ARB compressor issues. New harness, and it's still not working. HELP!!

[KingSpence]

ARB compressor issues. New harness, and it's still not working. With Video. HELP!!

First things first, why am I in the 80-series section when I drive a 60? Because this section is larger, I figure I can get an answer quicker. It's a universal question.

My ARB compressor failed to turn on a few weeks back, and when the isolating switch was left to "ON", sometimes it would kick in every once and a while for a few seconds. I tried troubleshooting the system, and looking at the state of the harness I decided to find a replacement.

With my new ARB harness hooked up, when I turned "ON" the isolating switch the compressor ran for about 20 seconds, then shut off. When I flipped my front and rear locker switches, nothing happened; and when I shut them off I did not hear the "pftshh" of air releasing from the locker solenoid valves. It was almost like the compressor just ran for 20 seconds and then called it quits, and either my lockers are not engaging, or the compressor has not produced enough psi to do so.

I then took 12v directly to the compressor and it ran as it should. I let it run for about 10 seconds then cut the power to it. I re-hooked up my harness, checked all the connections, and tried again; but this time it wouldn't run at all when I flipped the isolating switch ON and OFF repeatedly. I replaced the relay as well. The only thing that I'm leaning towards at this point is the pressure switch. When the isolating switch is ON, the pressure switch has 12v, and when the isolating switch is OFF, the pressure switch has no power. Also, when I was going these tests I had the orange and blue wires that go to IGN and ILLUM hooked directly to the battery, so everything that should see 12v had it.

Does it sound like a pressure switch issue?

It is an RDCKA 12V on a BJ60.

 

[KingSpence]

I went back out and put 12v directly to the compressor. With the compressor running, when I'm flipping my front and rear lockers on and off I can hear the "ptshh" of the solenoids releasing the air from the lines, but only the front locker solenoid, not the rear.

 

[Jeeper]

Are you 100% sure the lockers are not engaging? The compressor is supposed to run for about 20 sec and then shut off since the pressure switch cuts it off. If the compressor remains turned on at the switch, it will cycle on/off as needed to maintain pressure in the system. So the cycling you mentioned is also normal. If the system is already pressurized, and you flip the switch to ON, the compressor won't run as designed.

I can't really tell from your description, but it may be worth checking to see if your lockers are actually working correctly. If not, check the air lines for leaks.

 

[KingSpence]

-I tried flipping around the switches to check for a bad switch.
-I tried switching plugs on the solenoids from the switches. No luck.

 

[Dave 2000]

Properly installed air lockers will cycle the compressor perhaps once a minute r even less? The pfft from the solenoids will be reduced if there is gear oil in the line, are both solenoid exhausts dry? Disconnect the solenoids and check them individually, IIRC the ARB harness prevents the front diff from engaging unless the rear switch is 'on'.

If you simply short the pressure switch for a few seconds the pump should run all the time, but when connected the pump will run perhaps ten seconds before cutting out, try pulling a pipe from each of the solenoids one at a time, with the solenoid switched on the pump will run all the time.

Hope that helps

regards

Dave

 

[lshobie]

So either the switch is toast, you didn't wire the switch properly or the solenoid is toast. Try hooking power to the solenoid to se what happens.

 

[KingSpence]

I have 12v at each plug to the solenoids. I also have a new solinoid, but could not hear anything inside it engaging/disengaging when I was flipping the switches. And like I said before, I switched the switches around and nothing changed, so the switches must be fine.

I'm going to install my new solenoid and I'll update my thread.

 

[rockclmbr]

My ARB Compressor went kaput. I'm pretty sure the moisture that got inside several years ago destroyed the coil winding portion as I took the entire thing apart and it looked like a rusty mess. Prior to this I had been blowing 30A fuses everytime I turned the compressor switch on. To isolate the issue, I connected the compressor directly to the battery with a 30A fuse, fuse would blow. Without the fuse, the wires would melt. No stroke from the compressor at all. I'm way out of the warranty period and I had this thing mounted as high as possible in the engine bay near the master cylinder. What alternatives to the ARB compressor have people installed to be used with ARB lockers?

 

[Tools R Us]

... What alternatives to the ARB compressor have people installed to be used with ARB lockers?

Any tank/pressure switched type compressor will work. Some use the Puma with good result, they are pretty powerful compressors, air up quickly and run small air tools. They are about the same $$$ as the ARB, but much more output, so a great bang for the buck.

 

[nudavinci64]

Old topic but was researching a similar issue. I found on a new harness (Was using a switch pro before) that the small diode they have shrink wrapped in the harness going to the switch was bad. Traced it all the way to the switch no power when tested on the yellow/red wire. Checking the red/yellow wire after the diode then it was hot. Opened it up basically fell part. Might have broken on opening but it was def not allowing power through. Touching both ends of the wire bypassing the diode compressor started back up. Something to check if you know its setup correct but switching on gets nothing

What I was curious of, if I am running directly to the battery does that diode even matter since its there to protect sensitive electronics. I cant imagine the the battery is sensitive compared to ignition fuses, etc.