"D" ring bumper mounts....what the story?

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2badfjs

2badfjs

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i was wondering why would you want a welded D-ring mount on a bumper,even if it's welded on the front and back side of the bumper,on a hard pull, how much of a chance does it have to pull away from or break off the bumper.
or even still, a pull from an angle, how is this gonna effect the bumper as far as twisting the mounting surface up.

the other option: make the d-ring mount part of the whole bumper mounting system. as in attacthing it to the frame and coming thru the bumper.

just to peaz my mind , what are your thoughts?

jim
 
Well, considering the tensile strength of a properly executed weld, I don't think that you will pull the tab out unless the metal it is welded to gives way.

In case you weren't aware, 1" of weld on a 60XX welding rod has 60,000lbs(70,000lbs on a 70XX rod, etc) of tensile strength. Think about how many inches of weld you have and it shouldn't be an issue.
 
Mine are made from 1" thick stock and are welded to plates bolted to my bumper and my rear crossmember. My mounting bolts are my weak points, not my welds. I have put mine to the test many times and at extreme angles in the past 10 years and no failures yet.
 
I have a set welded to 3/8" plate bolted on my ARB with an identical backing plate using 4 3/8" Grade 8 bolts. The weakest link of the install is the 3/16" bumper material. I forget the calculations but the bumper base material will deform and fail before the bolts or D-rings.

117-1784_IMG.jpg
 
I have been welding D rings to the face of 3/16 bumpers for a few years now. A lot of rigs/bumpers.

Have yet to see one fail in any way. Or deform the bumper. I try to mount the rig near some sort of support on the other side of the face it is attached to.

I don't particularly like D rings as attachment for a hard snatch strap recovery anyway. Just too much shock loading and potential carnage going on. I prefer a pintle hook SOLIDLY attached to bumper AND frame for that purpose.

For a more routine snatch or any winch out, you will never over tax a properly welded D ring mount.


Mark...
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
Well, considering the tensile strength of a properly executed weld, I don't think that you will pull the tab out unless the metal it is welded to gives way.

In case you weren't aware, 1" of weld on a 60XX welding rod has 60,000lbs(70,000lbs on a 70XX rod, etc) of tensile strength. Think about how many inches of weld you have and it shouldn't be an issue.
Click to expand...

The tensile strength of that weld is pounds-per-SQUARE-inch though. Not just a normal width bead ran for 1". This would be if you welded a full inch x inch, which is impractical, it's just stating the metal used in the welding rod is 60,000 psi steel, so you wouldn't want to use that welding rod to combine a piece which is using higher grade steel. Also the 60,000 psi number has nothing to do with the actual strength of the weld, just the metal used during the weld was of that strength.

:cheers:
 
whatabout this,,, you make the D rings and mounts out of some sorta unbendable unbreakable undeformable something that will never ever come off in any pull ever, then, oops the mounting tabs that are welded on the bumper to bolt it to the frame break, so, you make the whole bumper and tabs out the the same unbreakable stuff and you tear the frame horns off,,, when will the over engineering crowd get with the program??
 
mabrodis said:
The tensile strength of that weld is pounds-per-SQUARE-inch though. Not just a normal width bead ran for 1". This would be if you welded a full inch x inch, which is impractical, it's just stating the metal used in the welding rod is 60,000 psi steel, so you wouldn't want to use that welding rod to combine a piece which is using higher grade steel. Also the 60,000 psi number has nothing to do with the actual strength of the weld, just the metal used during the weld was of that strength.

:cheers:
Click to expand...

If I remember my calcs right, a 1/4" fillet, 1" long (60XX electrode) is good for 1800 lbs in any direction. This does not factor in the strength of the metals being joined however.
 
trainrech said:
If I remember my calcs right, a 1/4" fillet, 1" long (60XX electrode) is good for 1800 lbs in any direction. This does not factor in the strength of the metals being joined however.
Click to expand...

Sounds believable, without doing the numbers myself...however, I would state that as the maximum a 1/4" fillet weld 1" long could hold would be 1800 lbs. Since there are many factors why it would fail easier than that, but if everything was perfect and the limiting factor was the steel's tensile strength itself...then it would hold 1800 lbs...

FYI, normal MIG welding wire (Lincoln's L56 for example, not the flux-core stuff) is 80,000 psi tensile strength.
 
Jim, use 3/4 bar as the mount for the bumper to the frame, then make it extra long and pass it through the bumper with a hole for the D rings.
 
Mace said:
Jim, use 3/4 bar as the mount for the bumper to the frame, then make it extra long and pass it through the bumper with a hole for the D rings.
Click to expand...

Thats what i did on the bumper i just finished.
i was just wondering if there was and advantage or dis-advantage to welding to the face of a bumper.
i could build my bumpers to mount to the factory mounts,but why, when it could be much more reliable and safer.

just like a tow hook, its bolted to the frame. so why not make the d-ring mount part of the bumper mounting system.
seems like it would be so much safer.
 
Safer and better, but the other way is not bad..

The cool thing about the stock bumper mounting points is that they are riveted on. Almost everyone can remove rivets, and, if you want to go back to stock. You can bolt the pieces back on.
 
2badfjs said:
just like a tow hook, its bolted to the frame. so why not make the d-ring mount part of the bumper mounting system. Seems like it would be so much safer.
Click to expand...

I'm no expert on tesile strengths but one thing that sold me on your design Jim is the mounting system you used. I wanted something that I could use that was strong and provided peace of mind when I used it. There's a reason Toyota put their tow hooks on the frame not the bumper.

If people want a vanity bumper just make it w/o d-ring mounts and cut a slot for the hook to the frame like the stock ones.

Just my 2¢

btw have I mentioned that I love my new bumper?

:cheers:
 
Would it be kosher to weld the D-ring tab just to the outer surface of the bumper (as opposed to both the outer and inner surfaces)? Admittedly not as preferrable to passing it through the bumper and using it as the bumper mount, but....

Timoss
88 fj62 TLCA
 
Timoss said:
Would it be kosher to weld the D-ring tab just to the outer surface of the bumper (as opposed to both the outer and inner surfaces)? Admittedly not as preferrable to passing it through the bumper and using it as the bumper mount, but....

Timoss
88 fj62 TLCA
Click to expand...

see, i dont know. thats what scares me about a weld on like that.

:eek:
 
as a general rule, yes it is kosher.

Lots of people do it that way with no major issues. But for me. I like things strong. Cause I am morelikely than not, going to do something stupid with it.
 
Mace said:
as a general rule, yes it is kosher.

Lots of people do it that way with no major issues. But for me. I like things strong. Cause I am morelikely than not, going to do something stupid with it.
Click to expand...

jason, can i use this in my sig line?

Q: like things strong. Cause I am morelikely than not, going to do something stupid with it.
 
lol
fair game, but you have to put the space between the "more" and the "likely"
 
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