AFM......Urgent help needed!

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Ok, I am having an issue at the moment. I took off the cover of the AFM and now I am wondering.........are the wires supposed to be fused together? Let me clarify that, I know the pads need to be secured to the pad below, BUT, are the pads supposed to be touching one another? There is that funny curly piece of metal and on mine, each one seems to be touching the next tab. Does this make sense?


Oh yes, this is the culprit of my code 24.

Please, anyone who can post a picture or tell me what the tabs should be looking like would be greatly appr.

Thanks
Chans
 
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There is a thread here somewhere with pics of the inside of the AFM in it...
 
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Sacramento Ca.
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Sacramento Ca.
Is there a diagram of an upclose shot of who the tabs should look? Does anyone have this? Also, I just tried to start the beast and no luck. I then bent one of the metal curly tabs so that is was like a jumper from one tab to the other and it starts now. Still getting the code 24. I do know I am missing one of the metal curly tabs (from the tab that is closer to the engine if you were looking at it that way).............could this be the problem?
 
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He's the one giving advice in that thread. Seemed like he really knew the AFM inside and out. Try PM'ing him.
 
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He's the one giving advice in that thread. Seemed like he really knew the AFM inside and out. Try PM'ing him.

Cool, thanks. I just sent him a PM. Is there anyone else who might have an answer or really good picture up close of what I should be soldering back together.

Thanks,
Chans
 
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UPDATE..........due to frustration I went ahead and ripped off those little metal twisted tabs..........and the beast still runs!;)

The code 24 didnt go away nor did I expect that since I never figured out the problem. Anyway, took the beast out and it still drives like it did before and the dash still looks like a lit up christmas tree!:steer:
 
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4d,
Re your first post - no I don't think the tabs should be touching each other. They are likely shorting the ECU which prevents it from delivering a spark from the igniter. They should be soldered to the contact directly below on the circuit board. The pics in the link posted by CJF show the general idea.

By ripping all the tabs off you probably have the ECU in "limp home" mode. When I accidentally ripped the guts out of my AFM, the truck wouldn't start (no spark generated) and wouldn't show a check engine light with the ignition on due to the short inside the AFM. Once I figured out the reason I was able to re-solder the connections and I've been using the repaired AFM since November.
 
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Messages
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Which lights are on?

ABS due to front right sensor is disconnected
Check Engine light due to code 24 (which is a hard one to track down) or once in a while the code 83, 84, 85 etc (and I have the newer ECU)
O/D light on due to having the button in since driving around town
PWR button due to wanting a bit more pep out of the beast

That is all I can think of, oh wait, the oil button comes on once in a while due to the beast eating it up (just once in a while, say every 2500 miles of soo)

:beer:
 
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Messages
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4d,
Re your first post - no I don't think the tabs should be touching each other. They are likely shorting the ECU which prevents it from delivering a spark from the igniter. They should be soldered to the contact directly below on the circuit board. The pics in the link posted by CJF show the general idea.

By ripping all the tabs off you probably have the ECU in "limp home" mode. When I accidentally ripped the guts out of my AFM, the truck wouldn't start (no spark generated) and wouldn't show a check engine light with the ignition on due to the short inside the AFM. Once I figured out the reason I was able to re-solder the connections and I've been using the repaired AFM since November.


Thanks for the clarification on this. I was seriously lost early today on this matter. The beast drives like it normally would, BUT, I will figure out a way to to put those little tabs back in there. :hmm:

I did go out today and purchase a solder gun (cordless, pretty damn sweet!) but after about 45 minutes, I gave up due to solder not sticking to the tabs. That is when I got frustrated and took the needle nose pliers to it and took those damn bent up tabs out. :frown:
 

Lka1988

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I did go out today and purchase a solder gun (cordless, pretty damn sweet!) but after about 45 minutes, I gave up due to solder not sticking to the tabs. That is when I got frustrated and took the needle nose pliers to it and took those damn bent up tabs out. :frown:

Uh-oh.

How many tabs did you rip off? All three?
 

Lka1988

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4d-

This may help you out. I highlighted the tabs in the picture, from a AFM that has had the innards pulled out... They are supposed to be flat, with some sort of spot-weld attaching them to the board.
100_1485.JPG
 
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