- Joined
- Oct 12, 2005
- Threads
- 33
- Messages
- 258
Here's an update for all you folks wanting to know what's been up with Bruce after the failed SI:
Here are the items that caused the SI failure (and my solutions):
- Bad rear wheel oil seal
(Replaced the seals and bearings with a new kit from SOR - also replaced the rear differential cover since my old one had fused solid to the oil plug - while in there I added a new Aussie Locker)
- The bad oils seal had fudged up the brakes
(Rebuilt the driver's side brake - nothing exciting here)
- Bad Driver's side rear shock
(Replaced both rear shocks with cheapie units from Napa - made a huge difference!)
- Rusty-sharp metal bits sticking out from the bumpers
(Removed all of the scrap from the bumpers and the lone remaining bumper cover)
- Hole in passenger side rear fender
(This was fun - I patched and bondo'd it - it's not the greatest body work job in the world, but there's no hole in the finder now. While I was at that I decided to give the Curiser a two-toned paint job, cleaning up the rust from the rear hatch, the front bull-guard, and the driver's side doors - after masking everything off I painted it all flat black - it actually looks really good - I'm still going to paint the bumpers since I've been in a big de-chroming mode.)
- Bad exhaust hangers
(New exhaust from Marty's welding - kept the original down pipes, but cleaned up the cross over and tucked it right up by the frame - new single, high flow cat, and a flowmaster muffler. Sounds pretty good, and definately feels better on the road - it finally feels like it's not completely strangled above 3500 rpm)
Verdict: big thumbs up for everything so far - I need to adjust the valves and I want to figure out if i can reduce the valve tick that Bruce has always had. I also want to figure out if i can remove the air pump with out negatively affecting anything else.
Here are the items that caused the SI failure (and my solutions):
- Bad rear wheel oil seal
(Replaced the seals and bearings with a new kit from SOR - also replaced the rear differential cover since my old one had fused solid to the oil plug - while in there I added a new Aussie Locker)
- The bad oils seal had fudged up the brakes
(Rebuilt the driver's side brake - nothing exciting here)
- Bad Driver's side rear shock
(Replaced both rear shocks with cheapie units from Napa - made a huge difference!)
- Rusty-sharp metal bits sticking out from the bumpers
(Removed all of the scrap from the bumpers and the lone remaining bumper cover)
- Hole in passenger side rear fender
(This was fun - I patched and bondo'd it - it's not the greatest body work job in the world, but there's no hole in the finder now. While I was at that I decided to give the Curiser a two-toned paint job, cleaning up the rust from the rear hatch, the front bull-guard, and the driver's side doors - after masking everything off I painted it all flat black - it actually looks really good - I'm still going to paint the bumpers since I've been in a big de-chroming mode.)
- Bad exhaust hangers
(New exhaust from Marty's welding - kept the original down pipes, but cleaned up the cross over and tucked it right up by the frame - new single, high flow cat, and a flowmaster muffler. Sounds pretty good, and definately feels better on the road - it finally feels like it's not completely strangled above 3500 rpm)
Verdict: big thumbs up for everything so far - I need to adjust the valves and I want to figure out if i can reduce the valve tick that Bruce has always had. I also want to figure out if i can remove the air pump with out negatively affecting anything else.
