More detail on using Mini birfs directly in LC knuckles
I just joined this list (though not a newbie to FJs or lists). In
reviewing the past posts before asking a question here I saw this post
from you last April 14th. Here's my situation:
1976 FJ40, sprung over, ARBs, SM420, TBI, ... I am about
to get the front knuckles turned and while they are in
there, I thought I would grind out the knuckle openings
to allow mini birfs. I don't want to change any other
parts (brakes/steering) as they are all solid and disk anyway. I see
from your post that I need to add a bolt and a fender washer to hold
the birf from sliding too far out of the diff. Any more detail here?
Do I stack fender washers to get the 3/8" - or is a single washer and
the bolt head sufficient? Lock tite?
TIA
woody said:
[quote author=TOY4X4HOPEFULL link=board=1;threadid=14682;start=msg138971#msg138971 date=1081957666]
Where do you need to grind? Do you have a pic of the area and how much to take off. Would it interfere with a gasket or seal? Would their be any issues or sloppiness going back to a Cruiser birf? Thanks Alot
purchase knuckle rebuild kit (may as well...)
remove entire knuckle
grab birf and try and fit in fishmouth opening (stock squeezes in, mini is too tight)
stuff rag in inner seal, grab angle grinder, spend 5-10 seconds on top/bottom of opening
re-test mini birf...when it squeezes in, yer done
reassemble with new kit
no sloppiness issues...once the opening is ground, easy to swap between birfs...no gasket or seal interference...
DOES require a different approach to lockout installation tho....with the 76-78 FJ birfs, you run a clip behind the outer face of the lockout...with the minitruck-sized birfs, you'll now run a small bolt and fender washer, since the mini birfs are 3/8" or so shorter. Again, no effect whatsoever on performance or anything else, just a part to remember...[/QUOTE]