Maybe I'm going crazy. I was thinking the filler was above the hose. Please excuse me. I guess I should be happy I never have to open the hood so I forget where everything is. 
-Spike
-Spike
Better radiator hose clamp?
- Thread starter EricE
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- Thread starter
- #22
As IdahoDoug said, the battery box is in the background and the hose you are seeing is on the top DS of the radiator.
I guess I have some things to try.
First, I'll test with my presurizer again to verify exactly where the leak is. If it IS coming out of the hose interface then I'll just have to figure out how to get that copper nipple back to round so the hose clamp works.
I guess I have some things to try.
First, I'll test with my presurizer again to verify exactly where the leak is. If it IS coming out of the hose interface then I'll just have to figure out how to get that copper nipple back to round so the hose clamp works.
i would not trust jb weld on a radiator may last for a few mouths but after that i wouldn't trust it with all those heat cycles it WILL crack. if your radiator is at a point where you would need jb weld id start sourcing a new one. jb weld will get you back on your feet for a while tho
that troft where the coolant is collecting there is most likely a hair line crack in it dry the area with a paper towel with the radiator cool and get it up to operating temp and you will see where it is coming from
good luck
-nat
that troft where the coolant is collecting there is most likely a hair line crack in it dry the area with a paper towel with the radiator cool and get it up to operating temp and you will see where it is coming from
good luck
-nat
I don't know why JB weld is being recommended for this app - I love the stuff in other apps but with heat cycles, compression, and a corrosive environment - this is not a good app for it. When you bring your radiator to a shop to be fixed - they use solder. If it has a hair line crack - they use solder. Replacement is unnecessary unless it is massively clogged or corroded. Like IdahoDoug said build it up and file it down to shape - and no need to let it set overnight..
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- #26
Attached is a pic of the dimple/indent. I didn't find any other source of a leak except that. I used JB Weld and it seems to have solved the problem. Here I am not sealing a crack but just filling a low spot so I hope JB will last a good long time. If not, I'll just have to do it again with solder...no harm done.
I did the repair two days ago. I drove it the first day without topping off the radiator and had a dry seem the first day. So the next day I filled the radiator again and have driven to work. No leaks showing yet.
I did the repair two days ago. I drove it the first day without topping off the radiator and had a dry seem the first day. So the next day I filled the radiator again and have driven to work. No leaks showing yet.
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- #28
Just a quick update that the final problem was the radiator cap. I had never seen it leaking but I continued to have coolant show up on that rail. I replaced the cap and all is dry now.
x2 for the constant torque clamps for all cooling applications. I bought all new ones when I rebuilt my upper end. Like Joey, I think I spent about $150 or so from NAPA for these.
beno said:
Is there a trick when using these clamps? I used them when installing new hoses and I've had two leaks. I was able to fix the leaks by loosening the clamp, wiggling the hose, and retightening the clamp.
- Thread starter
- #31
My log says I first had leakage issues in 11/2009. Just this weekend I found a hairline crack about 4" long along the outer edge of the radiator top. It must have been there all along as a leak there would present exactly like my pictures. It lies right in the bottom of the groove. My family advises me to solder it. Is this possible as a DIY? I have hunting in 1 month and need to get this squared away.
Advice on how to solder this? Tiny torch or soldering iron?
Advice on how to solder this? Tiny torch or soldering iron?
- Thread starter
- #32
Nobody has any advice huh?
Ok, well, Yesterday I picked up a cheap propane torch, acid flux, acid core solder, wire brush, emery cloth, copper solder tip to heat with the torch. The only thing I forgot was etching solution.
I'll give it a try and let you know.
Ok, well, Yesterday I picked up a cheap propane torch, acid flux, acid core solder, wire brush, emery cloth, copper solder tip to heat with the torch. The only thing I forgot was etching solution.
I'll give it a try and let you know.
- Thread starter
- #33
The soldering didn't quite work out as expected. It did fix about 90% of the issue but I am going to try again tonight for 100%.
I was not able to use the soldering tip like I hoped. I could not get the radiator hot enough to melt the solder. I ended up using the $15 propane torch directly on the radiator and that worked. Toward the edge I had some moisture boiling up as i applied the solder and that is where it still leaks a little. I am going to redo that tonight.
I was not able to use the soldering tip like I hoped. I could not get the radiator hot enough to melt the solder. I ended up using the $15 propane torch directly on the radiator and that worked. Toward the edge I had some moisture boiling up as i applied the solder and that is where it still leaks a little. I am going to redo that tonight.
You need to drain the radiator below the repair otherwise you will never get it to seal. Remove the radiator cap so any steam generated has a place to go. Be thorough cleaning all the paint & corrosion from the area to be soldered. Be careful with the heat as the radiator itself is soldered together & you could cause it to leak elsewhere.
I would probably consider a professional repair or a replacement radiator for long term use. If there is one crack, there are likely to be other weak areas.
I would probably consider a professional repair or a replacement radiator for long term use. If there is one crack, there are likely to be other weak areas.
- Thread starter
- #35
Yes, I did all that Paul. I have completed three repairs in total. I used wet towels on parts of the radiator I wasn't soldering to reduce the chances of popping seams elsewhere. The first two repairs were in the same area and nicely took care of the leak there. Then I found another leak 4" away so I did that one too. I haven't driven it since then so I can't tell yet if I got them all. Still, when a new radiator is $400+, this fix is well worth the money at around $40.
Be careful with Amazon. That might or might not be a real Koyo, two core aluminum radiator with plastic tanks.
What you want IMHO if you are replacing the radiator is a C1917 Koyo. Plastic tank / three row copper core. $315.00 plus shipping. You can not beat that anywhere. You can get one from Auto Cool. Ask for Tom. If you want two row aluminum they have those as well C1918 at $285. 1-800-972-7088.
I would not take my chances on ebay for a critical part of your truck. Call Tom and he will hook you up. Or call beno if you want factory OEM.
Good luck.
What you want IMHO if you are replacing the radiator is a C1917 Koyo. Plastic tank / three row copper core. $315.00 plus shipping. You can not beat that anywhere. You can get one from Auto Cool. Ask for Tom. If you want two row aluminum they have those as well C1918 at $285. 1-800-972-7088.
I would not take my chances on ebay for a critical part of your truck. Call Tom and he will hook you up. Or call beno if you want factory OEM.
Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thank you for the part info.
I tested the fix last night and I have still more leaks going on. I am confident that what I am doing is working but I think I would have to solder the entire top to get it leak proof. This calls for a new radiator but I think I'll live with it for this year and replace it next year. I believe the leaks are so small as to not cause a problem other than the occasional refill of the overflow which I am in the habit of doing anyway.
Breeze clamps for sure !!!
It looks like oem. Came in a big blue koyorad box.