bj60 glow plug timer location (1 Viewer)

[mike]

Yes those are the voltage readings I got . What should they be? Thx

 

[polarweasel]

The voltage at the bus bar should be higher (hotter plugs) in the initial glow phase, and lower in the afterglow (cooler plugs).

 

[mike]

The voltage at the bus bar should be higher (hotter plugs) in the initial glow phase, and lower in the afterglow (cooler plugs).

What could be cause perhaps my timer has screwed up?

 

[polarweasel]

Sounds like fun from a previous owner... double-check all that wiring, and then suspect the timer.

 

[nlcruiser]

Manual Switch Bypass Glow Timer

BJ60 Bypass

I took the instrument cluster out, and cut the two wires going to the glow light, in effect severing the light from the harness; I believe one is black/red and one is red/white. One is powered when the key is on ACC (I think it was black/red). This is the one you want to run to one side of the NO switch. Dead head the other wire.

Run two wires off the other side of the NO switch: One to the glow light bulb pigtail you left yourself, and one to the black/red wire that heads to the main relay from the drivers side kick panel area.

Run another other wire from the back of the glow light bulb to ground of your choice (I took it to a bolt on the firewall).


gb

Alright, so I am completely new to this wilson switch stuff, and have read the posts on here repeatedly. I just wanted some clarification on the above section of Greg B's greatly helpful post.

You want to run one wire from the glow light to the switch, and then it reads to run two other wires to the other side of the switch - one to the relay, and one to the light.

My question is this, do you run only two wires to the switch? one to the light, and one to the relay? Also, am I correct to assume that they should each be running from different poles on the switch? ie, one pole to the light, and the other to the relay?

Also, when it says to 'deadhead' one of the glow light wires, it later says to run it to a ground. Is this what deadhead means, or was that a temporary thing to do while you were connecting the other wires?

I'm hoping to try this great mod tomorrow. I have an '89 HJ60, and would love to be able to glow it effectively.

Thanks!
mike.

 

[nlcruiser]

Sorry for the poor quality, but is this very crude sketch, essentially what is being accomplished with Greg B's wilson switch setup?

Thanks!
mike.

 

[derelict]

Manual Switch Bypass Glow Timer

BJ60 Bypass

Fist off I believe I am one of many pilferer's of great ideas, and as such I hope not to get credit where credit is not due. Kudos to master Toyota Tech Ciaran Wilson of Langley, BC. He has run this system in his BJ60’s (or variations of) for at least 5 years. I am sure the LandCruiser community will be hearing more of him in the coming years.

I also do not take detailed notes, such as pin # on connections, so if anyone who uses this wants to add to the tech sheet feel free.

The fuse panel has one 7.5amp fuse marked Glow. In reality, all this fuse does it light up the glow light on the dash.

Access the glow timer in the kick panel on the drivers side. Undo the factory connection to the glow timer. Among all the wires heading up the harness are two black/red wires (opposite ends of the plug). One goes to the high end glow relay, and the other goes to the afterglow relay (picture supplied on this post; I removed the cover of the relay so it would identify easier---the one you want is on top of the inner fender, not the one beside the starter relay). I pushed a wire into one connection at the kick panel, and ran it out the door and to engine bay. I simply completed the loop at the battery using the age old “push the bare wire onto the positive pole” method, and listened for which glow relay it activated. When I got the right relay I marked and cut the wire at the harness in the kick panel.

I took the instrument cluster out, and cut the two wires going to the glow light, in effect severing the light from the harness; I believe one is black/red and one is red/white. One is powered when the key is on ACC (I think it was black/red). This is the one you want to run to one side of the NO switch. Dead head the other wire.

Run two wires off the other side of the NO switch: One to the glow light bulb pigtail you left yourself, and one to the black/red wire that heads to the main relay from the drivers side kick panel area.

Run another other wire from the back of the glow light bulb to ground of your choice (I took it to a bolt on the firewall).

Test the system, then finalize all your connections. With the key is out, you should be able to press the button, and nothing happens. Turn the key to acc and when the button is pressed current should go through to both the glow light, and the main glow relay, tripping the relay and glowing your plugs, as well as turning on the glow light.

Make sure your connections are sound (solder and shrink wrap), put back together and enjoy.

This system has been used for at least 5 years with no issues appearing. It works great on my truck. Wire it in at your own risk.

Leave the glow timer right out of the system, and you have a totally manual system. You could hook the timer back up, deadhead the one black/red cut wiring coming out the timer, and in effect have total control of the high end glow and still maintain the afterglow, if it still works.

I have not yet changed out the plugs from the 12V super glow Toyota=19850-68050 (51) 12V-6V to the manual glow 12V Toyota=19850-68010 12V-10.5V…one day.

Brownbear, I suppose one could not sever the connection at the timer relay, and simply T into that with the above wiring system. You could then “super afterglow” the system with the button if you choose.

Alternatively, you could check the wiring and see if you can do much the same as the 13BT/12HT glow system fix that Mike Forbes pioneered. I believe Stone has some excellent posts further defining this override on Mud. I have not confirmed, however if it is the same you can tap into the water sensor loop for the glow with a normally closed switch. When you push the button you in effect mimic very cold weather, and fool the system into glowing as long as the button is pushed. When you release the button, the normal glow cycle happens. Again, I have not checked to see if this would work with the BJ60 super glow system; I figured plan old manual would be the best for me.

hth’s and hope this made sense!

gb

Okay, so Ive had enough of the Super Glow 6v system in my BJ60. I want it gone and want this Wilson Switch but I do not understand the above description 100%. Has anyone scribbled it down in a diagram form? I dont care if I retain the glow light on the dash, I just want to be able to glow for more than 3 seconds. On the coldest, Im talking 10 degrees F, the longest that lamp has ever been on is about 3 or 4 seconds. That is not long enough after sitting for 10 hours. I just dont understand the above description. Can anyone help (or come to my house and do it for me )?

 

[derelict]

Okay, having done some trouble shooting on the glow system yesterday and looking at the wiring diagram, I am getting ready to wire up a switch for the glow system this weekend.

1) Looking at the directions, I get that there are two wires, both Black with Red (B-R) tracer, coming out of the timer in the kick panel. I know which one powers the main relay on the inner fender. That wire I will remove from the plug (rather than just cut)
2) Remove the wire from each end of the glow lamp in the cluster. Directions say one is Black with Red tracer and the other is Red with White. Looking at my factory diagram, I am, I see the R-W (Red with White) but the other is B-Y (Black with Yellow?). I guess that I am going to identify the the ACC powered one and then extend it to run to the new glow switch (two prong momentary switch). The other one, set aside.
3) Off of the second, open pole of the switch, run one wire up to the set aside wire coming from the glow lamp bulb that was set aside in step 2. Off of this same pole, run an extension wire down to the B-R wire that I pulled off of the Pre Heating Timer in the drivers kick panel that I removed from the harness that runs to the glow plug relay.

***So, at this point, I have one prong on the momentary switch wired to one ACC lead off of the factory Glow Lamp in the dash. The other prong on the momentary switch has two wires on it; 1 from the other end of the factory Glow lamp in the dash and the 2nd going down to the B-R wire that opens the relay on the inner fender.***

4) "Run another other wire from the back of the glow light bulb to ground of your choice (I took it to a bolt on the firewall)" Why am I grounding out a lamp that I have already cut out of the system? The wiring diagram shows that there are two separate wire color codes coming out of the Heating Timer that runs to the Glow Lamp. One R-W (Red with White tracer?) and one R-Y (Red with Yellow tracer?). Are there two wires feeding into the lamp with only one on the other side? If so, the other unused wire is grounded?

The factory wiring diagram sucks as it does not give you any color codes at all. Is the above correct? I just want to make sure I have a full understanding before I go making changes that will sideline my truck if done incorrectly.

 

[Dbradford04]

reverse key position

Is there any reason not to use the reverse "glow" position on the key as your NO switch in this scenario rather than adding a switch to the dash? I would like to keep my dash as clean as possible.

D

 

[lostmarbles]

Is there any reason not to use the reverse "glow" position on the key as your NO switch in this scenario rather than adding a switch to the dash? I would like to keep my dash as clean as possible.

D

The key can't be used to provide "afterglow" to smooth out any rough-running.

 

[Dbradford04]

Makes sense..not sure I need afterglow..Do you use it in your climate Tom? It was just a thought so as to keep the dash cleaner.

D

 

[lostmarbles]

Makes sense..not sure I need afterglow..Do you use it in your climate Tom? It was just a thought so as to keep the dash cleaner.

D

No I certainly don't need afterglow in New Zealand (even if I wake up in some lonely place in the mountains in mid-winter at minus 5 oC).

I only have the "turn back the key" feature ... and that's all I need here.

 

[essar5]

Wire diagram

Drew up a quick wire diagram from Greg's description while servers were down at work. Let me know if there are any corrections needed and I will update.

 

[Elkhorn1]

On the above diagram shouldn't the power from the Acc position on the key (now coming from the hot lead on the glow light) be on one pole of the momentary switch with the light and the relay both on the other pole? Unless I don't understand it (more than possible) it looks in the above diagram like the plugs would always be hot and the momentary switch would turn on the glow light.

 

[Poser]

TTT

 

[Greg_B]

So...all you repair folks who will install this system on customers Cruisers, and those who will install it on their own...how about calling it the "Wilson Switch". Then in 10 years we can sit around campfires and listen to people talking about a manual over ride that someone hooked up, saying it's call the Wilson switch...and asking..."Why is it called the Wilson Switch?)

gb

Just over 10 years later...We have success around the worlds virtual campfire (forums): Google

Cool.
gb

 

[wooleyfj62]

Sorry for digging up an old thread am inright in thinking the black and red wire going into the relay is the one you put the switch to. Other to power and the two small wires run to the plugs and resistor on a hj60