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kim

kim

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Joined
Jun 6, 2003
Threads
123
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3,637
Location
Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/287699980.html

I went to look at this truck yesterday, it was sold. I was surprised to see 'no rust' in a Canadian ad and I was sceptical.

Anyhow, he had a second parts truck, 'no rust' he said. I went to look and the guy was patching the rear wheel wells, inner and outer. he was using drywall corners on the inside. Also, the place reeked of gas, the truck was a diesel. I asked why the gas smell, 'oh, he says, and proceed to spray the engine with gasoline. Of course it is dark in this 'carport' and he grabs a trouble light which he bangs on the hood of the truck. I've had enough at this point and couldn't leave fast enough.

The guy appeared to be crazy as hell.

Did anyone here buy the advertised BJ 60?
 
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once upon a time I purchased a cruiser with no rust....or so I thought...one year later the blisters started to show through the paint....and now I have no rocker panels and my wheel wells are suffering from the cancer too :(
 
I know that feeling too well. When I bought my truck I checked all the usual spots, some had a little rust but overall it was good. 1 year later the bull sht body work started to bubble up above the rear wheels. I have fixed 1 side (properly) and once I have time I'll do the other but what I found while fixing it just pissed me off. The PO told me that she took it to a body shop because it had minor rust there and she was happy with the result, the bastards sanded down the rust, welded a piece of metal that closely (but not identically) matched the body line, over the remaining rust. After that, good ol bondo and some paint. So now I did it properly, cut at least 1" above the rust, 1 1/2 years later and no issues.
 
Fantom said:
I know that feeling too well. When I bought my truck I checked all the usual spots, some had a little rust but overall it was good. 1 year later the bull sht body work started to bubble up above the rear wheels. I have fixed 1 side (properly) and once I have time I'll do the other but what I found while fixing it just pissed me off. The PO told me that she took it to a body shop because it had minor rust there and she was happy with the result, the bastards sanded down the rust, welded a piece of metal that closely (but not identically) matched the body line, over the remaining rust. After that, good ol bondo and some paint. So now I did it properly, cut at least 1" above the rust, 1 1/2 years later and no issues.
Click to expand...

If you want to check a vehicle for bondo, go to crappy tire and by a roll of that plastic magnet stuff. Then all you do is stretch out about a one foot section and put one end on the truck and pull the other end all around the body of the truck. When it drops off then you know you have bondo, fiberglass or aluminum there. Then you can inspect that area a bit more closely. It helps keep the sellers a bit more honest or red faced. I like to watch there faces after they have told me that there has been no accidents or rust issues.:grinpimp: Its great fun with used car sales men.
 
I don't mind a little filler to smooth out a repair.

But when you didn't do it yourself it makes me nervous. I have used a slight bit of filler in my repairs, but I know my rust was removed, new metal welding in. Then sandblasted the welds and chemically treated then POr-15'd.....after a little filler over the build primer.
 
Me too! I saw it on an aviation forum, so I modified it and posted here, I did not know the author... LOL so true about forums though. Lots of info, might be wrong, but lots of info.
 
I want to fix the rust on my truck, but i have no money to do it...my rockers are shot and my rear wheel wells are slipping away to the cancer too. Any ideas of what I could do to fix it with spending little money? I had thought about just cutting the rockers right off, but i dunno what to do, any ideas?
 
Once we know what you have for tools we can recommend what route to take....


For rockers the easiest choice(if you have a mig welder available) is to cut them out and weld in 2x2, or 2x3 tube steel 1/8 thick. Box the ends and seal it up.

For the rear, the best choice is cutting out the metal and welding in new steel.

But if I was broke and wanted to clean it up, I would buy the pathfinder flares from a junkyard(a few threads in the 60 section on it) and put them up to the vehicle, tape around them and then remove them. The lower area I would sand with 36 grit. Even over the rust knocking off the remander. Then paint with POR-15. Also do this on the inside to seal it up. As the rust generally IMOP comes from the seams and inside. Then install the pathfinder flares over top to hide it all.

Before closing the inside spray a waxy film over everthing to help slow down any more rust.

Thats a cheap rear wheel fix.

Other cheap fix for the rockers;

sand the crap out of them with 36 grit, make them super rough. Where there are holes paint por-15 inside the rocker. On the outside paint it all with POR-15. Let it cure. Then scuff it up and clean it. Then take a painted piece of body metal. Curve it to cover the holes and glue it on with sheet metal structural epoxy. Then take the POR-15 resto grip filler and smooth out the edges.

After spray the rocker with etch coat primer(another por product) and then rhinoline the whole rocker.

Then on the inside of the rocker(thru rubber hole cover on the inside and thru the top under the sill plates) spray a waxy corrosion inhibiting oil in there. Making sure you get everywhere.

That should hold back the rot and look good for a while.

The paint on the these old 60 is weak and you can get rust right underneath it. SO keeping the truck clean and waxed will keep the body rust to a minimum too.

I also would seal up the pathfinder flares so water could not get trapped. Or allow drain holes.
 
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