Best way to bypass RSE connector under seat

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R

Rundeep32

Joined
Jan 10, 2026
Threads
2
Messages
7
Location
Boston
Everybody, I am new here and of course coming to you with a problem… Sorry about that.

My 2011 LX has no sound and the "no audio" message on the NAV screen. I did the diagnostic screen and it's giving me RSE:NCON. I've read a ton of posts on this and want to thank everyone for their contributions. To keep this as short as possible, I was just wondering if anyone could provide me with a quick tutorial on the best way of bypassing the plug to the module underneath the passenger seat so I can isolate the RSE from MOST.

I have taken the seat out and looked at the connector. It has very small pins and I am concerned that I won't be able to get sections of wire in there to jumper accurately. This link has a picture of the wire jumper that worked but looks tough to make:

PDoyle

Thread 'LX stereo no sound -fixed'

There is a ton of wiring under the carpeting under the front seats. I stuck my arm under the front seats to clean up some (gold fish) food spillage.
The next day I drove around with no sound coming from the stereo and of course thinking I needed the $700 replacement amp.
I checked fuses and none were blown, so it had to be a connection issue.
After reading up on amp failure and replacement I found the wiring for the stereo and the display goes under both seats.
Long story short and it was the wiring under the passenger side seat. I pulled the battery cable and kind of pulled the wire...
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Is it possible that there is some type of bypass plug that is available to purchase? Otherwise, any tips on how to best do this with the wire sections would be great. I did read about cutting the wires behind the connector and had peeled back the insulation but doing this is exceeding the point of no return so I would just like to see if I can get audio back by bypassing first.

Thank you so much!
 
Sorry for replying to my own thread, but I got an update… I got the plug out from underneath the seat passenger seat for what I believe is the RSE module and it looks different on my 2011 and the one in the pics which I think is from a 2012-

This is why I was saying from memory that they connector as much tighter for jumping, but do you think the 1-3, 2-4 jump would work here? I also attached a picture of the module it connects to and also the diagnostic screen, which shows that the amp is working OK.

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My 2015 has the no audio/volume control issue as well. RSE doesn't even show up on the dignostic.

Here is a pic of my plug. Does anyone know if the 1-3, 2-4 jumper wotks for this? I tried but nothing changed. The connections are tiny though and i'm not even sure if i'm making contact with the pins or not.

EDIT: Nevermind. Need to get some thicker gauge wire or just cut the wires and splice them together I think. Seems 1-3, 2-4 should be right for me.

20260208_155718.webp
 
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