don't try to run a power master without a booster, depth of the hole isn't enough to keep the pushrod in place. I've got the 81' monte carlo calipers in the rear and I went with a minitruck front end conversion. However I upgraded to the vented rotors and the V6 larger calipers. The how-to on the upgrade is in the tech section. I figured I'd try the supra regulator first and get the adjustable one if needed. So far I don't think I need it.
Adding power brakes
- Thread starter Drummerboy
- Start date
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Quick questions for those who replumbed their hard brake lines, where did you get that metric 10mmx1mm fittings? how about the brake lines?
Thanks.
/td
Thanks.
/td
NAPA Auto parts has pre-flared lines with two fitting in different lengths.......
PMK
PMK
My '66 has oddball fittings, and my lines are rusted to heck, so I'm considering just changing all of them out to new SAE fittings, since the rears and M/C will be 'merican. My local brake shop has more american Ts and unions than metric. It's that, or salvage a bunch off the wrecking yard hulks (or hunt down new metrics). But if I use the Supra proportioning valve, I'd need to put those metrics on. . . .. maybe metric from the sterring box forwaard and standard from the firewall back. . . . I'm torn. Any good sources for reasonably priced metric brake fittings?
trw: So would you say you apply more or less force to get the new vette / disc setup to lock vs. the old 4 wheel drums? Also, do you know what make your MC is? I see Napa carries two brands. Probably not OEM.
This really looks like a great conversion.. Not having to deal with a booster would be *wonderful*.
This really looks like a great conversion.. Not having to deal with a booster would be *wonderful*.
Its hard to say exactly becuase I went up in tire size and went from a car tire to a mud tire. The m/c was also bad for about the last 3 yrs so it was pretty much impossible to lock it up. I think, if I remember right, even when my brakes were adjusted really well I never locked the front, but the rears locked all the time. It takes some effort to lock them up now, but that is mostly because it prefers to stop really fast. Real nice control. Oerall I'd say it is probably slightly less to even pressure to lock em up now. The real kicker for me was at a stop on a slope. Before I had to stand on it good to hold it still. Now its just a maintaned gentle pressure.
Don't know the make of the mc, just a rebuilt unit from a local parts store. One thing to watch for, in 75' they had both power and manual brakes available in the 4 wheel disc vette. Make sure you get the one for manual or the hole for the pushrod won't be deep enough.
The only standard line fitting is going to be back at the gm caliper which you want to be flex hose. I'd just get all the donor ends from the donor vehicles from the toy front disc and the supra (or other toy car w/ 4 wheel disc) for the new lines and bend up all new.
Don't know the make of the mc, just a rebuilt unit from a local parts store. One thing to watch for, in 75' they had both power and manual brakes available in the 4 wheel disc vette. Make sure you get the one for manual or the hole for the pushrod won't be deep enough.
The only standard line fitting is going to be back at the gm caliper which you want to be flex hose. I'd just get all the donor ends from the donor vehicles from the toy front disc and the supra (or other toy car w/ 4 wheel disc) for the new lines and bend up all new.
Hi all! (1st post here.) I'm in the midst of a brake upgrade on my FJ40.
Curious whether there would be a difference in braking/holding force between a power and a non-power master cylinder with no vacuum to the booster (i.e., engine stalled)... assuming the same m/c bore and pedal force/leverage?
Seems it would be the same, but I dunno. What I do know is that I don't like not having brakes when stalled in a sketchy situation.
My brakes will be 78FJ discs front, gm monte discs rear w/ adj prop valve, '75FJ master (~$45 rebuilt from napa), single booster, all new lines. I think my new setup will be stronger, regardless, than my worn, misadjusted junk, but I'm curious before installing the new M/C.
TIA. -Ed
Curious whether there would be a difference in braking/holding force between a power and a non-power master cylinder with no vacuum to the booster (i.e., engine stalled)... assuming the same m/c bore and pedal force/leverage?
Seems it would be the same, but I dunno. What I do know is that I don't like not having brakes when stalled in a sketchy situation.
My brakes will be 78FJ discs front, gm monte discs rear w/ adj prop valve, '75FJ master (~$45 rebuilt from napa), single booster, all new lines. I think my new setup will be stronger, regardless, than my worn, misadjusted junk, but I'm curious before installing the new M/C.
TIA. -Ed
Yes it would be roughly the same. Go read up on how a booster works.
Consider an electric vacuum. Won't lose brakes if you stall.. won't burn up your engine if your booster springs a leak.
Consider an electric vacuum. Won't lose brakes if you stall.. won't burn up your engine if your booster springs a leak.