ATRAC And Locked rear diff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2006
Threads
8
Messages
42
several months back I did the wire hack under the hood to allow the ATRAC and the Locked Rear Diff. to work at the same time. Dash lights and all worked just fine. I was driving back home the other day from wheeling and the ABS and VSC lights came on. I had turned off the diff, ATRAC and was in 4 hi. Could not get the lights to turn off so I returned the wiring to stock form, lights whent out. Checked all traction modes and were working fine in stock wiring setup. I then tried to go back to the ATRAC/Rear diff lock hack and the lights did the same thing as first stated. Any idea's or help with this would be appreciated. Thank you, Michael:confused:
 
atrac lights

While this doesn't fully explain you condition...another possibility is that you knocked your steering angle sensor out of whack while wheeling. See this post on the other forum. It doesn't explain why it all reverted to normal when you removed the hack, though it is food for thought.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...ou-have-your-vsc-trac-warning-lights-may.html


several months back I did the wire hack under the hood to allow the ATRAC and the Locked Rear Diff. to work at the same time. Dash lights and all worked just fine. I was driving back home the other day from wheeling and the ABS and VSC lights came on. I had turned off the diff, ATRAC and was in 4 hi. Could not get the lights to turn off so I returned the wiring to stock form, lights whent out. Checked all traction modes and were working fine in stock wiring setup. I then tried to go back to the ATRAC/Rear diff lock hack and the lights did the same thing as first stated. Any idea's or help with this would be appreciated. Thank you, Michael:confused:
 
ABS is the weird one, that wouldn't trigger off the steering module... The only other time I've heard of ABS and VSC lighting up was if they were running 1 tire smaller than the other (small spare) or a wheel sensor went bad?? And it's normal for them to both light up when in 4 low locked before the hack... but not in 4 high... Almost sounds like maybe a bad power splice?
 
tried the the hack again, this time it worked, made sure I had a good contact and all worked just fine. GO FIGURE!!:o Michael

Did you use any type of sealant when tapping into the wires (ie silicone)? I'm wondering if moisture or corrosion is/was giving a faulty reading.
 
I've heard a lot and read a lot regarding A-TAC and locking differentials... Toyota's website indicates that A-TAC is better than a LD, since it does not rob your maneuverability like a LD would.

From what I find on this and other forums and also on TV I've come to understand that locking REAR as well as locking FRONT give better off road capabilities.

Which is correct? Are they both correct for different reasons?





additionally... BMThiker... I see your oldschool avatar, and raise you OS ink.

C64/Apple II Era Lode Runner:
lrinktn.jpg


Intellivision running man:
bandink5.jpg
 
Maybe try to disco the battery for a few minutes and let everythign reset- so that might clear your christmas tree for good.


RPB-7,
open diffs = 1 wheel drive
center locking diff= 2 wheel drive
ff/rr/ctr locking diffs= 4 wheel drive

Yes, maximum traction is only achieved with locking the diffs. What is best depends on the terrain and conditions.

ATRAC is engaging your ABS system with the gas pedal instead of the brake pedal.
DAC, ATRAC, VSC are all multi-use versions of the ABS system.

I have run a ARB rear locker/ATRAC front on my 03 4Runner and it's a great combo. A rear locker adds a lot of capability.
Keeping ATRAC in the front helps prevent CV/axle/diff/tre damage on the IFS.
 
Atrac

ihad used some tape the last time I wired it. the new application I used silacone and did the battery disco. I is well in Michael's world now. Can now get back to wheeling. Thanks for input, ;p
 
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