Another CDL stuck problem

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So, I'm posting this for my brother. He has a 95 LC, locked x 3. His CDL is stuck on. 4h and 4l, CDL light is on. ABS light is on also, but he stated that it's been on for a while. He's checked fuses, put in a new actuator, no help. Also, for some reason, he says that he can engage his rear locker in 4h. In 4h and 4l, the front will not lock, only gets the flashing light. No pin 7 mod, no other wiring mods. Any tips or leads? He's tried searching on here, and so have I (a little). Being able to engage the rear in 4h has me stumped.
 
So, I'm posting this for my brother. He has a 95 LC, locked x 3. His CDL is stuck on. 4h and 4l, CDL light is on. ABS light is on also, but he stated that it's been on for a while. He's checked fuses, put in a new actuator, no help. Also, for some reason, he says that he can engage his rear locker in 4h. In 4h and 4l, the front will not lock, only gets the flashing light. No pin 7 mod, no other wiring mods. Any tips or leads? He's tried searching on here, and so have I (a little). Being able to engage the rear in 4h has me stumped.

First, is the CDL actually locked or is the light just on? Is there binding in tight turns on asphalt? The switch might just be stuck in the "on" position on the transfer case, seems that most of them fail in the off position though. If the CDL is really locked, he would need to troubleshoot and see if the actuator is getting a signal all the time to lock the diff or if it is just physically stuck.

From what i've seen, the f&r diffs just look for the CDL to be engaged before they engage. So, if his light is stuck on, he can lock the diffs in high range now.
This issue with the front diff just flashing sounds like a separate issue, as in the actuator might be malfuntioning up there.
 
First, is the CDL actually locked or is the light just on? Is there binding in tight turns on asphalt? The switch might just be stuck in the "on" position on the transfer case, seems that most of them fail in the off position though. If the CDL is really locked, he would need to troubleshoot and see if the actuator is getting a signal all the time to lock the diff or if it is just physically stuck.

From what i've seen, the f&r diffs just look for the CDL to be engaged before they engage. So, if his light is stuck on, he can lock the diffs in high range now.
This issue with the front diff just flashing sounds like a separate issue, as in the actuator might be malfuntioning up there.

The CDL IS for sure locked (stuck on) and will not turn off when placed into 4H. He replaced the actuator with a new one.
 
Matt put a new indicator switch in it, not a new actuator. You can engage the rear locker in high range if the transfer case is locked. The indicator switch tells the brain whether or not the transfer case is locked. He was planning on parting the truck out last night instead of fixing it, so I really didn't look into it any more.
 
It could be the actuator. I've heard that the CDL actuator is the same actuator that is used on the differential locks. I've fixed my diff lock actuator after the motor magnets fell off. Has anyone had this same issue/fix with the CDL actuator?
 
YC....check your pm's please. I must have understood him wrong, thought he said he got a new actuator. That would make sense now that I think about it. He needs to start with that if it's not the indicator switch. Make sure it cycles, etc. Could the V.C. possibly have fused/failed and kept the thing stuck with the CDL light on?
 
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Try tapping on the actuator with a hammer while cycling it with a 9v battery at the harness with wire leads of some sort. Might help to have two people. If it doesnt work maybe try doing it while rocking/pushing the truck back and forth in gear. My CDL was stuck and would not engage and after working it this way for awhile it came back to life. Not sure if this would work for it sticking on. My last wheeling experience my rear locker got stuck on and just would not disengage. Had my buddy cycle the switch while I tapped on the actuator....moving truck back and forth....driving in circles ....repeating....it finally unlocked and worked great the rest of the day with the switch.
Also when I did my 7 pin mod my (I think) BLUE wire that is supposed to be cut to do mod was ALREADY shorted. Maybe you can check the reading on that computer module.
 
Fixed it. The actuator was stuck/siezed. I removed the actuator, and found that while cycling the motor, the pinion gear would not move. There is an o ring type seal on the pinion gear bushing. There are two torsion springs inside the actuator that connect the motor gear to the output gear, which is why the motor would cycle both ways, but the output pinion gear wouldn't move. All that was really needed was some labor to disassemble the actuator, lube, and reassemble. The first time I installed the actuator back in, it would cycle from lock to unlock, but the indicator (CDL) on the dash was staying on. On the road, I had to put the vehicle in reverse to get the CDL to unlock, but the CDL light was still on. I then removed the actuator, reached in the Tcase, and manually put it in unlock. I cycled the actuator to the unlock position and re-installed. Works perfect now.
 
Fixed it. The actuator was stuck/siezed. I removed the actuator, and found that while cycling the motor, the pinion gear would not move. There is an o ring type seal on the pinion gear bushing. There are two torsion springs inside the actuator that connect the motor gear to the output gear, which is why the motor would cycle both ways, but the output pinion gear wouldn't move. All that was really needed was some labor to disassemble the actuator, lube, and reassemble. The first time I installed the actuator back in, it would cycle from lock to unlock, but the indicator (CDL) on the dash was staying on. On the road, I had to put the vehicle in reverse to get the CDL to unlock, but the CDL light was still on. I then removed the actuator, reached in the Tcase, and manually put it in unlock. I cycled the actuator to the unlock position and re-installed. Works perfect now.

I'm having a similar issue and suspect the actuator to be stuck/siezed as well. My issue is the actual removing of the actuator assembly. I cannot seem to pry it off the the tcase. Is there a certain spot that is easier than another to pry it off from? Thanks.
 
I usually grab the motor with a hand and use a small hammer to lightly tap the body of it. That was a year ago though. Hopefully, someone will chime in that's done it recently.
 

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