Body lift question

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Joined
Jul 9, 2004
Threads
386
Messages
3,997
Location
Montgomery Co. TEXAS
Website
missionsonwheels.org
I'm not a fan of 'em but with the TB installed I need one to get me driveline back in line and I could sure use the extra 1.5" if ground clearance.

Did some clean up in the garage this week and came across some 1/4" wall 1.5" square tube. Any reason I can't just cut it to fit the various bodymount locations, tack weld the tube in place and put the regular poly bushings back in place? 1/4" wall should hold the weight of the body right?
 
It would probably work if you box them so the "pucks" spread the load. Don't forget about your cage tying into the frame and any alterations that would need to accomplished.

I know $$ is tight but this might be a plug and play install. "click" Body lift

Why do the hyper links match the regular text? That's dumb, it should be blue like the main board. Hijack over
 
$80 plus the bolts is a decent price for you workin' folks :hillbilly: I may run it the way it is for a til winter and jack with it then. Hopefully my back will be fixed and I'll be employeed by then. The cage is not tied to the body yet. That was gonna be another winter project..... install a Metal-Tech family cage with frame tie-ins.

I started pulling unused wires out of the thing last night. The brown truck had a box from Del City fall of it right in front of my house the other day. Gonna try and my switches relocated this weekend and cleanup the wiring...... IH8Wiring......
 
I have several 4' sticks of 2"x2" solid UHMW Polyethylene. I'm planning on using some of it for a 1-2" body lift on my 40 whenever i get around to a tranny/t-case swap. I've got a lot more than I'll ever need, so you're welcome to some of it if you want it.
 
I checked out Lance Ashers 40 at the picnic. He did body lifts on his 40. I also looked at Rons from White trash at Flat and Nasty last year. He stated it was needed to get the 6.2 diesel in...

I just finished mine up. I used Solid 3" round aluminum. Easy to drill a hole through the center. I used 1/2" grade 8 bolts all around. Keep your little rubber squares off the original body mounts. Mine needed different amounts to shim. Keep everything loose to add and subtract shim's until you get the front fenders and bib lined up... I used square tube accross the back of the body. I think the total cost was about $60.
 
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