All purpose trailer build (1 Viewer)

[Quinton]

I have been want to build a trailer for years as i drive a 4runner and i am always needing to haul kayaks,tree stands,camping gear,kids stuff and runs to the lumber yard etc.
I dont think i am running a top as i need it for all around use but i may change my mind.
It is 48.5x6.5 inside the box so i can haul plywood and also sleep in it if needed.Will have nutserts and tiedown in multiple areas
I do know it would ride better with longer springs but it should work for my use.Im running 6 lug dexter 3500 axle and matching fj wheels and tires without spacers,thule adjustable rack,adjustable tounge,brakes and hopefully line x if i can afford it.
Im just a average joe and thought i would share the progress.I appreciate all the builds on here for there inspiration and tips

 

[REZARF]

Looks great, look into raptor liner and do it yourself.

I would suggest the longest springs you can fit. It makes a HUGE difference.

 

[ntsqd]

And shocks!

 

[Quinton]

I would like to change to longer spring but i will have to keep the short trailer springs for now.
Will shocks help those enough to justify them? Thanks

 

[ntsqd]

Not really. Trailer springs are deliberately short so that they do not deflect much under load. If they don't move much they don't need much damping. When you go to longer springs you'll need the damping then.

 

[REZARF]

Yup, you're trailer is going to bounce with those springs... it will not stay in contact with the road on rough terrain. It'll work but don't be shocked when it bounces around behind you. Go to a junk yard and pull a set of Toyota pickup springs. I'd bet you get a pair for under $50.

 

[Quinton]

What springs will work with the small trailer axle spring pad,toyota truck,cj etc?

 

[REZARF]

Can you weld? Nearly any spring pack could work. You can pull leaves until the spring rate “feels” right. Just jot down what vehicle you yanked them off of. Any lightweight small pickup will work well. Pull the shackles and bushings while you’re there. Or add shocks to you setup and enjoy it. It’s your rig, run it how you want and upgrade if you can’t stand it

 

[Quinton]

I want some input,i have my main box tacked together and put the adjustable rack on.
1.I welded the 1x3 top rail with the majority hanging to the inside,seems to look better to me because its similar to a pickup bed.
2.The thule rack adjust up and down 29 inches so i can haul my canoe under it on top of bed and tailgate and haul two kayaks on top.To kayaks on top with the rack all the way down will get the most use.I can mount two ways,one with the thule telescoping arms inside the bed or outside the bed.Inside they take up a little room,out side there exposed to more damage.
I just need some extra eyes to look it over because im sure im missing something.

 

[Quinton]

I like inside because after skinning the outside it will look cleaner,but in does take up some room.

 

[e9999]

Very nice work. And looks very sturdy.
I would consider putting the telescoping arms outside. Best to have a clean box inside so you can fit wider pieces, strap stuff more easily, and less risk to have it be banged up on something hard if it slides around.
I would prefer the top rail with the lip outside. You can then use it as a place to hang stuff from and tie ratchet straps to (although dedicated fixed loops are better for that).
I have put Unistruts on all my top rails (and on the floor) so I can move eyebolts around for straps, attach crossmembers etc. Very convenient and highly modular.

 

[bkeegan1974]

Hi - I plan on building a trailer with almost exactly your dimensions, also towed by a 4Runner (2015). Mind sharing where you got your axle and its dimensions? How tall is your cargo area? Everything looking great so far! will be following your build

 

[Quinton]

49 inch spring center and 67 hub face to hub face.Im bolt toyota wheels to axle with 1/2 20 lug nuts.
Its a dexter I ordered thru a local trailer manufacturer that local.Cargo area with top rail is 21 3/4 tall.I went back and forth and for using it for all around use i didnt want it to be to tall,i wanted to be able to reach in all the way to the floor.I can always add height with a lid but i dont see that happening.Plus it looks better than when i had at 24.I am looking into the 31 inch lighter weight leaf springs that camping concepts sales but i want to weigh it first. Thanks

 

[ntsqd]

I wasn't going to say anything because it is done, but if someone is going to copy this trailer this needs to be said. Ideally the tongue would be Under the rest of the frame, not thru it. Most of these light trailers can get away with doing it thru, but if they ever got truly loaded to capacity they are at risk of bending the tongue at the front cross-member. Books on trailer design spend a good deal of time on tongue design because it is crucial to performance & longevity. Unfortunately the trailers that are copied and re-copied were done wrong and it perpetuates the error.

 

[Quinton]

I dont doubt you a bit but i did have a trailer manufacturing company (starlight) build the main frame,they have been doing tailers for decades.My side rails and tounge are all one piece with a pie cut out as well.
Thanks for the advise.

 

[ntsqd]

Not the first time that I've seen it done that way by a commercial mfg. The amount of risk is entirely dependent on how heavily loaded the trailer might ever be. Note that the M416 and Canadian M101 1/4 ton rated trailers have their tongues under the main frame. Who knows what the GI's would do to them in the field, but that they would occasionally be over-loaded was a given.

 

[Quinton]

If we only knew what all they loaded them down with!

 

[ntsqd]

Oh, I can guess. A good friend calls them "Little Bundles of Joy" and he's not talking about Tricycle Motors.....

 

[Quinton]

A little more progress.
Would you worry about using weld thru primer between the sheet metal and frame work,its going to get fully primed,painted and bed liner sprayed?
Also i need to weld in a 2 inch rear receiver just to haul bikes or cargo carrier of wood.Sense the frame is two inches would you just weld under or would you notch the two inch about 1.5 inches up and weld it inside the rear crossmember?

 

[e9999]

Myself, I would put the receiver under the frame. You got plenty of ground clearance. No need to dig in (and maybe weaken) the frame, I think. Plus easier to modify later on. But I don't think I would weld it directly onto the frame, although that'd work, I'd probably bolt something on if it's only for lighter loads.