Air Conditioner Condenser Repair

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Oct 16, 2007
Hello Mudsters,

I have a 1997 LX450 and need to remove the air conditioning condensor. Can I get it out the front by removing the grill, or do I need to remove the rad. and take it out behind the rad cradle?
I hear the rad is a pain in the butt job.

I'd like to try and repair a leak near one of the line fittings since there is a bit of meat there. Any suggestions on what type of solder to use??

Failing that..any good places to buy a new condensor?

Thanks a bunch gang!
I had a run in with a F150 hitch.

From memory (from front to back) on my '97 LX450:
(1) transmission cooler,
(2) AC condensor,
(3) radiator.

I found it much easier to remove the grill, front valence. I also believe I had to remove the hood latch mechanism as well. Others may have done it differently.

Good luck.

Remember to get a new dryer as well.
Aluminum solder. It's leaking at a line connection, hmm. Is the o-ring any good? Did someone open the system up and overtighten the 10mm bolt/nut when putting it back together? The dryer location is bad for off roading too, it can get snagged. You can bend the aluminum lines on both ends to get them to line back up if the problem is a pinched o-ring. You won't need heat, just be careful.

I can find you a new condensor, but I don't stock them.
Thanks reconranger.
Are you saying the rad had to come out as well?
I'll get a new dryer as well...thanks for the heads up.

Thanks Tx Cruiser.
I was thinking of silver solder, but I'll check out the aluminum as well.
No it's not quite at the 0-ring connection, but I'll get a new one anyway.
Can you ship A Condensor to Canada, and what price are you looking at?

Thanks for the help.
You don't have to remove the radiator nor the trans cooler. The top member of the frame is bolt on - you remove it for access to the condenser. It was 5 12mm and about as many 10mm bolts to do so if I remember correctly. It is surprisingly easy to get to. Now the dryer is a PITA to get to - I removed the bumper to change it.

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