- Thread starter
- #21
I installed the oem from shackles and sent An email to Ironman.
After a "2"" lift install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ACACG8
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rhah
Admit it, your cruisers jealous
move your rear shackle perches in about an inch.... the leafs could be a solid inch longer and issue would go away but have seen this be an issue with the hell for stout lifts and shackles. moving the shackle hangers in an inch resolves the problem... i do it on the front and the rear for hell for stout lifts
Ok so you do have Ironman springs. Your front looks exactly like mine did, and the shackle angle is the same too. I talked to Chris Miller at Ironman and he sent out new fronts, I did go with the heavies up front the second time.
Chris Miller <miller@ironman4x4america.com>
Chris Miller <miller@ironman4x4america.com>
- Thread starter
- #24
The only reason I bought longer shackles was to see if I could get it to sit a bit more level but even with longer shackles it still has a lot of rake.
I plan on selling the landcruiser once all this is sorted. I just don’t wanna modify too much or hack anything up.
It’s their 2” performance lift kit. I took the hfs front shackles off today and put the stock ones onto take the pics so they can see how much of a rake it has. I called them today and sent the pics. Hope to hear back soon.
rhah
Admit it, your cruisers jealous
took a fair amount of work to get him to sit level.... typically i go with whoevers heavy rear springs and HFS shackles and move the perches.... everyones springs seem to be a little short and all seem to cause bad angles once you hit the 2 inch mark and add the hell for stout shackles
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- #26
Well. They told me to just drive it. “It will settle after 5000 miles”
this is so annoying
WTF...hopefully you sent that photo to those numbnuts. That kind of sh*t really pisses me off. C’mon Chris!!
Oh and that looks like the original factory spare tire under there, wonder if it has ever been dropped, cool artifact.
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- #28
All the photos I've share here I've emailed it to them.
I ended up moving the rear hanger for now (hate doing this but its totally reversible using bolts and 1 of the original rivet holes). I'll put it back after "5000" miles. Tired of using a prybar to bring that shackle back.
I'm going to put it on a trailer and haul it to the Texas coast this week. See if I can get it stuck at Saint Luis Pass
Did you take before and after measurements from center of hub to wheel well? Post those numbers up if you did. On mine I got 3" lift in the back and 0-1" on the front. I had measurements and pictures when I talked to them. Their front springs gave almost no lift which is not what I ordered so they're obligated to send correct springs. Measurements are important.
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- #30
I did take measurements but no pics. I was 1.25" front and 3.5" rears. I was excepting at least 2" front. This is the pic I sent them
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- #31
So I did move the hangers. But now it invertes the other direction. Probably too far forward now.
The original front rivet of the hanger is now the rear rivet/bolt(unsing bolts now) hole. The only reason I moved it that far was to not lose the side mount rivet as the body mount bracket is on the way.
Did you guys who move the hanger lose the side rivet? Did you cut that ear off? I don’t think it’s a safe option? Even if I weld it on. Thoughts?
The original front rivet of the hanger is now the rear rivet/bolt(unsing bolts now) hole. The only reason I moved it that far was to not lose the side mount rivet as the body mount bracket is on the way.
Did you guys who move the hanger lose the side rivet? Did you cut that ear off? I don’t think it’s a safe option? Even if I weld it on. Thoughts?
Bumping this thread as I just installed an iron Man medium weight lift on my friend's 62 and we are having all the problems described above.
Rear springs were so short we could barely get the shackles in. I actually had to put a load on the spring to lengthen it to make the shackle reach. So of course the rear shackles are at a horrible angle and inverting when loaded.
Also the fronts springs Don't appear to have raised it 2" in my estimation.
Unfortunately we had it jacked up to do knuckles and a whole bunch of other work long before the lift went on so I don't have before after measurements, which I always do before putting on a lift.
Not happy at all with this product.
My friend is calling iron Man to try to get it sorted. we'll see.
Rear springs were so short we could barely get the shackles in. I actually had to put a load on the spring to lengthen it to make the shackle reach. So of course the rear shackles are at a horrible angle and inverting when loaded.
Also the fronts springs Don't appear to have raised it 2" in my estimation.
Unfortunately we had it jacked up to do knuckles and a whole bunch of other work long before the lift went on so I don't have before after measurements, which I always do before putting on a lift.
Not happy at all with this product.
My friend is calling iron Man to try to get it sorted. we'll see.
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- Thread starter
- #33
Man I’ll never buy Ironman stuff again. The front I had to use a longer shackle to try to make it sit level. But I could only go so long on a shackle. I called and talked to some guy named “bubba”. No help.
The rear was such a pain I gave up and did what I could to level the truck. Move hanger back and forth and so on without hacking too much . Diff length shackles… you name it. I don’t wanna “weld it” in the right “place/location”. I like to make my mods reversible. Always looking out for the next buyer if I decide to sell.
They expect everyone to load the s*** out of it to make it work. Guess what?!
not everyone goes camping everyday and loads the crap out of their rig.
Rear shackle angles at ride height...
WTF?
Per my friend's research on which spring P/N to put on which side (probably from this thread) we put the the d/s marked one on the right side (what's up with that? driver's side is the left side here in the states...) with the worse angle.
I don't dare move the truck yet as it will immediately invert....
I also don't think removing a leaf will do enough to get the length correct, removing 2 might, then I'd imagine they will be too soft....
WTF?
Per my friend's research on which spring P/N to put on which side (probably from this thread) we put the the d/s marked one on the right side (what's up with that? driver's side is the left side here in the states...) with the worse angle.
I don't dare move the truck yet as it will immediately invert....
I also don't think removing a leaf will do enough to get the length correct, removing 2 might, then I'd imagine they will be too soft....
Also, it's absurd that an off the shelf, bolt on part would seemingly require you to do something so intense and out of the ordinary for the home mechanic like removing the riveted on suspension attachment point and reattaching it elsewhere to make the purchased product work properly.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
They expect everyone to load the s*** out of it to make it work. Guess what?!
I have never understood why the loading thing for these suspensions are even a thing. Assuming these trucks are capable of carrying around tons of gear warranting the need for springs that can be loaded up this way seems silly to me. Stock, these trucks can barely carry their own weight, much less the additional weight of the tons of gear required to press down on the springs enough to just get the thing to sit level. OME does it as well. I guess the argument could be made that its better to have to remove a leaf to level it than to add one at additional cost. But the assumption these trucks can carry really anything that would require the sort of spring strength offered by these companies has always confused me. It took a good bit of work to get my OME leveled out properly.
I really couldn't say how a manufacturer could miss the mark so badly as what's illustrated in those photos. Totally unusable. I have seen this with other folks in other threads getting the Ironman stuff. Its too bad. The springs look really stout otherwise. Hopefully they will make it right.
Response from Ironman....
"Sorry to hear of the frustration you are dealing with.
The 60 series can be a bit of a challenge, yes, the springs usually need to be compressed a bit to get them installed.
We can send you out a set of anti-inversion shackles to go with your kit.
Regarding the rake - you may have to remove a leaf from the rear pack to bring the rear down; or we might try installing an Add-a-leaf in the front packs. We are happy to send an add-a-leaf out to you at no charge if you would like to try this.
Again, sorry for the frustrations."
So they are telling us that the product as delivered doesn't work, to remove all 4 springs and remove/add springs to the pack.
Then to purchase anti inversion shackles.
My thoughts:
- Why is a 60 series "challenging"? leaf springs are 1910s technology, we can't manufacture them correctly (length, arc, stiffness) in 2022?
- For the home mechanic this would be a headache, for others, this will be an expense they are paying the shop/mechanic to fix. Having to remove and modify all 4 freshly installed spring packs @ $xxx/hour for trial and error on a $1200 kit?
- fronts: he bought the medium leaf packs, this truck has NO additional weight in the front, so it should sit higher than expected (perhaps), and should already be stiffer than needed until weight is added. Adding another leaf to get the advertised lift will stiffen it even more and make the ride suffer. Current front shackle angle looks good as is though.
- rears: the leafs as delivered as so short eye to eye we will have to load the spring to even be able to get the anti inversion shackle in there, and then it will have constant pressure on the inversion bolt against the frame until the leaf pack settles a lot. Again, removing the pack to remove a leaf (or fighting apart/together on the chassis), and trial and error with leafs to get it to a proper shackle angle, but then what have we done to the advertised load capacity?
In general, I think all the springs are manufactured/arched/designed improperly and the manufacturer is sidestepping the issue putting it on the consumer to fix.
I've installed Ironman lifts on 60s 70s 80s 100s and120s that seemed OK (aside from the awful green color) but this is lame. Seeing the results of others up thread while having no problem on other 60s Ironman installs makes me believe they have manufacturing issues.
"Sorry to hear of the frustration you are dealing with.
The 60 series can be a bit of a challenge, yes, the springs usually need to be compressed a bit to get them installed.
We can send you out a set of anti-inversion shackles to go with your kit.
Regarding the rake - you may have to remove a leaf from the rear pack to bring the rear down; or we might try installing an Add-a-leaf in the front packs. We are happy to send an add-a-leaf out to you at no charge if you would like to try this.
Again, sorry for the frustrations."
So they are telling us that the product as delivered doesn't work, to remove all 4 springs and remove/add springs to the pack.
Then to purchase anti inversion shackles.
My thoughts:
- Why is a 60 series "challenging"? leaf springs are 1910s technology, we can't manufacture them correctly (length, arc, stiffness) in 2022?
- For the home mechanic this would be a headache, for others, this will be an expense they are paying the shop/mechanic to fix. Having to remove and modify all 4 freshly installed spring packs @ $xxx/hour for trial and error on a $1200 kit?
- fronts: he bought the medium leaf packs, this truck has NO additional weight in the front, so it should sit higher than expected (perhaps), and should already be stiffer than needed until weight is added. Adding another leaf to get the advertised lift will stiffen it even more and make the ride suffer. Current front shackle angle looks good as is though.
- rears: the leafs as delivered as so short eye to eye we will have to load the spring to even be able to get the anti inversion shackle in there, and then it will have constant pressure on the inversion bolt against the frame until the leaf pack settles a lot. Again, removing the pack to remove a leaf (or fighting apart/together on the chassis), and trial and error with leafs to get it to a proper shackle angle, but then what have we done to the advertised load capacity?
In general, I think all the springs are manufactured/arched/designed improperly and the manufacturer is sidestepping the issue putting it on the consumer to fix.
I've installed Ironman lifts on 60s 70s 80s 100s and120s that seemed OK (aside from the awful green color) but this is lame. Seeing the results of others up thread while having no problem on other 60s Ironman installs makes me believe they have manufacturing issues.
I was having a similar issue when installing my ironman lift on my fj62. The driver side rear anti inversion shackle was invented (didn't grab any photos unfortunately).
However, after driving roughly 500 miles it did settle down to its correct position. I did buy the anti inversion shackles. So not sure if that has any difference on outcome. I did go with the performance leafs.
I didn't encounter any issues with installing the lift or needing to compresses the springs to get anything to align.
However, after driving roughly 500 miles it did settle down to its correct position. I did buy the anti inversion shackles. So not sure if that has any difference on outcome. I did go with the performance leafs.
I didn't encounter any issues with installing the lift or needing to compresses the springs to get anything to align.
Did you have to remove any leaves in the back from the pack as it arrived?
No I didn't remove anything from the leaf springs that I got.
