A/T fluid flush and refill and Filter (1 Viewer)

[firensteel]

Looking at the lengthy blue room discussion I have as many questions now as I did before I started reading. Any info here would help.

I am at 62k and ready to do the trans service on what Toyota called a lifetime trans.

I am ready to buy the new filter and 16 qts of Toyota WS trans fluid. The filter comes with a pan gasket.

I plan to drain and remove the pan, clean off the gasket, clean the magnets replace the filter and reinstall the pan with new gasket. I then will refill by pump the A/T fluid and then move on to removing the upper coolant line and attaching a 3/8 inch id clear hose to the line and cycling running the engine for 30 seconds to use the trans fluid pump to push out old fluid. Stop the engine and pump the correct amount of new fluid back into the trans fill hole. Repeat the cycling and refilling until clean red fluid emerges at the clear hose. Then button everything up and run the engine until the trans pan reaches 125 F as shown on a digital thermometer that I have access to. Undo the 5mm level bolt in the bottom of the pan and fill until the fluid just starts to come out of that tube. Button that up and close the fill plug and all should be good.
Is this the correct procedure?
Any input would be great if you have better info. I do have torque specs, not mentioned here ,that I will adhere to. Looking forward to hearing valid info from all of you , Thanks.

 

[1911]

That's basically it. It's easier/faster with two people; one underneath to monitor the old fluid coming out, and another up top to keep dumping quarts into the fill hole. To do this, you need to run a plastic hose from the fill hole, up through the engine bay, to a funnel. Much easier than pumping it in from underneath, though that is certainly an option. The main thing is, you don't want to run the system dry and get a bunch of air in it - that will make it way harder to tell when the clean new fluid is circulating.

The only other advice I would have is to buy 20 quarts of WS ATF, because it usually takes more than the exact fill volume to get everything flushed out, and you'd rather have a little too much than not enough to do the job right.

The drain and level-check plugs use small Torx bits, and are pretty easy to strip, so make sure your Torx bit is the correct size and is fully seated and perpendicular before you start applying torque to loosen them.

 

[firensteel]

Good advice I will buy enough fluid. Whatever is left over can be used next time. I am sure I can enlist the help of my son.
I did not know the fasteners are torx, will check that out. I only have torx drivers as hand held, like nut drivers, so may have to take that opportunity to buy new tools!
Thanks.

 

[firensteel]

////The drain and level-check plugs use small Torx bits////

Not on my 2012, they are as follows, fill plug 24mm or 15/16 inch. Drain plug 14mm. Pan bolts 10mm. Level plug 5mm hex key (allen).

I am really happy that Toyota put a drain plug in the trans pan though. I have done AT services before on Dodge Ramcharger, Chevy K-5 Blazer and Chevy S-10 Blazer and non of them had drain plugs. Was a real mess lowering those pans full of fluid!!!!!

 

[1911]

////The drain and level-check plugs use small Torx bits////

Not on my 2012, they are as follows, fill plug 24mm or 15/16 inch. Drain plug 14mm. Pan bolts 10mm. Level plug 5mm hex key (allen).

Good to know, and a good change on the part of Toyota. Mine is a (2006 build) 2007; should have said so.

 

[firensteel]

Good to know, and a good change on the part of Toyota. Mine is a (2006 build) 2007; should have said so.

I think all that happened during the big 2010 shake-up when a lot of things changed on the FJ. Mostly under the hood including changing from spin-on oil filter to under engine cartridge type plus suspension changes, i.e. larger diameter sway bars and mount changes etc. Air intake changes to a bellows system to quieten the air intake noise. The list of changes in 2010 thru 2014 from the earlier models is pretty extensive.I think the best switch was to full synthetic oils for engine, diffs, transfer case etc.

If I can't get to this service next weekend I will do the service and write-up after I come back from an England vacation so probably in July.