Cooling Issues... What have I missed?

[Roadnoiz40]

Our FJ40 is a '76. It has the electric winch partially blocking the air flow to the radiator. Using a replacement radiator from Hawk in Mesa. It was in stock, about $240 out of pocket. New OEM water pump. Crane electronic ignition on otherwise stock 2F. Vintage air 134a AC. I believe the t-stat for ours was a 192 F from SOR. This one keeps the vehicle at the \ | | / first bar of the normal range. Running AC in AZ daytime on the 101 freeway at 65 mph, the temp will climb to the second bar which is the top of the normal range (hot) We have rid the system of the plastic fan with the built in clutch. The vehicle currently is using a 16" flex fan with a 1 1/4" extension on the nose of the water pump. Not saying this is the thing to do, but we are experimenting. This seems to be acceptable operating temps for the engine under these conditions. I have never known an FJ owner to have a "cool" running vehicle in AZ during the summer time. We tried the radiator "water wetter pink cooling" stuff, which made no difference in the operating temps.

 

[Texican]

FYI if the truck is not gurgling, which is the coolant boiling in the system after you kill the engine, then it is not to the dangerous point yet, 210 is safe, in fact the newer GM's with computer controlled electric fans, they do not come on until 215-225
That said all my inline 6 'Yotas run very cool, in the 190-210 range even with 105 ambient temp we have here in Texas .
Butch

 

[Landpimp]

just thinking? how about a new radiator cap?

 

[Torskin]

I would certainly expect a radiator workshop with a good reputaation such as Natrad here in Victoria Australia, to be able to fully examine and diagnose a radiator and tell you if 1) It is blocked/damaged and 2) it is fixable/repairable or needs to be replaced. Also from experience, mechanic workshop usually do not have the knowledge and/or equipment to troubleshoot and repair a radiator.

Thats my 2 cents worth Australian , or in US currency 1.4 cents

 

[Torskin]

Ok, i've just had a look at the Gregory's Land Cruiser FJ series petrol 1975-84 for the FJ40,45,55,60 4230cc (2F) manual and these are the susgestions:

Engine Overheating.

1. Broken or slipping fan belt: adjust or renew belt
2. Loss of coolant: Determine whether coolant loss is due to overflow, external or internal leakage.
3. Obstructed air passage through radiator core from front to read: Blow out obstructions from rear to front with compressed air or water.
4. Faulty Thermostat: Check and renew.
5. Poor Circulation: Check and rectify. check that bottom radiator hose is not collasping.
6. Incorrect ignition timing : check and reset ignition timing.
7. Low engine oil. Check and renew/top up
8. Engine tight after overhaul: check and if ok, stop engine and allow to cool off.
9. Restricted muffler or tailpipe, accompanied by loss of power: remove restriction or renew components.
10. Incorrectly valve timing: reset valve timing
11. Incorrectly adjusted or draging brakes: Check and retify by adjustment or renew of components.
12. Fan fluid coupling (where fitted) faulty: Check and renew.

 

[arizona78]

Replaced the radiator cap with new from CCOT a few months back. No change. According to the 2F engine manual, it's the correct pressure...

I started down the troubleshooting path for the emissions system via the 1978 Emissions System Manual since engine timing could be a factor. The Spark Control loop was listed as a potential source of running hot or overheating. This controls the advance or retard of the engine dependent on gear selection and engine temp. Found that the diaphragms (sp?) for advance or retard on the distributor are blown. At idle, the system is not egaged, so it wouldn't be easily detected without actually testing the advance/retard.

Don't know where to find a new distributor, so I'm probably go to get remanufactured from Checker or Napa. Around $110 for those curious.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I don't know if it matters but I've run my '76 4 degress advanced for better power and no effect on the cooling system. I also have run in 105 degree heat for 4-6 hours at a time with grades etc and no overheating. I did replace the radiator last year due to a leak with a cheap 3 core radiator-it would run warm on long hills at speed. I just swapped back to a new 4 core custom heavy duty unit (thanks Mark Warner and Chad Davis) and it runs really cool now. I do not think your ignition is the source of your probems. If you have a solid fan, it isn't the fan clutch. Are you certain the radiator is good? I would look there before anywhere else. Replacing the distributer is fine, but I doubt it will solve your problems.

The Jim C. of Carb fame does custom distributor rebuilds-you might call him instead of the unknown quality of a parts store reman. (Not that I'm reccomending you swap your distributor)

edit: One other thing to try-Take it out and run it until it's really hot, then turn on your heat with the fan full blast. If the temp comes down or normalizes you don't have enough cooling capacity, and that means you need a new radiator for sure. Good luck, frustrating problem and you'll have to spend $$ to fix it.

 

[Bruno AZ]

I have the same problem with my 80FJ40 here in Chandler, Az. I can run all day long streets but only 15 minutes or so on the freeway@ 65mph and she starts to climb. I get off the freeway and all is normal after a couple of blocks. I have a new complete w/4core cooling system. Everything oem toyota except the 4core.

All that said. I have 2 radiators, Fan blade, Fan clutch, Dist and a ton more stuff off a 78 FJ40 that you are more than welcome to stop by and borrow, bolt on and trouble shoot. You can take a hard look at my 80 and see that I have replaced everything. I have been trouble shooting this cooling issue for a few months now and so far no luck.

I am new to this board but this is my 5th fj40 and even with this cooling problem she is by far the best one I have ever owned. I drive it every single day. approx 30 to 50 miles. I would like to add that this board is just outstanding. I have come to depend on the new threads of info everyday.

 

[Torskin]

parts

If your looking for new parts like CARBURETTOR, DISTRIBUTOR,
FUEL PUMPS & FUEL INJECTION COMPONENTS, check out

http://www.nardek.com.au/landcruiser.htm

Remember the prices are australian so if you want to do a currency conversion go to

http://www.xe.com/

and do it there

 

[arizona78]

So, I went out and looked at the radiator to see how many cores it has. Radiator is 3 core... How much cooling difference between 3 and 4 core? What is OEM? I'm thinking this is the issue now as it does overheat, but runs hot. 3 core must be marginal... Shouldv'e looked at this earlier...

 

[arizona78]

That would be "does NOT" overheat, but runs hot. BTW, who has the best 4 core radiator? Not really interested in a $$$ aluminum radiator, but would like to know the best good quality replacement...

BTW, sorry for wasting the time by not looking at the number of cores. Really didn't occur to me as I didn't replace the radiator and I knew it was new. But I have learned a few things...

 

[Torskin]

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer. The guys around here say ccot radiators are good http://www.coolcruisers.com . Don't know myself as i live in Australia and can most likely get one from around here some where. Check out there radiator page here http://store.yahoo.com/coolfj40/radfj19thru1.html

 

[Landpimp]

stupid question? how does one tell how many cores?

 

[Torskin]

get a very bright light source on one side of the radiator and look the the radiator on the other side. then you will see an munber of pipes running vertically. the total number counted is it total cores it has

 

[1Fine40]

Found this spot on the web for a radiator.....might be what you need for a really decent price!!
http://radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?ac=Y...UISER&submodel=ALL+MODELS&engine_size=L6,4.2L
The bottom unit is the one that would probably work for you. A friend has one, and they are really great quality. No affiliation, just an observation!

Cheers!