Another HG replacement

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Joined
Jul 21, 2004
Threads
11
Messages
51
HG blew at 140k on my 94. 15 hours into the replacement, this is what I've got:

hgenginebayzq2.jpg


And here's the failed HG around cylinder #6:

hgcloseupum7.jpg


I was surprised to see the total failure of the fire ring.

Between the good support from CDan and Doug's helpful video, its really not that difficult of a project. For me the most difficult part was disconnecting the rusty exhaust downpipe studs and actually pulling the head off (used a engine hoist by myself).

Anybody know what the impact of leaving the EGR parts off? The EGR pipe is a PITA in an already very crowded area. If I blocked off the EGR port on the head, could it do any damage to the engine? I'm not as concerned about emissions, as my county (Larimer in Colorado) is dropping testing next year.

Hopefully when the head comes back from the shop, I can put this all back together a little faster than it came apart:D

Paul in Windsor, Colorado
 
Hopefully when the head comes back from the shop, I can put this all back together a little faster than it came apart:D

Paul in Windsor, Colorado

So when you all are sending these off to the shop, what exactly are you asking them to do with it?? Is it like a haircut... I want a number 3 on top and a number 2 on the sides?

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
Am I missing something or does that look like the updated gasket?
 
Disregard statement above. I just looked at the fire ring style again......
 
HG blew at 140k on my 94. 15 hours into the replacement, this is what I've got:

hgenginebayzq2.jpg


And here's the failed HG around cylinder #6:

hgcloseupum7.jpg


I was surprised to see the total failure of the fire ring.

Between the good support from CDan and Doug's helpful video, its really not that difficult of a project. For me the most difficult part was disconnecting the rusty exhaust downpipe studs and actually pulling the head off (used a engine hoist by myself).

Anybody know what the impact of leaving the EGR parts off? The EGR pipe is a PITA in an already very crowded area. If I blocked off the EGR port on the head, could it do any damage to the engine? I'm not as concerned about emissions, as my county (Larimer in Colorado) is dropping testing next year.

Hopefully when the head comes back from the shop, I can put this all back together a little faster than it came apart:D

Paul in Windsor, Colorado

Did it overheat?
 
Wow! Same thing happened to mine, except it wasn't that drastic. Just a little leak from the "left" triangular coolant holes into the #6 cylinder. Blew at 132,xxx miles.

We just disconnected several wiring harnesses from the back and removed the head along with the intake plenums. The plenums are getting "hot tanked" as well.
 
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I'm not sure how bad it overheated. It certainly got hotter than normal, as the AC was cutting in and out. At one point sitting at a red light, the temp needle came up to just under the red, but dropped back down as soon as I was moving again. By the time I got home, it was idling rough and I saw bubbles in the overflow tank: welcome to the HG club:rolleyes:

As far as the head work, I called a recommended shop (Mountain Performance near Denver) and explained my situation. They suggested a 3 angle valve grind, cleaning, new seals, and whatever milling was needed to flatten it out. They will also reset the valve clearances for me so that I just need to drop the cams back in and go instead of messing around with the valve lash spacers. Unless it actually needs a new valve, the estimate is $400.

I suppose if this only happens once every 150k miles I could live with it (I only put on about 15k miles per year), but I sure don't think this 80 is as reliable as my old 60 series was. That 2F was a dog, but a very reliable one.
 
Curious how they check the clearances with the cams out.

They're getting the cams and bearing caps as well as the head.
 
I'm not sure how bad it overheated. It certainly got hotter than normal, as the AC was cutting in and out. At one point sitting at a red light, the temp needle came up to just under the red, but dropped back down as soon as I was moving again. By the time I got home, it was idling rough and I saw bubbles in the overflow tank: welcome to the HG club:rolleyes:

As far as the head work, I called a recommended shop (Mountain Performance near Denver) and explained my situation. They suggested a 3 angle valve grind, cleaning, new seals, and whatever milling was needed to flatten it out. They will also reset the valve clearances for me so that I just need to drop the cams back in and go instead of messing around with the valve lash spacers. Unless it actually needs a new valve, the estimate is $400.

I suppose if this only happens once every 150k miles I could live with it (I only put on about 15k miles per year), but I sure don't think this 80 is as reliable as my old 60 series was. That 2F was a dog, but a very reliable one.

Just got a call from my friend who I'm helping do the HG job. Machine shop cost for mine is a whopping $575.50. That's "like new" condition they said.
 
I suppose if this only happens once every 150k miles I could live with it (I only put on about 15k miles per year), but I sure don't think this 80 is as reliable as my old 60 series was. That 2F was a dog, but a very reliable one.

The way I understand it, the new gasket should be good for about 300k because of the updated design...
As far as reliability, more moving parts generally equals less reliability, but in this case, I think the trade off between the 60 and the 80 is well worth it...
Good luck with the HG,
Dan
 
Just got a call from my friend who I'm helping do the HG job. Machine shop cost for mine is a whopping $575.50. That's "like new" condition they said.


Have you bought your replacement PHH hose yet? If not, I just bought a foot of the silicone stuff ($9) and will have plenty left for another PHH. You want a 60mm piece? The constant torque clamps are friggin expensive ($4 each), but I don't ever want to mess with that hose ever again:mad:
 
Have you bought your replacement PHH hose yet? If not, I just bought a foot of the silicone stuff ($9) and will have plenty left for another PHH. You want a 60mm piece? The constant torque clamps are friggin expensive ($4 each), but I don't ever want to mess with that hose ever again:mad:

Yeah, I'm good on the PHH. Have had the silicone one on there for a while now. I'm replacing the rest of the hoses with factory Toyota ones. So far, I'm about $1,050 more or less, into the HG job right now.
 
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