a hardware store run for some new fasteners. Then it will be thumb twiddling time waiting for the powder coating.

 

[Steamer]

Sounds like a plan. Good luck with it. I'm getting mine back together. I have new bearings and seals installed and a Lock-Right standing by waiting for a replacement axle to arrive.
My new pin arrived. I placed the order on noon Thursday and found it on my doorstep a few hours ago. Just their standard shipping. I was quite surprised. Shaft pin

 

[cuencanolenny]

Sounds like a plan. Good luck with it. I'm getting mine back together. I have new bearings and seals installed and a Lock-Right standing by waiting for a replacement axle to arrive.
My new pin arrived. I placed the order on noon Thursday and found it on my doorstep a few hours ago. Just their standard shipping. I was quite surprised. Shaft pin


View attachment 1730075

My local parts dealer recognized the pieces as I pulled them out of the baggie and reached around and retrieved a new one from the bin. He also had new drain plugs, I had found new aluminum washers at my bolt store. I picked up a pitman arm puller as well so I should be able to remove the joint from my center link which I have a Cruiser Outfitters Fuji link kit for. Otherwise it will be Wednesday before I get my backing plates and diff cover back from powder coating.