Can someone double check my brake shoe install
- Thread starter thebigredrocker
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Reviving old thread - wanted to add that my ~7/70 did not have holes on the backing plates for hold-down pins.
I have since replaced the shoes and cylinders with the later renditions, which have holes for pins on the shoes that I am unable to use due to the backing plate not having a hole for them. Im hoping the drums work after im finished rebuilding though! I also placed my springs on the inner side of the drum shoes.
I have since replaced the shoes and cylinders with the later renditions, which have holes for pins on the shoes that I am unable to use due to the backing plate not having a hole for them. Im hoping the drums work after im finished rebuilding though! I also placed my springs on the inner side of the drum shoes.
I think you could just drill holes in the right spot for the pins if you want them. Look and compare at the part numbers and pics to make sure. Do the slots in the new adjusters have a ramp that will help keep the shoes centered?
Hmmm good point. I don’t know if I’m seeing any sort of ramp on the adjusters on either the pre-1970 cylinders or my new ones. Maybe im missing it? It does seem like the new shoes are seated firmly against the backing plate and are generally in the center. I’m hoping they work as they’re supposed to once im done bleeding the whole system.
I notice Coolerman’s 1971 build didnt include pins either: Assembling the Brake Shoes/Springs/Cylinders - https://globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/15C.htm
Thank you
Bringing back this old thread....
I went to install new brake shoes today and noticed that neither wheel cylinder has a slope (both are totally flat in the slot) nor do they have a wide/thin end. I
If I install the brake shoess with the long end of the pad forward (where the pad is longer, and there is less metal showing) on one and the the other shoe with the long end back, it will lock the wheel solid when I put the lugs on and tighten everything down. (The way it is shown in the service manual)
If I install the shoes with the long end forward (again - where there is more pad and less metal) on BOTH shoes (toward the front end), it does not bind up when the lug nuts are installed and they seem to work normally.
I am guessing these are aftermarket cylinders that a previous owner installed but is the shoe placement a problem with both short ends towrds the front of the vehicle.
I went to install new brake shoes today and noticed that neither wheel cylinder has a slope (both are totally flat in the slot) nor do they have a wide/thin end. I
If I install the brake shoess with the long end of the pad forward (where the pad is longer, and there is less metal showing) on one and the the other shoe with the long end back, it will lock the wheel solid when I put the lugs on and tighten everything down. (The way it is shown in the service manual)
If I install the shoes with the long end forward (again - where there is more pad and less metal) on BOTH shoes (toward the front end), it does not bind up when the lug nuts are installed and they seem to work normally.
I am guessing these are aftermarket cylinders that a previous owner installed but is the shoe placement a problem with both short ends towrds the front of the vehicle.
Post some pic's or a more thoughtful description
NEW one that works
OLD one that binds up when turned (basically will turn a few inches then lock solid)
The drums that were on it originally did work but were VERY thin, even the face (where the lugs go through) are much thinner than the correct replacement drums.
This all started when I bought it and noticed the rear end would lock WAY before the front. When I checked the rear brakes, you could spin the wheel with one hand and it would go around a bunch of times. NO drag at all on the rear brakes, I mean 0. So this made us think, okay they are way out of adjustment so why are they locking up so soon.
Seeing the drums were in poor shape I replaced them with new ones. This is when we noticed that once the wheel was bolted on it would only travel about ⅓ - ½ a turn before locking up solid. At frist we thought it maybe the drum but were able to check all the specs and they were good.
The system is WELL bled and the front works great.
OLD one that binds up when turned (basically will turn a few inches then lock solid)
The drums that were on it originally did work but were VERY thin, even the face (where the lugs go through) are much thinner than the correct replacement drums.
This all started when I bought it and noticed the rear end would lock WAY before the front. When I checked the rear brakes, you could spin the wheel with one hand and it would go around a bunch of times. NO drag at all on the rear brakes, I mean 0. So this made us think, okay they are way out of adjustment so why are they locking up so soon.
Seeing the drums were in poor shape I replaced them with new ones. This is when we noticed that once the wheel was bolted on it would only travel about ⅓ - ½ a turn before locking up solid. At frist we thought it maybe the drum but were able to check all the specs and they were good.
The system is WELL bled and the front works great.