Anyone want to get rid of an ABS pump? Pretty sure mine's dead...
- Thread starter gorbilax
- Start date
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Check the classifieds... or a local junkyard... or Ebay. Or buy new... 44510-60010 Genuine Toyota ACTUATOR Assembly, Brake - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~actuator~assy~brake~44510-60010.html
I was hoping someone with a recent ABS delete might be willing to let one go cheap. I will keep an eye out in classifieds though.
I posted the following on another thread (ABS DTC code 51 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/abs-dtc-code-51.752799/page-2) but am sharing it here as well as this thread came up in searches:
I wanted to share a relatively easy fix for code 51 that may apply in some situations. On my '97 I noticed the ABS light earlier today and pulled the codes after a general inspection and test of the CDL, etc. The code that came back was 51 so I then hot-wired the abs pump to see if it would turn over with direct power applied. This is something that I do during brake bleeding so I was familiar with how the pump should sound. When I hot-wired the pump the sound/feel of the pump lead me to believe that motor was ok electrically but blocked mechanically, which turned out to be the case.
I pulled the ABS pump and then removed the electrical motor housing which revealed rust scale that had lodged between the magnets and motors armature, thus physically locking the motor. There's a picture below of the cover after removal and before cleaning.
I cleaned the rust out, applied rust converter then re-assembled and installed the pump which works fine again. Hardest parts of the job were probably getting the rust scale out, which was sticking because of the the housing being magnetic, and then of course bleeding the brakes which always seems to take me a few large bottles of fluid before the pedal feels right again.
I wanted to share a relatively easy fix for code 51 that may apply in some situations. On my '97 I noticed the ABS light earlier today and pulled the codes after a general inspection and test of the CDL, etc. The code that came back was 51 so I then hot-wired the abs pump to see if it would turn over with direct power applied. This is something that I do during brake bleeding so I was familiar with how the pump should sound. When I hot-wired the pump the sound/feel of the pump lead me to believe that motor was ok electrically but blocked mechanically, which turned out to be the case.
I pulled the ABS pump and then removed the electrical motor housing which revealed rust scale that had lodged between the magnets and motors armature, thus physically locking the motor. There's a picture below of the cover after removal and before cleaning.
I cleaned the rust out, applied rust converter then re-assembled and installed the pump which works fine again. Hardest parts of the job were probably getting the rust scale out, which was sticking because of the the housing being magnetic, and then of course bleeding the brakes which always seems to take me a few large bottles of fluid before the pedal feels right again.
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