'88 Spider Swarmin' V6 EFI M/T

Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
This vehicle was purchased from one of my buddy's late uncle 3 weeks ago. He was the original owner and had really tweaked the wiring system and emission related items and had sat for 5 years. It was a killer deal of only $500 from the my friends grandma and came with 8 (so far) brown widow spiders and about 25 (so far) egg sacks.

First off, the vehicle had about 5-10 lbs of extra wire routed and shoved in various spots, 4 different alarms with each set of wiring still there from each, and random switches which led to nothing. No wonder my buddy or his father DIDN'T want it. From a glance it looked like a nightmare, but i was willing to tackle it.

So my first objective was to strip the interior and set all wiring back to factory settings.

I was told that the motor is fairly fresh and there are no drivetrain or coolant leaks. However, there is a broken windshield, broken grill, rusty windsheild frame w/holes rusted through, rotted tires, some dents, leaking brake master cylinder, leaking clutch master cylinder, rust in the gas tank (surface only), ceased up fuel pump, jacked up fuel level sensor, cracked vacuum lines everywhere, ceased starter, and no seats.

Here are some pics for you guys.

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So far the brakes system is fixed and bled, clutch system as well, fuel system has been cleaned and gotten a new pump, filter, level sensor. There was a missing VSV (fuel reg) which I found among all the extra parts that came with this project and hooked up, replaced all baby vacuum lines and hooked them up correctly, replaced the starter, replaced engine oil/filter, new spark plugs, and new cap and rotor, plug wires look brand new.
 
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Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
Electrical woes

There is one problem I have encountered as I try to start it. The starter relay clicks and I ohmed out all the wiring in the starting system and everything checks out. However the damn thing wont kick the starter over, but i can feel the solenoid on the starter barely try to move. So I've traced the problem to be the WHITE wire coming out of the underhood fuse block top connector, which goes to AM1 on the ignition switch(not enough current able to travel). So I added a wire in that circuit to replace the white wire and sure enough the starter works now. It must be a corroded or broken wire behind the dash????

Well now im able to start it up and it fires right up now no problem, but I think it has a miss fire as it shakes pretty bad. I am not sure where to go or check next. SO here is a pic of the ECU and connectors. Please help me with getting this back to normal.

MODecu.jpg


I have an extra knock sensor input wire??? Its not hooked up to the engine, it sits under the drivers side fuel rail. and this pin was just lying on the floor board.

The BLK/dotted red wire is what??? because it is spliced up to the OX sensor sheilded wire (I still need to wire the OX sensor up under the drivers seat).

Should the E1 and E11 wires be spliced to the sheilding?

If anyone out there knows what is up please help. Thank you in advance.
 
Joined
Aug 31, 2008
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1,855
So I've traced the problem to be the WHITE wire coming out of the underhood fuse block top connector, which goes to AM1 on the ignition switch(not enough current able to travel). So I added a wire in that circuit to replace the white wire and sure enough the starter works now. It must be a corroded or broken wire behind the dash????

Without my FSM in front of me, IIRC, that white wire's the one that attaches to the end of the ignition switch, where the key ends up. They're always breaking off, especially on 20+yr/old rigs that've led a useful life because they move with the switch. Pop the switch out and check to see how rotten the solder is by now. IMHO, desolder the whole setup using some desolder wire (no blower as the crap'll get into the keyways. Use some decent electric solder w/ a good silver content level and rewire it.

As for the loose wire, you got me, there's no sensor port on the block? Time for Wristy (WristPin) to chime in. :popcorn:

Grab these while they're available, then you always have some available if you don't have a paper version. (I run all of them on an 8gb flashcard..then all I need while out and about is a device to view them.)

**Is that a 22 shell they used for the Blk/Red-dot wire(s)? :lol: ..and left them wide open?? :clap:
 
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Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
I will have to give WristPin a call this weekend. I got his number off of the FAQ section, but I wanted to document what has been going on so he can take a peek as well.
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
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2,543
Location
the Lower Shenandoah Valley
Without my FSM in front of me, IIRC, that white wire's the one that attaches to the end of the ignition switch, where the key ends up. They're always breaking off, especially on 20+yr/old rigs that've led a useful life because they move with the switch. Pop the switch out and check to see how rotten the solder is by now. IMHO, desolder the whole setup using some desolder wire (no blower as the ****'ll get into the keyways. Use some decent electric solder w/ a good silver content level and rewire it.

As for the loose wire, you got me, there's no sensor port on the block? Time for Wristy (WristPin) to chime in. :popcorn:

Grab these while they're available, then you always have some available if you don't have a paper version. (I run all of them on an 8gb flashcard..then all I need while out and about is a device to view them.)

**Is that a 22 shell they used for the Blk/Red-dot wire(s)? :lol: ..and left them wide open?? :clap:

no it is not, it is a grounding crimp used in residential wiring! looks like a .22 shell though!
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
Softy. My brother wants it to be a capable 4x4 but keeping it on 32X11.5X15
Going to make some bumpers for it, and an old school rollbar with lights, eventually.
Keeping the dents and the faded terracotta paint.
Putting in some racing buckets, race trim seats probably, with some Crow seatbelts.
And maybe an Aussie locker in the rear.
Gotta get it running smooth first so it can pass smog.

Norcal Born - I have a stack of manuals which came with the truck, looks like they have already had some good use though
 
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Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
Update

I finally figured out the starting problem with regard to the starter relay for the M/T. The ignition switch supplys the power to the relay coil as well as powering the starter solenoid. The coil alone draws alot of current, giving the solenoid less juice. SO on the number 4 pin coming out of the relay, I snipped the BLack wire and powered it straight to B+ with an inline 30amp fuse. Then it fired right up. Wooh Hooo!
Next problem is why it is running rough as Sh*t. Remeber I have already replaced the fuel pump, filter and cleaned the tank and lines out. I got my hands on a pressure tester and with the fP jumped to B+ the read out says 49 PSI. According to the FSM, this is too high and the fuel pressure regulator needs to be replaced. So then I pulled the jumper and the pressure would not hold, it rapidly drops, stays around 20 PSI at the minute mark. Then in 3 minutes it shows ZERO PSI. I am for sure going to replace the pres. reg. and then test again, but I am thinking the injectors are toast as well.
FAWWWWK:bang:
 

jynx

Turd Herder
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Apr 24, 2010
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Eagleville, TN
Might check the timing on it. If it is off, that will throw everything out of whack. Might even go ahead and replace the timing set on it. The v6 has been known to jump a tooth on the timing gears and that will make it run like :censor:.

Can't offer much on the wiring side as I am still learning on that side of things.

If this is already done or in process, then disregard the above.

Looks like this will be a nice rig, and as far as it being capable and on 32s, I think you need to do a 4WU three link and get it low enough to suit 32s and then tell me how you did it so I can run 33s :grinpimp:

Good luck,

Tucker
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
The timing is something I should of checked already. But I haven't. I want to get a new timing belt on it for sure, but I dont want to fawk it up if I try do that myself.
One day this truck will have the SAS done, But I highly doubt 3 or 4 linking this rig would happen.
After all these things are sorted out and everything is tip fawkin top, she'll be ready for another 200k.
It does need a grill if anyones got one that is not broken.
 

jynx

Turd Herder
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Apr 24, 2010
Messages
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Eagleville, TN
Doing the timing belt isn't that bad, and given it's current state, pulling the radiator to get access to the front of the motor would make things much easier. If you dig in there, I'd recommend that you go ahead and swap on a new water pump and thermostat.

Main thing with the belt is to get all the gears lined up where they go, start by putting the belt on the crank and work up counter clockwise keeping tension on the belt until you get it to the tensioner. I also rotated the engine several times to make sure all the timing marks lined up with each rotation before buttoning it back up.

If wires cap and rotors etc. look good I'd leave them, but plugs are cheap and the PS are not easy to get to, in case you haven't tried already, so I would go ahead and plop some new ones in just so you don't have to go back after you get the upper plenum back on.

This is going to be a nice little ride. Keep us posted. Also, who is the owner of what appears to be a nice 40 sharing the garage? Never mind, saw your sig line, so I'm guessing you are.

Tucker
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
Its been some time now, I've got it running smoother. I ended up getting a NEW but BAD pres. reg, so that had to be replaced again, but in the time it took me to figure that out I made my own flowrate resistor tester and tested the flow rate on all the injectors. Every one was good. Checked the timing it was at 10 degrees, I changed it to 11-12 degrees as I've heard it is optimal.

The next thing I messed with is the AFM air-flow-meter, I changed it a bit so the emissions wouldnt burn my nose and when it ran smoother and it seemed better doing some hot laps down the street.

The front end has new rotors, pads, bearings, caliper seals and boots, and buffed the gunk off the hubs. Looks good now.

On the list is to fix the exhaust leak, and get rid of the 40 series flowmaster muffler. I think I might get my hands on a complete exhaust system from a 93 4runner and mate it up to work.

One more problem is when it gets warm it wont kick over and start. It almost does but it never will. So I use starting fluid in the breather from the valve cover to before the throttle body. I was wonding if engine code 22 would cause this? the gauge doesnt work either..
 
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Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
166
Location
Southern cali
Yeah I'm the owner of the 40, my brother is the owner of the pick-up, but he has me doing the work. Lucky me.:rolleyes: So one day we can trail ride together.:cool:
 

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