adding a OEM rear E-locker

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FirstToy said:
The best setup, which is avail to 100 owners, is Lockers front/rear (ARB/OEM or ARB/ARB) in addition to the ATRAC.

Amando has the nice 80 diff lock switch and it looks like it was born on the 100. Really nice integration.

Here's the ARB setup. I was quite pleased:
 
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turbo

How is the turbo?
 
I think you need to find out of the axle shafts are a different length w/ the OEM locker, as this can significantly add to the cost if they both need replacing. On the minis, one uses the same axles, so you only have to grind out a notch for the actuator, weld a bead and grind it for the new gasket, and drill & tap some more holes and insert longer studs for the actuator motor assembly. I heard on the 80, one axle shaft is a different length. The ECU can be built from two relays and a SPDT switch for < $30.
 
The mini is different.

The locking collar on the rear of 80/100 with locker actually rides on the axle spines. The axle on the locking side is splined much further down the axle to accomodate this.
Carl
 
The easiest way to get the Toyota e-locker in your 00+ LC is to swap the entire e-locker equipped axle into the later model. This is the way several of my friends have done it in the non-locker equipped Tacomas.

You can wire it up or use a cable locking mechanism from Downey. I'd prefer to wire it up...

The issue becomes one of cost vs. benifit. Can you find one for less than the cost of an ARB and installation? If you can find one cheap, then you may recoup the cost by parting out your old axle or sell it outright to someone else.
 
calamaridog said:
The easiest way to get the Toyota e-locker in your 00+ LC is to swap the entire e-locker equipped axle into the later model. This is the way several of my friends have done it in the non-locker equipped Tacomas.

You can wire it up or use a cable locking mechanism from Downey. I'd prefer to wire it up...

The issue becomes one of cost vs. benifit. Can you find one for less than the cost of an ARB and installation? If you can find one cheap, then you may recoup the cost by parting out your old axle or sell it outright to someone else.

And ARB is stronger....though you now have air lines. :rolleyes:
 
Rear factory locker

Indeed. The rear factory locker is very strong. Th carrier bearings are massive, the journals are about 1/2" thick, case is much thicker than ARB. But who really has broken either one anyways, both are plenty adequate for the vehicle. The 80 rear locking diff uses much larger parts than any light truck dropout style differential.
 
sleeoffroad said:
On the front, but I do not believe it is stronger on the rear. In any case, if one stacks rocks on the crack, you do not need a locker or strong axles. :D

Ouch! Come on Shotts! You need to represent all of us 100 guys and take the 100 to CM2005. I'm hoping to have mine built up for next year, but would love to see pics of you conquering Moab in your 100 this year. Just do it man!
 
sleeoffroad said:
On the front, but I do not believe it is stronger on the rear. In any case, if one stacks rocks on the crack, you do not need a locker or strong axles. :D

I can't bring rocks for stacking Christo. My P.O.C. rear bumper can't tow worth beans. :D
 
LOL, Shotts you're always being so controversial;)

I agree both the stock unit and the ARB units are very good indeed. Can't go wrong either way...
 
John, got me there. But, I have some of those tracks, but they for sand only. I do have some exhaust jacks I can bring and we can inflate them and put them in the crack.

Just don't do this line. However the truck was no locked and did not get to scraped up.

mb01_049.jpg


mb01_050.jpg
 
sleeoffroad said:
John, got me there. But, I have some of those tracks, but they for sand only. I do have some exhaust jacks I can bring and we can inflate them and put them in the crack.

Just don't do this line. However the truck was no locked and did not get to scraped up.

mb01_049.jpg


mb01_050.jpg

See...See...that makes me salivate for my 80. Cut frames, the thing can ROCK. It's awesome!
 

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