'89 Toyota pickup 4X4 front rotor problem

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I always thought NAPA hadthe best parts. Well that was a mistake. I wa trying to put a GOOD set of rotors on it. I was't trying to cheap it in. I didn't want to get slammed with an OEM price either. I have never bought OEM parts unless I couldn't get the part elsewhere. Man did I screw up! I have a warped set on the truck and a warped set in the box.

I have been thinking about changing them out myself but have a fear of messing up the hubs. I am mechanically inclined to a certain degree but I have never messed with locking hubs and on top of that have had back surgery [twice] and would have to do it in a gravel driveway.

I don't want to have to do it again and don't want to get into these hubs and have problems. Just thinking if I do it I can pack or replace bearings if needed and whatever else needs done. I am aboutt ot buy a set of tires and with the cost of 31X10.50s am looking to save a buck or two on the brake labor.

85+92...yes I have stock tires on it. I boughta set of 235X70X15s when I got the truck. It has a little lift and doesn't look too good with them on it. Wish they had left it down also as tires are double from what I have to what it would look good with.

It is a good truck and I had plans to keep it for a long time but even though I got a good deal on it knowing it needed some work Every time I have to do something to it it costs a fortune. They are great trucks till there is a problem then hang on. Also I have never owned an import truck. All my experience is with chevys and Fords. Quite the different animal.

I gave 2400 for it and now with all the stuff I have done to get it back in top shape I have double that in it. I have to keep it now. It has NO rust in it and except for the brakes it is in EXCELLENT shape. It does have high milesage 215K but it runs and drives lie a new one except for the the rotors.


where do I find the 93 online cat?
 
OEM rotors have a specific weight, thickness, & vain count

99% of "rotor" companies dont try to duplicate this and thats where you get your junk/thin rotors

not a plug as I dont work for them anymore BUT advance auto parts brand of "WEAREVER" rotors ARE held to this standard and Ive never had a problem running them.

you may want to look into 4runner brakes? I know the calipers are different maybe they have thicker rotors?


or just go OEM if theyre not $100000.00

EDIT: this thing have stock tires?




Autozone doesn't list that brand.just Duralast and Valuecraft....

Brake Rotor - Front | 1989 Toyota Pickup 4WD (6 cyl) 6 Cylinders V 3.0L FI | AutoZone.com
 
I'm at a loss here.

Also the truck sets up a little higher in the back than the front. It has "shackles" on rear springs and I guess they got the front height with the torsion bars....?

I would guess that this, due to the proportioning valve, is making the front brakes work harder than they should.

ANyone want a GOOD trucck that has all kinds of NEw stuff on it? From rear brakes to shifter bushings and EVERYTHING in between?

I have had the front end gone thru and aligned. pitman arm replaced.
brakes all the way around
master cyl
timing set
water pump
plugs
cap
rotor
wires
changed all fluids ;Xfer.rearend, tranny}

Goodyear futuras(I think they were called best SUV tire good year makes) about 1/3 left. worn very evenly. 179/per @ walmart.

have changed oil every 3ooo since Ive had it which is 10K. oild is almost as clean when I change it as when I put it in. I grease everything every time I change oil.

starts and runs out like new.

NO rust.. seats are even like new.

Make me an offer.

In South Central KY
 
Took it to Big-O today.

Put a new caliper on the driver's side. One of the pistons was sticking.. Went ahead and replaced the padd, they weren't completely gone but went ahead anyway. Turned the rotors. When we were putting it back together the master cylinder decided it was going to die on us. So now I have a year warrantee on it. If it doesn't act right I will take it back.

$290 bucks

Had just had th go throught the back ones at just under $200. But if they go bad in two years I just take it back and THEY figure it out.

I know the mechanic and we went ahead and packe the bearings and made sure EVERYTHING was right. We worked on it from 9 till 1:30 so I feel it is right. IF not, like I said, I take it back.

I bought a set of Kelley all season 265X70X15s thsi weeks so All together I sunk $940 in it. IT isn't worth it but what do you do?

To be honest I wish I had left it where I found it. I have never had so much trouble out of a truck in my life. I'll NEVER own another one. Parts are outrageous and the little slant eyed guy that engineered it is sitting somewhere laughing his butt off. There is NO reason to do things the way they did...ie. the rotors. They are ok if they are running but if you have trouble HANG ON!!

I've had Chevys, Fords, Mazdas and NEVER have I had to sink so much money in a truck. The american mades don't last as long but they are reasonable to fix. I have $5-$6K in a $3K truck and I noticed I STILL have to replace my rotor cap. The coil wire musta been loose and it has burned up the port it plugs into. I had noticed a little miss from time to time and getting worse. So I guess I'll spend a little more. All this on a truck with OVER 200K. Not smart on my part but I am in it so deep I can't back out now.
 
I'm glad I found this thread, I'm needing to change out the calipers (seized on one side at least) and the rotors. If I have to take apart the locking hub I'll wait a few more months before I do that (I'll just take it to another mechanic, the rotors are decent now, but my mechanic says they need to be turned or changed in another 6 months or so).

Sorry to bump up such an old thread. I love Toyota's (1996 and prior so far) and couldn't dream of owning another truck for work.
 

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