Brake line kits?

[F-junker]

I habe seen a variety of kits for sale from the usual suspects. While I'm sure I could bend this all up myself, I don't have a double flair kit and frankly, Ive got better things to do than f with crap.

Who has purchased any kits and has had good bad or otherwise experience?
Stainless kits? overkill... I'm also looking to replace the hoses as well and will most likey use a SS braided line kit. I have seen them for around 100 beans.
I know this stuffis made in low production numbers so I have to quit comparing prices to vette and others, stillit's good to be an educated buyer and learn from others mistakes as well as your own.

Any advice here my friends? thx a mill Kenn

 

[Degnol]

FJ, I had never double flared a piece of tubing in my life, bought a decent(made in the USA) double flare tool (about $26) a couple of benders and have not had a failure. Replaced all my brake system. It was rewarding. Do not be afraid. Go for it.

Ed

 

[peesalot]

replaced mine , 3/16 hard line from autoparts in 72 in. pieces , use existing flare nuts unless they are wasted ( get new ones from Kurt) and a sinlge flare . I bought the same benders pictured above and used 1 of em I think twice , the rest went like pie with a little hand bending. I have single flared em and 0 leaks.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Many of the more difficult pieces are still available from the dealer and are priced very reasonably. I've also done the DIY route with pre-flared line from the parts stores with great success. Even flared a few lines as needed though not with one of the cheap parts store flaring tools (had one and it failed the first time I tried it). Doing a proper double flare is not hard with the right tools. I've also installed one of the stainless line kits from Cruiser Solutions. It was also a nice kit. Most everything lined up perfectly. Only one line just didn't seem to fit right. A couple adjustments to it and it fit as well. I like that with the bling SS kit I doubt I'll have to install new lines again from corrosion. Doubt it will stand up to rocks and roots any better though.

Nick

 

[smcruisin]

I wanted to get the SS brake-lines from Cruiser Solutions, but couldn't justify the cost, especially since I could borrow a Quality flare-tool, and C.S. stuff wouldn't be compatable with ALL the lines on my late-model Diesel truck.


If you decide to bend your own lines:

A quality tool will make much better, more consistant flares when compared to a cheaper model. Also, use a proper pipe-cutter to give you a square-cut end to start your flare.


Practice (as little as 5-10 practice flares) on some spare brake-tubing until you get good flares every time, then leave a little extra length on your actual lines in case you screw it up (and have to cut off another .5 inch). Helps to have someone show you first.


Like others have said, get 3/16 line, and re-use your metric dbl. flare nuts. Also works for making all the hard-lines you'll need for the enevitable PS conversion.



I don't mean to sound testy, but I've got to disagree with this advice:

I have single flared em and 0 leaks.

they're your brakes; Do it right, do it once, don't cut corners.

Single-flare is for plumbing, not brake-lines.

 

[edgemonster]

SAE or -AN your choice....

smcruisin,

SAE (45 degree / double flare) - designed for use as production fittings as defined by Detroit. Used in all production cars.

-AN (37 degree single flare) - Army-Navy standard designed for field serviceability. Used by the military, avaition, and the race car industry.

Single flare or double flare not a matter of being lazy.

 

[pygpen]

Over the weekend I re-plumbed all the brake lines on the 55, re-routing them to the driverside framerail.... Easy-Peasy. double flares, and spring wrap for a little added protection from the possability of a tossed stone denting my work.

I got the spring wrap from inline tube.
BTW, it is my understanding that the stainless tube can only be single flared at 37*.
PMK

 

[zebrabeefj40]

BTW, it is my understanding that the stainless tube can only be single flared at 37*.
PMK

Not sure where you learned this from but I believe it to be wrong. The SS lines I used from Cruiser Solutions were double flared just like stock. Only requires the correct alloy SS tubing, right tools and right technique. Only the fittings were not stock replicas; they are an SAE metric standard instead of JIS. Means the hex head was 11mm instead of 10mm; thread size the same.

Also, the fittings on pre-flared lines from the parts stores are identical to the Toyota fittings. No need to reuse old fittings when you can get new fittings IMHO.

Nick

 

[peesalot]

maybe you suck at single flare.
If done properly there is plenty strength and if 0 leaks after lots of use what then do you feel is poor or unsafe bout a single flare ?
It aint like leaving a cotter pin outa a tre nut or something.
I think the soft lines and banjo fittings are a weak link more so than a single flared hard line connection.

 

[smcruisin]

EdgeMonster,

Didn't know AN- was single flare, thanks. Thats some interesting info .



Peesalot,

I wasn't claiming anything about my flaring abillity.

<This isn't meant as an heated arguement, just a healthy debate. >

Any good design/standard (SAE, AN-, DIN, AISI, ets.) will work when used the way it was intended. Our brake-lines came from the factory with double-flare because that is how the whole tubing/flare-nut interface was designed.

I won't argue with you if you say you havn't experienced any leaks. However, considering single- and double-flares are VERY similar in; difficulty to form, time to form, and tool costs, why would you only half finish the job? What's to gain by single-flaring?

Words like "plenty strength", "weak link", and "weaker" are too subjective to justify using or not using something associated with brakes, steering, seatbelts, etc.





Cheers,
Steve

 

[CruisinTiger]

Hey I noticed on pygpen that there is not a coil of the brake lines like on the stock lines. I am gonna replace mine soon, what is the coil for?....I thought it was for absorption for when you were out wheelin so it wouldn't brake at the master cylinder...or am I wrong and they are just there for looks. Do ya need them or not? Thanks a bunch.

 

[CruisinTiger]

Hey I noticed on pygpen that there is not a coil of the brake lines like on the stock lines. I am gonna replace mine soon, what is the coil for?....I thought it was for absorption for when you were out wheelin so it wouldn't brake at the master cylinder...or am I wrong and they are just there for looks. Do ya need them or not? Thanks a bunch.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

The coil is take up movement differences between the body and frame while each moves around.

Nick

 

[pygpen]

I thought about it, and have done it on other rigs, and considered the number of bends before the line is attached to the framerail and decided that there was enough "give" not to warrant the coils.
PMK

Hey I noticed on pygpen that there is not a coil of the brake lines like on the stock lines. I am gonna replace mine soon, what is the coil for?....I thought it was for absorption for when you were out wheelin so it wouldn't brake at the master cylinder...or am I wrong and they are just there for looks. Do ya need them or not? Thanks a bunch.

 

[edgemonster]

Smcruisin,

Absolutely a healthy debate. I am just pointing out that there is more than one way to skin a cat. It's not that either is right or wrong. If AN can be used on billion dollar aircraft or Indy performance car then IMHO good enough for the cruiser. Let's not forget why the Cruiser was designed in the first place.

If someone is making brake lines w/ SAE flares and only single flaring then I agree that their being half-assed and dangerous, but if using a AN flare tool and AN fittings than it's just another option.

 

[pygpen]

This concerned me. I try not to spew BS, so I did a quick-n-easy search...... Here is what I found. It has to do with stainless tubing having a seam that causes sealing problems....

>When flaring stainless tubing, you only do a "single" flare. (as far as I know,
>it's not possible to do a double flare with stainless) As a result, what was the
>inside of the tubing becomes the sealing surface and that little seam can
>cause problems.

this was found here
http://www.chevelles.com/tools/tl4.html
I don't doubt what you say, or that Cruiser Solutions has nice double flared SS tubing....
PMK (DDA)

Not sure where you learned this from but I believe it to be wrong. The SS lines I used from Cruiser Solutions were double flared just like stock. Only requires the correct alloy SS tubing, right tools and right technique. Only the fittings were not stock replicas; they are an SAE metric standard instead of JIS. Means the hex head was 11mm instead of 10mm; thread size the same.

Also, the fittings on pre-flared lines from the parts stores are identical to the Toyota fittings. No need to reuse old fittings when you can get new fittings IMHO.

Nick

 

[pygpen]

there is also this little tidbit regarding single flares

This type flare should only be used on "stainless" hardline. Due to the strength of the stainless line, a double flare isn't required and would be extremely hard to do. Note that the inside of the tubing is the sealing surface. Stainless tubing is referred to as "seamless", in that there is very little seam on the inside surface. Keep in mind the phrase "very little seam"! Due to the small amount of seam, stainless tubing can be a problem to get to seat correct. Farther down, I'll talk about brass washers that can solve this problem.


PMK (DDA)