86 4Runner

[flash02]

I've been on and off this group for a few years, I've always had a soft spot for Toyota 4x4's, I've owned 4 FJ40's and two first gen 4 Runners. I decided to give up on the FJ40's due to well....needing a more useful truck that can be economically driven every day, has good heat in the winter and A/C in the summer as well as comfortable on a long distance trip. I grew up with an 86 4Runner so I knew what to expect, MPG, power, or lack there of, and most of all reliability.

I cam across my current truck by way of a coworker that purchased it for the same reasons that I was looking for one, he came across some engine problems and when he could not figure them out he sold the truck to me for $500.00. Check out the photos.

 

[jynx]

That is a very nice looking 4runner. Looks like an LC Engineering engine, or at least some LC dress-up parts. Interior looks great as well. It has the 4runner saggy butt syndrome but that can be taken care of pretty easily.

Did you get the motor problem sorted or have you just started on it? Heck I would double your money on as it sits.

 

[flash02]

I've done the following

Rebuilt 22RE with engine builder head, and engine kit. the head is the one with the larger valves and slightly higher lift cam.

LC Engineering header back exhaust with high flow cat
LCE cold air intake, throttle body spacer, ignition wires and loom spacer

Cleaned, and buy that I mean I spent about 8 houses with solvents and brushes scrubbing the upper and lower intake manifold
LCE EGR delete
Recon/cleaned injectors
Late style 22RE straight throttle body. I got this from EBay for about $60.00 then bought a new throttle cable for a 92-95 4cyl 4Runner, the older cable will not work
New clutch and flywheel
New clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder
New OEM brake master cylinder
New OEM rear wheel cylinders and shoes
New flex brake hoses
New radiator
Fixed numerous wiring problems, the biggest being the interment starter. This was not due to a faulty starter but poor wiring, I wired fused power direct from the battery to the starter relay, starts every time since.

Completely rebuilt the AC system. Rebuilt Denso AC compressor, new correct evaporator, Denso expansion valve, Denso drier, and upgraded the condenser to a parallel type, re charged with 134a. Also replaced the blower resistor and fan clutch. If there questions ask.

Replaced the steering box, all the steering rod ends as well as the idler arm.
New pro comp shocks
Added a leaf to the rear springs

Wet Okole seat covers front and back

16" Tacoma rims
SR5 gauge cluster
SR5 shifter knob
Custom leather shift boot

Still need to address the rust on the drivers side 1/2 panel
Add cruise control
And replace the rear springs, add a leaf has made it to stiff

I drive this truck every day, I get 23mpg on the highway and about 20 in town, the seat covers make the seats a bit more comfortable but I would still like to replace them at some point. I would estimate that with the original purchase price of $500.00 I have about $3,000.00 into the truck, not too bad. I started this project about two years ago, it is a work in progress, I sill have work to do such as new CV axels, front axel bushings, rust repair, paint and a ton of little upgrades. luckily this truck is from Texas so the rust is not bad, hell most if the hardware under the truck still has the original gold coating intact. Oh and with the 16 inch rims and tires I get a bit more of an overdrive, at 70MPH the engine is turning about 2800RPM's vs 3000rpm with the old 15" wheels, the speedO is off a bit but that's what GPS is for, right? I hope you enjoy my write up and ask as many questions as you want I've learned a lot about these old 4Runners, and would love to share tips and tricks I've learned along the way.

Take care,
Corey M.

 

[flash02]

That is a very nice looking 4runner. Looks like an LC Engineering engine, or at least some LC dress-up parts. Interior looks great as well. It has the 4runner saggy butt syndrome but that can be taken care of pretty easily.

Did you get the motor problem sorted or have you just started on it? Heck I would double your money on as it sits.

Thanks, I've spent a TON of time and elbow grease. Motor problem? Looks can be deceiving, the head and internal engine parts all came from engine builder, the exhaust is All LCE as well as the intake and ing wires. The valve cover I did myself with a lot of cleaning and several cans of wrinkle paint. Oh and my local Toyota parts counter has a few pay checks too, the parts counter guy gives me a brake when he can. I'm not convinced that it is sagging too bad, I think someone my have fooled withy he front torsion bars, could be a bit of an optical illusion, I think this since it is a bit bouncy up front and I've added a leaf to the back spring packs, the springs are not flat although I do plan to replace them.

 

[Bastler]

...the parts counter guy gives me a brake when he can...

In any other context, I'd have assumed you meant "break," but this time, I'm not so sure...

Looks like a beautiful ride.

 

[Thundra]

I see you have a lot mods to all those pesky vacuum lines. I have an 86 as well. Do you have any trouble smogging that thing missing all the original nonsense?

 

[flash02]

I see you have a lot mods to all those pesky vacuum lines. I have an 86 as well. Do you have any trouble smogging that thing missing all the original nonsense?

No smog tests where I live, the only thing they look of is a Cycladic converter. Vacuum leaks are easily solved with new silicone lines, also removing the EGR valve and cleaning will assist in smog checks, further, removing the entire intake system and having it hot tanked will also improve things and lastly sending your injectors to mrinjector.com will solve more then just poor performance. Most people just think the 22RE is gutless, actually it's not too bad, the problem is that they are all old, running with dirty intake manifolds, clogged injectors, failing EG systems, week coils, etc...remember the easier an engine can suck in and and push it back out the better it will perform. Buy the way I think the injector cleaning is about $15.00 per injector with a quick turn-around, don't fall prey to "on vehicle" injector cleaning. The best and really only way to clean injectors is to remove them, test them, ultrasonically clean them while operating the coils, replace the Orings and screen then re test and check for proper spray pattern.

 

[flash02]

In any other context, I'd have assumed you meant "break," but this time, I'm not so sure...

Looks like a beautiful ride.

Yep, it happens time to time, I'll blame it on auto correct, but probably poor communication between my brain and fingers.