Choke issues (1 Viewer)

[eTeam]

Hi everyone. I’m a new 60 owner, therefore new to MUD. I’m loving my 60 so far, having a great time tinkering, improving, driving, etc. I do have an issue that I need some help with.

Ever since I picked it up, it has been a struggle to start cold. I’m in Iowa, so it hasn’t been really all that warm, so most mornings have been 25-40 degrees the last few weeks. Today however was the first day since I’ve had it that has been 70 degrees, so I wanted to see if it did any better with warmer temps. No change on a cold start. I’m talking cranking for probably 60 seconds or so, intermittently, choke on, then off, then halfway, pumping gas, no gas, gas to the floor, trying to find the right combination. The only thing that seemed to work was keep cranking. So I did some investigating and I think I’ve found the issue, just need help solving it.

I figured there was a choke issue. Once it’s running, it runs very well, but the choke knob creeps out eventually to where the light comes on, though the choke is not actually engaging, ie it doesn’t affect how it runs. Annoying, but curiosity made me wonder if it was related to my cold starting issue. There always seems to be a decent amount of outward pressure when you push the choke back in.

Today I took off the air cleaner to see what the choke was actually doing. The following pic of the carb is with the choke knob pulled out as far as it would go…

Even a noob like me knows that the butterfly should be laid flat with choke engaged, but obviously it’s not. The part I have circled seems to be stopping it from moving any further. I just don’t see any way to adjust it. I did spray the retention spring (in the circle) with some WD40 to see if it would let it turn further, but didn’t seem to help. Thanks I’m advance for helping me save my starter and battery!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hi everyone. I’m a new 60 owner, therefore new to MUD. I’m loving my 60 so far, having a great time tinkering, improving, driving, etc. I do have an issue that I need some help with.

Ever since I picked it up, it has been a struggle to start cold. I’m in Iowa, so it hasn’t been really all that warm, so most mornings have been 25-40 degrees the last few weeks. Today however was the first day since I’ve had it that has been 70 degrees, so I wanted to see if it did any better with warmer temps. No change on a cold start. I’m talking cranking for probably 60 seconds or so, intermittently, choke on, then off, then halfway, pumping gas, no gas, gas to the floor, trying to find the right combination. The only thing that seemed to work was keep cranking. So I did some investigating and I think I’ve found the issue, just need help solving it.

I figured there was a choke issue. Once it’s running, it runs very well, but the choke knob creeps out eventually to where the light comes on, though the choke is not actually engaging, ie it doesn’t affect how it runs. Annoying, but curiosity made me wonder if it was related to my cold starting issue. There always seems to be a decent amount of outward pressure when you push the choke back in.

Today I took off the air cleaner to see what the choke was actually doing. The following pic of the carb is with the choke knob pulled out as far as it would go…View attachment 2977373

Even a noob like me knows that the butterfly should be laid flat with choke engaged, but obviously it’s not. The part I have circled seems to be stopping it from moving any further. I just don’t see any way to adjust it. I did spray the retention spring (in the circle) with some WD40 to see if it would let it turn further, but didn’t seem to help. Thanks I’m advance for helping me save my starter and battery!

- the strand wire in the choke cable assy itself can be old stretched and tired ...


- it can be fraying and acting like a spring

- look for cracks in the black casing from inside the truck all the way to the carb butterfly , they do wear out age and time ,

- inside there's a aggressive spring and detent ball pressure , its unlikely if solid the knob would get pulled back in on its owen ?


- u have a choke breaker system on the carb itself too

fyi



- 2 places to start , inspect and verify , DO not throw parts at this it can be several things :


- , do u have a Return Spring like this properly in place inspect and verify this too ? missing this can have a similar but not exactly same effect ?


- report back the above

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[eTeam]

-definitely some cracking in the black cable casing. Looks good coming out of the firewall, but follow the cable towards the air cleaner, and that’s where things get a little crack-y. The silver tube underneath looks intact from what I can see through the missing spots of black casing.

I believe the return spring is present. See pic.

I’m same pic, it’s hard to see, but there is some slack in the end of the cable, but that’s with choke knob in. If I pull it out, that slack is taken up.

I’m not familiar with a choke breaker system, can you give me the cliffs notes?

 

[eTeam]

B

View attachment 2977450



View attachment 2977451

Both those ends seem ok

 

[ToyotaMatt]

B

Both those ends seem ok

there is a adjustment free-play tolerance


it's a clamp on the side of the carb , phillps head set screw


you know what i speak of ?

like a ARM


this :

you can telescope the brass end feral cap in and out to a degree , maybe enough to shut your choke butterfly ?


if u pull it towards the air cleaner say 3-4mm u may close the slack gap

if this is a original choke cable to truck , its absolute 100% stretched a ted at least

 

[eTeam]

I know exactly which screw your talking about, and it looks like I can move it back a little ways. I’ll try that tomorrow to see if it helps.

I just came back inside from messing with it a bit. I can manually manipulate the part I circled in my original post to fully close the butterfly. But it seems I can’t pull the choke knob out far enough to get it closed. Makes me think it’s binding up somewhere, but I traced the cable all the way back through the firewall to the knob, no kinks. I’m wondering if there’s not something inside the metal cable housing, like rust or other gunk, binding it up. Add that to the fact that it’s likely stretched and I bet I need a new cable??

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I know exactly which screw your talking about, and it looks like I can move it back a little ways. I’ll try that tomorrow to see if it helps.

I just came back inside from messing with it a bit. I can manually manipulate the part I circled in my original post to fully close the butterfly. But it seems I can’t pull the choke knob out far enough to get it closed. Makes me think it’s binding up somewhere, but I traced the cable all the way back through the firewall to the knob, no kinks. I’m wondering if there’s not something inside the metal cable housing, like rust or other gunk, binding it up. Add that to the fact that it’s likely stretched and I bet I need a new cable??

PM me ,

i have your NEW OEM cable ,

1 in stock

there on global back order at moment


- YES they rust inside out after 30 years for sure and kink




hope this helps


matt

 

[eTeam]

PM me ,

i have your NEW OEM cable ,

1 in stock

there on global back order at moment


- YES they rust inside out after 30 years for sure and kink




hope this helps


matt

Thanks for all you help Matt! PM on the way.

 

[eTeam]

Replaced cable, choke functioning properly.

While in there I found this…

Found it missing, rather. Last time I drove it the pin must’ve rattled out so the spring was just sitting on that rod, not connected to the linkage. It seems to run ok, I don’t know what that arm/spring does, but can you guys help me find what I need to make it right?

 

[2mbb]

that spring is part of the lever that actuates the accelerator pump. When you press on the go pedal, that rod pushes up on the lever which pushses down on the accelerator plunger which squirts gasoline into the throttle chamber. The spring provides some damping. The rod connects to the lever via the spring. If the spring is not there (or not clipped at the top) then your accelerator pump is not working. The car will idle and run at speed fine, it just won't accelerate like it should. I'm not clear what you are missing. If it is just the washer and hairpin clip you can probably get something that will work at your hardware store. If it is the spring or the plate that pushes up on the lever, you might have to source some used parts.

 

[eTeam]

that spring is part of the lever that actuates the accelerator pump. When you press on the go pedal, that rod pushes up on the lever which pushses down on the accelerator plunger which squirts gasoline into the throttle chamber. The spring provides some damping. The rod connects to the lever via the spring. If the spring is not there (or not clipped at the top) then your accelerator pump is not working. The car will idle and run at speed fine, it just won't accelerate like it should. I'm not clear what you are missing. If it is just the washer and hairpin clip you can probably get something that will work at your hardware store. If it is the spring or the plate that pushes up on the lever, you might have to source some used parts.

View attachment 2987865

Thank you!! It looks like I’m missing just the pin on top, which I can easily replace with whatever, and also the 21873-2100. That appears to be a nylon hat bushing, and of course NLA from Toyota.
I will see if I can find one, if not I’ll put out a wanted thread to see if any other mudders have one lying around.

 

[2mbb]

I think the 21873-21020 is actually a washer (directly on top of the spring) and the "hat bushing" is not a numbered part. The hat bushing keeps the rod centered in the hole on the lever and being some kind of plastic provides some lubrication or non-binding properties...but you probably figured that out.

 

[eTeam]

I think the 21873-21020 is actually a washer (directly on top of the spring) and the "hat bushing" is not a numbered part. The hat bushing keeps the rod centered in the hole on the lever and being some kind of plastic provides some lubrication or non-binding properties...but you probably figured that out.

I’m picking up what you’re putting down. The mistake I am making is trying to put it back together like my picture showed, which probably wasn’t the right way to begin with. Looking at it more closely, I think I can temporarily rig it to work until I find that hat bushing.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

ok

so this is what all is going on :

@2mbb is missing his white nylon HAT bushing / bearing .........


see pics below :


It appears that it does not have a part # or call out # on
The microfiche ?

 

[eTeam]

Exactly. For now, I’ve put a washer where the hat bushing would be, and a new pin on top through the rod. It holds together and seems to be working but it’s a temp solution. Like 2mbb said, it is nylon for a reason, and I have nothing centering the rod in the bracket. If any of you know off hand where I can find this elusive hat bushing, that’d be awesome but I’ll begin my search as well.

Thanks everyone for all your help!!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Exactly. For now, I’ve put a washer where the hat bushing would be, and a new pin on top through the rod. It holds together and seems to be working but it’s a temp solution. Like 2mbb said, it is nylon for a reason, and I have nothing centering the rod in the bracket. If any of you know off hand where I can find this elusive hat bushing, that’d be awesome but I’ll begin my search as well.

Thanks everyone for all your help!!

ONLY a parts carb will have one ?

 

[eTeam]

ONLY a parts carb will have one ?

Looked at my donor truck, it didn’t have one. What it had was the small metal washer and what looked like the original hair pin. It’s hard to say if it has ever been messed with, but no nylon hat washer. But I did steal the hairpin and properly sized washer and placed it in my carb. It ran very well all day yesterday, ~200 miles or so

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Looked at my donor truck, it didn’t have one. What it had was the small metal washer and what looked like the original hair pin. It’s hard to say if it has ever been messed with, but no nylon hat washer. But I did steal the hairpin and properly sized washer and placed it in my carb. It ran very well all day yesterday, ~200 miles or so

ok

i did some digging and i did some thinking :

hypothetical :

- i have a NOS parts Carb , well now i have a NOS hat bushing for u too ..........


- i do not want any money for it .....


- i was wondering what you have in your Teq Cookie Jar to TRADE ME for it ?


- i do NOT make JOKES about my NOS parts ............fyi


- u can PM me if u like ........

 

[eTeam]

ok

i did some digging and i did some thinking :

hypothetical :

- i have a NOS parts Carb , well now i have a NOS hat bushing for u too ..........


- i do not want any money for it .....


- i was wondering what you have in your Teq Cookie Jar to TRADE ME for it ?


- i do NOT make JOKES about my NOS parts ............fyi


- u can PM me if u like ........

View attachment 2990680​

I’ll get back to you on it soon