Blown Headgasket???????

[Manlye]

Yet another thread about a headgasket. When I checking fluid levels this weekend I noticed the leak on the rear of the engine, go old number 6 spot. I am going do the head gasket job for piece of mind but took these pics to see if it looks like it is on it way out. Currently no overheating, a cupful of loss out in the overflow over 6 months. Can this wait a month or should it be fixed now?? Any thoughts would be appricated.

 

[Manlye]

Pics

 

[IdahoDoug]

That's a valve cover leak - oil. Gently tighten the rear valve cover screws. Key word gently. If the valve cover's already in contact with the block, further tightening will break off the screw, so it's one of those "feel" things. No worries on the HG leak and that small a coolant rate is not abnormal during hotter summer months.

DougM

 

[DTAYLOR]

how many miles?

Doug, does that # 6 on the LX NOT have the EGR port? I don't see it in his #1 pic, do you?

 

[Manlye]

Thanks for the help, I will try to tighten the cover, 145k miles.

 

[Manlye]

Would it be better to put on a new gasket or is that a job?

 

[DTAYLOR]

Would it be better to put on a new gasket or is that a job?

That isn't too difficult a job. Depending on your mechanical ability, I would estimate 1.5 to 2.5 hours.

If you decide to do it you'll be stretching over the radiator a lot. DO NOT lean on the radiator. The top tank is the part most exposed and you will ruin the seal on that top tank if you lean on it just a bit.

Sort of an Achili's heal on this rig due to the plastic tank. That said, the factory radiator is otherwise very reliable and will go a long long time.

This is also a good time to replace the plugs, air filter, change oil, clean the block as good as you can with engine cleaner, brake cleaner, etc.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Good advice on watching the rad. I would tighten the screws a tad (15 minutes) to see if the slight seep stops. If it doesn't I probably wouldn't screw around with a several hour job to replace the gasket. It's an easy job, but by the time you get the tools out, pull off the various bits to get to it, clean the valve cover (groan), reinstall everything, clean up and put the tools away you've likely spent 4 hours.

DT - the EGR port is under the exhaust pipe flange of the #6 cylinder, so you can't really see it even though his heat shields are missing. In the second pic, you can see that the #6's flange extends rearward an inch or so when compared to the #5 cylinder.

DougM