Brake rebuild question

[CYota]

Hello everyone ,

My land cruiser sat for roughly two years and I am having lots of issues with sporadic brakes sticking on . I have determined the front calipers appear to be getting stuck on . I have order replacement parts for the front and rear (drums ). Does this sound like I ordered everything I need ? I am replacing everything with new because this will be my daughters car and the extra cost is worth the piece of mind ? I plan on doing the fronts first then the rears later .

Rotors
Drums
Shoes
Parking brake shoe
Hardware for drums
Hardware for parking brake
Pads
Calipers
Wheel cylinders
Flex hoses for all four
Self adjusters

Is there anything I am missing parks i should replace ?

Also do the rotors come off with just taking the tire off or do I have to remove the bearing assembly too ? Any clarification would be helpful ? Thanks in advanced

 

[BILT4ME]

Hello everyone ,

My land cruiser sat for roughly two years and I am having lots of issues with sporadic brakes sticking on . I have determined the front calipers appear to be getting stuck on . I have order replacement parts for the front and rear (drums ). Does this sound like I ordered everything I need ? I am replacing everything with new because this will be my daughters car and the extra cost is worth the piece of mind ? I plan on doing the fronts first then the rears later .

Rotors
Drums
Shoes
Parking brake shoe
Hardware for drums
Hardware for parking brake
Pads
Calipers
Wheel cylinders
Flex hoses for all four
Self adjusters

Is there anything I am missing parks i should replace ?

Also do the rotors come off with just taking the tire off or do I have to remove the bearing assembly too ? Any clarification would be helpful ? Thanks in advanced

A few places for purchasing parts for these:

www.cruiserteq.com (Cruiser Outfitters)

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toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

www.partsouq.com
www.summitracing.com

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I got my brake parts through Summit Racing (PowerStop)
I try to do as much Toyota parts as practical. Some brake parts are better from Toyota. Most engine parts and sensors should be from Toyota.

Cruiser Outfitters has excellent quality and can offer advise on all this as well. Their bearing kits are VERY popular here.

These front brake rotors are inboard, meaning you must pull the hub and bearings to replace the rotors. So, the "WYIT" (While You're In There) parts list increases quickly.

I believe there are (7) hoses total for the brakes.

Otherwise, your list looks close.

Front hub seals
Front Wheel Bearings (maybe)
Front hub cones, nuts, washers (maybe)


Definitely check your nuts and studs on the bottom right front steering arm and you may needs nuts, studs, cones, and washers for those as well.

 

[CYota]

So you are suggesting I replace these as well . Did you replace the bearing inside the hub to ? I plan on inspecting the bearings on one side and taking it from there if that makes sense . If I can get them quickly I will order them . Any tricks on getting that 54mm nut off ?

 

[jpoole]

When were your wheel bearings and front axle last serviced? If they were serviced recently and your rotors are in spec (thickness) and not overly grooved or warped then there's likely little to no benefit in replacing them or going in that deep. In that scenario you can just replace all of the hydraulic components and pads/shoes in that and be good to go and if they are older I would go ahead and do all hydraulic components including rubber hoses/lines, lspv, etc. myself to just be done with it but you may be able to piecemeal it successfully if desired.

If it's been close to the service interval on bearings/axles or there is looseness or other issues then I'd plan to go ahead and do a front axle service and rear bearing remove/inspect, etc. It's annoying when the work snowballs like this but but if you end up pulling the front hubs to replace rotors it's not a lot more work to do a full service. Making one of these reliable for your daughter means that you need to be caught up on the deferred maintenance.

 

[jpoole]

The wheel bearings last a long time on these. Cleaning and inspecting for grooves/pits is a good idea but replacement can be based on what the inspection turns up. The Cruiser Outfitters kit for front axle service can include wheel bearings and comes with knuckle/trunion bearings.

Get a socket for the 54mm nut so that you can both remove them as well as reinstall them with a torque wrench. 25-35 ft lbs final torque on the inner nut and the normal torque on the outer is what many on the forum follow.

Also, sorry to jump in @BILT4ME , you had things under control but I'm killing some time so joined the party

 

[CYota]

I appreciate all the input . I have the rotors on order already but I might take a closer look at them and see if the ones on there can last a bit longer . I have a friend with a lift that would make the full service alot easier . Maybe caliper and pads at this point and service later this summer. I just can't bear to drive it round with it sticking the noise just hurts my soul cause i know whats happening .

I don't know the last time it was serviced the axle that is . And I am planning on doing the rebuild eventually but time is the limiting the resource for me as I am sure most of you can relate .

The vehicle was one family owned for 145k and serviced well and taken care of until it was parked two years ago . Mainly because of high gas usage . hahaha

 

[jpoole]

You'll at least want to check for loose wheel bearings carefully on all 4 wheels. Due to the FSM torque procedure (at least) loose wheel bearings are pretty common on these and they cause poor handling as well as spindle damage and reduced break performance. If the bearings have the right preload, run cool (you can touch the hubs comfortably after drives) and aren't spewing lube then you probably can wait on the axle service if no other obvious problems with them. I'd try to check for loose trunions as well, which can be harder to feel, just to know if your front axle service is more pressing or if they seem good.

You'll also want to make sure there is moly grease in the knuckles, which is what lubricates the birfield / CV joints. The knuckle cavities should be around 3/4 full which can be hard to determine. I typically pull the plug atop the knuckle and pump in some grease a few times a year. That coupled with keeping an eye on the knuckle balls to make sure they have a slight grease film should be enough to confirm that you aren't running anything dry up there.

Another good clue that tells you when it's time to do an axle service is gear oil and grease sludge leaking out of one of the knuckles. This can happen when an inner axle seal fails and/or the axle vent is clogged. In any case, thought I'd mention this as it's often what prompts folks to dive into the service work.

 

[CYota]

I will definitely be servicing them over the summer to be completely honest. I just didn't know that the rotors were in there like that . First time LC owner . I just need to get it drivable without the brakes dragging .

 

[clx16]

I recommend checking the pistons on the new calipers move freely before you put it all back together. I have had even remans have some dragging and in need of some additional checking. If i can't move them easily by squeezing with my hand then i remove the pistons and inspect and check that little rubber seal.

Not hard just something i do now.