Cracked Oil Pump Housing / Bracket - Looking for Recommendations

[Snow Wagon]

Hello Forum,
I'm doing a Water Pump / Timing Belt replacement and found the Oil Pump Housing / Bracket cracked where the Smaller Nut secures the Alternator.
This is the nut that you use a 12mm socket on, not the 14mm bolt or nut.
The crack is about 1" long on the top (above the bolt) and 1” long on the bottom (below the bolt).

The SUV is at 250k and this is the 2nd or 3rd WP / TB.
Previous one was done at 150k (not by me...).
Previous WP / TB tech definitely did not use a Torque Wrench.
Some tighter than they should be and some looser.

So the Alternator is held on by:
- (1) bolt w/ 14mm head torqued to 29 ft lbs
- (1) nut w/ 14mm head torqued to 29 ft lbs
- (1) nut w/ 12mm head torqued to 11 ft lbs (now with cracked bracket...).

This is also right beside where the TB tensioner mounts.

It's a ton of hours to replace the Oil Pump Housing.
You have to drop the oil pan and the FSM has the engine removed from the SUV in order to do so.
I found a video where someone with a 4.7 Tundra just jacked the engine up, loosened the steering rack, and somehow managed to get the oil pan out.
It looked pretty awful.

Due to the fact that this is the smallest and lowest torque of the (3) Alternator fasteners, do you think a thorough clean and patch with JB Weld would hold up?
Would it be possible to weld the Aluminum in place?
Not sure how much heat would be needed and if there's any seals nearby that I should worry about getting damaged.

Any suggestions / recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
Tom

 

[Snow Wagon]

Same area, just a little further away...

 

[excessive]

i had a very similar problem w/ my oil pump., only mine was the big 14mm lower alternator bolt that was wrecked by some gorilla in the past.
I am sorry to say that the only true resolution is to replace the oil pump, and I opted to do that with the engine out of the truck. i also took care of a ton of other things when the engine was out. Nothing about the job is hard, just very time consuming.

 

[Snow Wagon]

Hello excessive,
Thank you for the response.
If it was mine, I’d be pulling the motor and replacing the oil pump.

Talked to the owner this morning.
Replacement isn’t in the budget.

I’m going to clean it up, JB weld, wait for it to cure, then torque it to 75% of spec with thread locker (stud).
The stud appears to have thread locker from the factory.

Then when the alternator goes back in, I’ll torque that specific nut to 75% of spec and use threadlocker. The nut typically doesn’t get thread locker.

I’m hopeful this will hold up for a while until replacement is in the budget.

Thank you.
Tom

 

[Snow Wagon]

Here's a couple of post-JB Weld repair pictures.
Thoroughly cleaned the area with acetone prior to the JB Weld.

After 24+ hours to cure, Torqued the stud to 105 In Lbs w/ High Temp Thread Locker (goes into the block).
Torqued the alternator nut (12mm socket) to 105 In Lbs w/ Medium Thread Locker.
No signs of the JB Weld cracking after the job and initial test drive were completed.

Enjoy.
Tom