Just bought a cruiser (my lifelong dream) and am getting started on fixing it up. I bought it for $2300, has ome 2.5 in. lift, dunlop 33" mudders, hardtop, 2f engine, and aluminum tub. What I was wondering is, which is better, a steel or aluminum tub. What are advantages, disadvantages of aluminum vs. steel? How much would it cost for materials (paint, primer, etc) to paint my cruiser (my buddy has all the equip, so i would do it with him). Thanks for your help!
Aluminum tub vs. Steel Tub
- Thread starter davidt
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As far as I know (which isnt far) Steel is subject to rust, is heavier, stronger and cheaper. Aluminum is lighter and more expensive. I would go with the aluminum tub personally. I have a original steel tub and am going to try to fix it up rather than buy a new tub or swap it out for a better conditioned one.
Steel is actually more expensive than aluminum. I think the steel tub is about $1000. Steel is heavier, but pound for pound aluminum is stronger. The aluminum tub is aobut 175lbs I believe. it's a great bolt on upgrade for a rusted out cruiser. Some of the purists don't like them and I'm not sure what it does to resale value in the long run. Probably brings it down a bit I imagine. I'm puting in an aluminum tub here shortly but I'm planning on keeping the beast so I don't care about the resale value really. One of the downsides of an aluminum tub is the ability to fix dents and dings. As far as painting it goes I don't think there his a huge price difference between painting steel and aluminum. a good paint shop should be able to make sure you get the right primer etc. Good luck. Post some pics.
By reading your post...I'm thinking you've already got an aluminum tub. Keep it that way. Don't be too concerned about resale value, because I can promise you, you won't get out of it what you put into it. Just enjoy it.
As far as painting it goes; any local auto parts supplier (not an auto-walmart like autozone) but usually a NAPA store, can run you through all the necessities needed for painting. I've purchased all kinds of painting supplies from them, as well as primer and color. Check with a local store before you hit up a shop. (your friend with the equipment should come in handy when shopping for supplies)
Depending on the condition of your current paint job, you'll need a good sandable primer, some filler (for small dings and gouges; don't fill large holes with it) and a rust curing agent. I used Ospho on my 45LV. Coat the living hell out of it with rust agents...the chemicals need a little rust to react with, so don't waste all your elbow grease on the small stuff.
And, again, post some pics before you get banned.
As far as painting it goes; any local auto parts supplier (not an auto-walmart like autozone) but usually a NAPA store, can run you through all the necessities needed for painting. I've purchased all kinds of painting supplies from them, as well as primer and color. Check with a local store before you hit up a shop. (your friend with the equipment should come in handy when shopping for supplies)
Depending on the condition of your current paint job, you'll need a good sandable primer, some filler (for small dings and gouges; don't fill large holes with it) and a rust curing agent. I used Ospho on my 45LV. Coat the living hell out of it with rust agents...the chemicals need a little rust to react with, so don't waste all your elbow grease on the small stuff.
And, again, post some pics before you get banned.
One issue with aluminum, not yet mentioned, is the wiring one. You can't ground through aluminum, so you have to adjust and ground wire to proper spots.
grounding
I have an aluminum tub and have had no troubles with painting the tub. Just use the proper self etching primer and matching paint. Napa can walk you through it. As far as grounding it is not an issue, you can ground to the aluminum tube, such as the license plate lights and anything else you need. Mine works no problem. I work out of ambulances for a living and they are aluminum and items are grounded to the box and the paint can be fixed by any shop in our area.
One note about the tube is the weight, I needed to take out a couple of leaf springs from my Pinnicle lift to make the ride softer. I am not running the stock top. Good luck.
I have an aluminum tub and have had no troubles with painting the tub. Just use the proper self etching primer and matching paint. Napa can walk you through it. As far as grounding it is not an issue, you can ground to the aluminum tube, such as the license plate lights and anything else you need. Mine works no problem. I work out of ambulances for a living and they are aluminum and items are grounded to the box and the paint can be fixed by any shop in our area.
One note about the tube is the weight, I needed to take out a couple of leaf springs from my Pinnicle lift to make the ride softer. I am not running the stock top. Good luck.
Really! I had heard otherwise. Maybe I was thinking of glass. Yeah. That's it. Sorry!
An aluminum tub will kill resale value, just based on watching fj40 sales on eBay and elsewhere. I note a differential of 2K-4K dollars in resale, based on a couple of years of watching. YMMV.
If you've already got an aluminum tub, stick with it.
Body man tells me that steel is far easier to work on, as far as slicing out damage and splicing in new material.
When it was time for me to do my frame-off restoration, I evaluated both options, and decided to stick with having the old tub torn down to it's individual pieces, cancer removed and new steel spliced in, and then having the tub reassembled, blasted to bare metal, then treated with high-zinc coating. It cost more, but will be "true to the original intent", in the long run.
If I could have had it hot-dipped in zinc, I would have...
Kirk
If you've already got an aluminum tub, stick with it.
Body man tells me that steel is far easier to work on, as far as slicing out damage and splicing in new material.
When it was time for me to do my frame-off restoration, I evaluated both options, and decided to stick with having the old tub torn down to it's individual pieces, cancer removed and new steel spliced in, and then having the tub reassembled, blasted to bare metal, then treated with high-zinc coating. It cost more, but will be "true to the original intent", in the long run.
If I could have had it hot-dipped in zinc, I would have...
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #9
sounds good..a little more
I am picking it up tommorow, I will try and post pics then. I have to drive it all the way from WA to NV (about 12 hrs). I was just reading this article http://store.yahoo.com/coolfj40/tubchoicpros.html
and didn't know if it held any water...let me know what you think. I appreciate the kindness you are showing to a newbie like me, it is touching. Also, where is a good place to pick up parts for cruisers (I am a poor college kid). Thnx.
I am picking it up tommorow, I will try and post pics then. I have to drive it all the way from WA to NV (about 12 hrs). I was just reading this article http://store.yahoo.com/coolfj40/tubchoicpros.html
and didn't know if it held any water...let me know what you think. I appreciate the kindness you are showing to a newbie like me, it is touching. Also, where is a good place to pick up parts for cruisers (I am a poor college kid). Thnx.
When I win the lottery, I'll start making replacement tubs from stainless steel!
Best of all possible worlds, right?
Kirk
Best of all possible worlds, right?
Kirk
- Joined
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If you bolt anything made of steel to the aluminum I would use stainless steel bolts and put some sort of gasket or paint between the parts. Aluminum and Fe don't play well together .
Dianna said:You sure it's an aluminum tub? Looks like diamond plate to me! Guess you could cover an aluminum tub in diamondplate... interesting
FYI....Aqualu(B.C.) has been making Aluminum "Diamond Plate Finish" tubs for years.
I'm planning on getting a AL tub someday.............something else to use the TIG on!
rocky mountain cruisers have everything you'll need, whether it be fiberglass (under 2k), aluminum (under 3k), or steel tubs (over 3k)... or simply replacement parts that can be welded (ie; the sill, floor, quarter panels, etc.). i believe CCOT has a deal where you can get the quarter panel replacements and two front fenders for $500... but i've also heard that their front fenders suck and sag a lot. who knows really...
jtoutfitters says that an aluminum tub increases value, but most want to stay faithful to steel... i had a guy here in town tell me that when he restored his, he dropped it in an acid bath which took out all the cancer, then started adding in new steel.... this sounds like the best way to go about it.
i'm curious about how people are treating steel now when they do their frame up restorations. also, how long does it last if treated right?
jtoutfitters says that an aluminum tub increases value, but most want to stay faithful to steel... i had a guy here in town tell me that when he restored his, he dropped it in an acid bath which took out all the cancer, then started adding in new steel.... this sounds like the best way to go about it.
i'm curious about how people are treating steel now when they do their frame up restorations. also, how long does it last if treated right?
