Alternator Question

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Oct 5, 2003
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The eternal Dual Battery Saga continues...... :D

Here are some pics of my alt. I am just wondering what I am to do with the black wire that has a fuse holder (but no fuse) on it and the wire that plugs back into the alt pick the plastic connection. The schematics that I am looking at does not address any of these wires so I am a bit confused. Could you point me in the right direction please. :cheers:
 
Its an Delco Alt by the way. The orange wire is the fusible link running to the main batter (soon the isolator) , the black wire has the fuse in it (again,no fuse) and it runs into the cab with another bundle (I think) and the red wire seems to be the regulater feed back off the + post on the alt.

Thanks again for your help. Dan :bounce:
 
Come on. Help me out!!! :D
 
:flipoff2: Thanks thorvald! :flipoff2:

Now the question that arises is whether it is possible to utilize remote sensing of a 3 wire alt from the junction box AND use the isolater. SurePower doesn't mention this in any of thier tech articles but it seems kinda important. Guess I better keep looking for my answers. I'll post what I find to continue the wonderful thread on me interacting with me :D
 
Dan,

I have an excellent write-up on adapting a GM alt for a Cruiser. The link where I found it is gone. PM me w/ your fax number and I'll fax it to you.

Harry
 
With an isolator charging 2 batteries I am not sure that using a remote sensor at the main junction will alter charge voltage since it has to go through the isolator. I have also heard that there is a 1v drop at the isolator so I need to figure how to bypass that. Perhaps placing sensor on the battery itself may increase the charge thus compensating for the drop across the isolator???? When there is increase draw from the main junction then the battery voltage will drop and if it senses this it should increase charge from the alt--right? These are more questions than statements. Someone steer me straight.

Thanks.
 
Surepower, as well as other manufacturer's, manufacture isolators specific to the regulation system that the alternator utilizes. Why? Very simply, the amount of voltage dropped through the isolator will cause the regulator to charge at an incorrect level because it's not sensing battery voltage, it's sensing battery voltage less the drop through the isolator which is usually .5 to 1 volt. As such, there are a couple choices: buy an isolator designed for an "A" circuit regulator and get over the wasted power being thrown away through the isolator, or (our preference) wait until our MOBI-POWER Isolator hits the market where you can take advantage of new technology that eliminates losses found on traditional silicon and schottkey isolators.
 
Isn't there some way I can fool the alternator into ramping up the voltage. I am not sure what a "A" circuit regulator is--I'd love your system but $$ is a factor and since I picked up this isolator for $26 it makes more sense at this time.

So how do I fool the alternator. Can I place the remote sensor on the + terminal to ramp up the response? What do you suggest?
 
On a non 1-wire unit, I would think it's possible, but I can't be sure of the procedure. A good auto-electrical outfit should be able to advise you, as should the isolator manufacturer.

Scott
 
with some hunting, you'll find a SurePower conversion kit that pushes power back to the alt to sense it....took me some searching too, since my old alt setup wasn't an issue, but the new TBI alt operated differently.
 
With a 3 wire alternator doesn't it make sense that simply putting the sensing wire on the battery (downstream of the isolator) would work?
 
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