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Coolant Leaking from Tranny

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by ArmyFJ, Feb 24, 2007.

  1. ArmyFJ

    ArmyFJ

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    Well I am have been trying to find how my coolant is leaking from my tranny but I cannot figure it out. The coolant level is dropping from the radiator (slowly). And I am seeing it drip out from where my tranny oil usually leaks and it is still bright green. Any ideas how it is getting there? I don’t see it leaking on top of the tranny or around the sides but I really cannot figure it out. I have and SM465 with a TPI 350.

    Matthew
     
  2. tlcruiser66

    tlcruiser66

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    Do you have a rear heater? If you do it's probably developed a leak in the hose or heater core.

    Kevin
     
  3. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Could be leaking out of the front heater core too.

    It's not leaking from the trans.

    With an auto with a integrated radiator trans cooler it's theoretically possible, but not at all with a manual.
     
  4. jeffery_1965

    jeffery_1965

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    Hey Matthew,

    Making a guess here, but if the leak is coming from the bellhousing area or some place close to that it might be a freeze plug leaking back there?

    Just a thought,

    Jeff
     
  5. cardinal fang

    cardinal fang

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    Freeze plug, or head crack leaking down into the bell housing.
     
  6. ArmyFJ

    ArmyFJ

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    Well I have looked behind the engine and its a little wet on the drivers side between the valve cover and the head but not really so much between the head and the block. I am wondering if its just in a place I cannot see above the bell housing. And now it looks like the rear main might be leaking too. Is there a freeze plug between the bell housing and the block? Fun. Perhaps a rebuild is in order. Thanks for the help guys.

    Matthew
     
  7. Degnol

    Degnol

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    There are two freezeplugs on the firewall side of the engine. One on the block and one on the back of the head. You can just barely see the boss on the head for that freezeplug.

    GL

    Ed
    Swapin'motors 016.jpg
     
  8. mrmouse88

    mrmouse88

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    My suggestion would be to get some of that UV die, from napa and the light and tip that into the coolant system and run it for a bit and see where it starts to glow from.

    Just my .02 cents
     
  9. ArmyFJ

    ArmyFJ

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    Thanks for the UV idea. I like that. I will try that here in the future. Ed. Mine is a Chevy 350. I see you have a Toyota engine. Is it set up with freeze plugs similarly?

    Matthew
     
  10. Degnol

    Degnol

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    :doh: Oh s***, my bad. No, I don't thing there are freeze plugs on the firewall side of a SBC, but then again, I have no idea.:eek:


    Ed
     
  11. theo

    theo

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    Small block Chev has 2 freeze plugs (and galley and cam plugs) behind the bellhousing.
     
  12. ArmyFJ

    ArmyFJ

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    Thanks. Are they easy to do and can you change a rear main with the engine in the vehicle? I was thinking I could pull the tranny w/ bell housing and the t case and get too it from behind. Or is that just asking for trouble?

    Matthew
     
  13. theo

    theo

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    Freeze plugs are pretty easy if you have good access to them - knock the edge with a blunt tool to turn them in the hole, pull or pry out, clean up the hole, spread some liquid sealer on, and drive new plug in straight. New freeze plugs sometimes "weep" for a few miles, then "rust up" and seal.

    The cam and galley plugs are harder - the cam plug sits right near the end of the cam so it won't turn sideways in the hole. The oil galley plugs are only 1/2" diameter; if they're pressed in they're a bugger too. Sometimes they are threaded for NPT.

    The rear main seal is 1-piece that is held in place by a retaining plate with 4 or so bolts. I can't remember for sure, but I think it is a piece of cake with the tranny out.

    Replace the throwout bearing while you're in there. HTH
     
  14. theo

    theo

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    I just realized if your block is older than 1986 you'll probably have a 2-piece rear main seal. Different procedure altogether. Drop the pan, remove rear main cap, rotate upper seal half out, etc.

    I read 350 TPI and assumed it was a later engine.