Brake hose burst - help, please!

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LX470Pilot

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Threads
34
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186
Location
Pasadena, CA
Thanksgiving morning - get in the car to go to grandparents for festivities.

Get to end of first block from home, come to stop, brake pedal continues to sink and car continues to roll.

Pull over with hand brake - have girlfriend press brake pedal - misting coming from behind Fr L wheel.

So, new project tomorrow - find and replace brake hoses. I've been wanting to do this with SS lines, but can't find them for the 2000 LX.

At this point, I just need it to work, so if anyone knows a parts place around the Long Beach, CA area that has these in stock - I suppose I could get from pick-a-part but the idea of used brake hoses makes me wary.

Also, anyone who wants to join me, or could offer some advice, I'm all ears!

Any suggestions?

-LX Pilot

P.S. - have alternate transportation to turkey dinner thanx to a friend, but I need my daily driver!
 
Ok, found StopTech SS brake hoses, bit pricey but worth it.

On reflection, I think I've figured out what caused the failure to begin with:

Previously I'd had a clicking noise from the same area (Fr L) which I initially thought to be a CV joint going bad.

A recent puncture caused the removal of the Fr L wheel, and tire replacement. As the technician removed the wheel, I noticed that the inboard weight was not seated correctly. When the new tire was mounted and the wheel put back, the clicking was gone.

I asked before about the possible damage that could have been done by a weight flying around under there, and someone (I'll look up the posts later) mentioned that it could affect the brake lines.

It would make sense to me that a weakened component of the wheel-side of the brake system would finally give out after being knocked around for a bit.

Now the question is what part was it, how quickly can I fix it, and how much will this cost me....? :confused:


Again any advice, help or assistance would be greatly appreciated.


I shall endeavor to photo-document this project as well as possible.


-LX Pilot
 
Well, the wheel weight would fly off at around 2/3 of your driving speed at that moment, so I guess it's capable of doing some damage to a brake hose. Have you taken the wheel off to see what exactly is broken? I guess you only would need to change that brake line, not all of them. But maybe it's not ven cut, only unplugged.
 
Wheel off...

First thing this morning, took off the wheel to see what I'm really dealing with.

Here's what I saw:
100_2616.jpg


100_2621.jpg


100_2622.jpg


Getting a replacement hose from Pepboys this afternoon - Stoptech's are just expensive for me right now.

So, anyone have some pointers to installing a brake hose?

Also, what solvent should I use to remove the brake fluid splatters? I already ran my tire under the hose for about 20min...
 
Sorry Pilot... but IMO, you can`t afford NOT to replace your hose(s) with the StopTech SS lines...


Besides the fact of where you are "sourcing" the replacement ( aka Manny Moe and Jack ) you`ll probably need to replace your replacement in a couple of years.. that is, if your lucky ;p

Recently, I picked up a set of FR/RR StopTech hoses from buybrakes.com

http://www.buybrakes.com/store/85-858-4500-F

They arrived in less than 24 hours from Southern CA, they fit perfectly, and the improved pedal feel and stopping performance left me wondering why the hell I waited so long to make the change.

If you need it fixed today, fine.. but use that POS pepboys line just to get you by until your sexy SS lines promptly arrive



BTW... Yes, I`m 100% sold on the StopTech product ! :D
 
Looks like you found your problem. Hose replacement should be pretty straight forward. I would recommend that you get a set of tubing wrenches. They will help ensure you don't round off the fittings. Should be available at any auto parts or good hardware store.

Even though you lost the hose closest to the master cylinder, I would recommend that you bleed all of the brakes starting with the right rear, left rear, right front and then left front. You may not have sucked air into the system-but not something you want to figure out on the highway.

As far as the mess it left, I'm not sure what to use. I would start with soap and water-and a lot of it as soon as possible. Brake fluid will melt the paint off you truck.

Good luck and sorry about your breakdown, glad to hear it was not as dangerous as it could have been.
 
SINCITY100 said:
use that POS pepboys line just to get you by until your sexy SS lines promptly arrive
Click to expand...

Exactly my intent - I need it this evening.

I won't mind taking it all apart again when I've got the cash and time for the SS lines.


In the mean time, I'm having trouble getting the upper end of the hose off the line - tips/tricks?

Here I've highlighted the places that were damaged by the improperly seated weight - the hose took the brunt of the impacts due to the LACK of a bolt through the retaining clip around the hose itself:
100_2622a.jpg
 
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My opinion; definitely not caused by a weight spinning off; it would be flung outward, unless it bounced a few times and then hit the hose directly, and then if it did, it would not cause that type of failure/damage. IMHO.

My guess is that Darrell and his cousin Darrell who worked on your brakes last just dropped the caliper, which tugged on the hose as it came to a screaching halt just dangling in the air; very very common. The average mechanic just drops the caliper instead of hanging it up as described in the FSM to avoid just this type of damage. Unless you have recently driven over a downed oak tree or hit some large piece of metal in the road (and that would be a stretch); it was done by the last mechanic who took the calipers off.

When was the last time you had any service done on your brakes?? I would for sure take the hose back to that guy and ask for something in return. Bring the photos also.
 
slee can get you some SS brake lines I think. my friend got some from slee, and they made them to length for his 4Runner.

glad it happened near your home, replacement is easy so good luck and take the advice and get some flared wrenches
 
LX470Pilot said:
Exactly my intent - I need it this evening.

I won't mind taking it all apart again when I've got the cash and time for the SS lines.


In the mean time, I'm having trouble getting the upper end of the hose off the line - tips/tricks?
Click to expand...



OK.. Then I forgive you for using the Pepboys hose ;)


I`m not sure why you`re having a problem with the upper end though .. mine came right off with no effort :confused:
 
gray said:
definitely not caused by a weight spinning off...

When was the last time you had any service done on your brakes??
Click to expand...

Umm... It was me, almost exactly a year ago. And I was very careful to rest the caliper without straining the hose. Before then (1.5yrs previous) it had always been taken to the dealer. There was no bolt through the retaining clip on the hose when I serviced them last year, so that can be attributed to the dealer, unless it just rattled and shook out.

In any case, maybe the picture doesn't show it very well, but in my second pic posting above, the yellow arrows point to bare metal on two different components, also there is definite evidence of laceration to the hose itself, which would not follow with a strained hose theory.

I agree it was not done by a weight spinning off - It was from a weight being tight, but improperly seated. I saw it when I got my tire replaced a couple weeks ago, hanging at about 45degrees out from the wheel, and the tire tech still needed the pliers to get it off.


FirstToy said:
slee can get you some SS brake lines...

...get some flared wrenches
Click to expand...

I couldn't find them for my year on Slee's website, but have since discovered StopTech's products available through buybrakes.com - though I'd be happy to consider Slee's product as well, if indeed they are available.

I'm doing this on a tight a budget as possible - The upper hose fitting is the real PITA, but a 10mm crescent wrench holds it perfectly - just had to remove part of the AHC sensor position arm to get the leverage on it properly. However I do see the logic in having flared or tube wrenches, and will acquire them in the future.


When I get the replacement in about an hour, I also want to pick up some tubing to facilitate bleeding the lines. Anyone happen to know the tube diameter that's needed?
 
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Got the new hose, installed, bled all four calipers, filled reservoir to max line, wheel back on and just got back from a road test.

Started slow from a few miles an hour brake gently then more firmly.

Finished with a 40mph panic stop, tires squelched, ABS kicked in, Full and complete stop in just a few feet.

Thanx for everyone's input!

-LX Pilot
 
I now see the dings in the metal; but can't see how a lead weight would gouge steel like that??

I agree; looks like something hit it, but hit it really hard from above, and if you look closely, the dings appear to be going in different angles; like ?multiple strikes or struck once by a something with multiple edges; a head scratcher; a loose tool, rotor, or caliper??? Or, was it damaged somehow because it was not properly secured in the retaining clip?

You'll need to send the metal bracket out to a CSI-type for scanning electron microscopy followed by spectroscopic evaluation to see what other metals have been left behind in the dings, then take it from there. OK, maybe that is taking it too far ;-))

Glad to see that it is fixed.
 
gray said:
I now see the dings in the metal; but can't see how a lead weight would gouge steel like that??

I agree; looks like something hit it, but hit it really hard from above, and if you look closely, the dings appear to be going in different angles; like ?multiple strikes or struck once by a something with multiple edges; a head scratcher; a loose tool, rotor, or caliper??? Or, was it damaged somehow because it was not properly secured in the retaining clip?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it was the clip itself, not the lead weight - I can't see lead doing that to steel either.

Multiple strikes: I wasn't clear on this in this thread - I had a once-per-revolution click from my Fr L wheel anywhere between 1/4 and Full lock Left turn. Lived with it for almost 5months (I know, unthinkable) as I thought it was a CV joint going bad, and I just didn't have the money to fix it. I finally had the money to get a new CV, but almost immediately got a flat on the same wheel - got a new tire, and magically, the clicking stopped!

I had noticed the position of the weight when they took the tire off, but had so much on my mind at the time, I didn't put 2 and 2 together until a few days later.

The hose failed while at a stoplight, foot resting on pedal. Nice firm brake feel, then suddenly the pedal slowly sinks to the floor. The punished hose just finally gave up - glad it happened A: on the street vs freeway (or worse, on a trail miles from anywhere) and B: close enough to home I was able to coast/use the hand brake to get it where I could work on it.

gray said:
You'll need to send the metal bracket out to a CSI-type for scanning electron microscopy followed by spectroscopic evaluation to see what other metals have been left behind in the dings, then take it from there.
Click to expand...

Eh, yeah, I'll get right on that! :grinpimp:
 
I also bought the stoptech hoses from buybrakes.com. They will be going on next week. The stoptech rear kit only comes w/ 2 hoses, as there is no hose from the frame to axle housing. I had one made at an Earl's performance shop near where I used to live in LA while visiting last month. I figure why just replace 4 of the 5 hoses, as the extra stress of having 4 hoses will all go to the sole rubber hose from the frame to axle housing.
 
"I had a once-per-revolution click from my Fr L wheel anywhere between 1/4 and Full lock Left turn. Lived with it for almost 5months (I know, unthinkable) as I thought it was a CV joint going bad, and I just didn't have the money to fix it. I finally had the money to get a new CV, but almost immediately got a flat on the same wheel - got a new tire, and magically, the clicking stopped!"

Sounds like a nail in the tire; coming around and striking the road every revolution, which would also account for the flat. Did they find a nail in the tire?

Had a lot of nails/flats after the Hurricanes a couple of years ago, so got real familar with the sound.
If I recall correctly; 6 flats and about three times that many nails/ screws, etc in the tires. Often the nail/screw gets pushed down into the tread and worn down, so it is hard to see, but you can still hear it striking the pavement under the right conditions. Good that I had the SEARS lifetime warranty on my Michelins; got my monies worth x 10 on that deal.
 
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weak link

May not apply in this case, but on older vehicles when you replace one brake hose the other brake hoses all become weaker links in the chain. The newest one does not flex as much as the others under braking / hydraulic pressure and more pressure is exerted on the now weaker hoses. Something to keep in mind eh.
 
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