80s OWNERS BEAWARE
- Thread starter MARCIN
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I like the timing chain on my echo "never needs replacing", or so they say....
The thing I dont get about the hdj80's and all this bearing replacement voodoo, does it need to be replaced again once these things wrap another 100 someoddthousand K on the odo?
The thing I dont get about the hdj80's and all this bearing replacement voodoo, does it need to be replaced again once these things wrap another 100 someoddthousand K on the odo?
Read in the diesel section about it. Guys like greg_b say the acl bearings are then good for life. Lot's of opinions in that section on it.
If it was mine I might pull them out in 100k to re-look at it. But I am a worry wart sometimes....LOL
Nice truck Marcin. Almost as cool as your 40 
.
Interesting problem with those 1hdt's. Having to replace bearings that often points to lack of lubrication. In theory the crank should never come into contact with with the bearings in any engine if there is adequate oil pressure and good quality oil. What's an acl bearing?
.Interesting problem with those 1hdt's. Having to replace bearings that often points to lack of lubrication. In theory the crank should never come into contact with with the bearings in any engine if there is adequate oil pressure and good quality oil. What's an acl bearing?
Okay, you forced me to read. After a VERY quick looksee at that VERY foreigntome diesel tech page, I found this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/97003-hdj81-1hd-t-beb-replaced.html
So my quick take on the problem with the "BEB" Big End Bearings, or the more proper terminology of Connecting Rod bearings, is that the original bearings were made from some inferior japanese metal (aluminum) (wow, what a shock-inferior japanese metal!) and perhaps poor quality oil as well. The ACL that is referred to is a brand name of a bearing supplier for the new installation.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/97003-hdj81-1hd-t-beb-replaced.html
So my quick take on the problem with the "BEB" Big End Bearings, or the more proper terminology of Connecting Rod bearings, is that the original bearings were made from some inferior japanese metal (aluminum) (wow, what a shock-inferior japanese metal!) and perhaps poor quality oil as well. The ACL that is referred to is a brand name of a bearing supplier for the new installation.
Yup supposedly from a type of material that wasn't quite perfect. Also there supposedly a different type of oil meant to be run in this engine. But maybe the cases of flaking is on engines that did not see the special toyota oil.
ACL is a brand that Greg and Sheldon sell.
ACL is a brand that Greg and Sheldon sell.
- Thread starter
- #10
I picked it up from Grant, owner of:
tyeeimports.com
It is truly my dream truck, the manual hubs and factory lockers were a great bonus surprise as they were not mentioned in the ad.
So far i had to fix the starter (Bendix gear assembly was worn and wobbled on its shaft cosing an occasional nasty grinding noise) FYI lorco has the replacement copper tabs and solenoid piston rebuild part for $16.
Plus not a single hinge was ever lubricated, back gate would stay open at 45deg...
Graphite powder made the windows move again...
And the "common problem" on the 80's rear vents were leaking, 6" of water in each of the rear quarter panels. That is why the 80's always smell moldy if those are not resealed.
Oh, one more : speedo cable... 15 min job done in 8 hours flat, hahaha
As to inferior metal and bad oils, that is what seems to be the case.
Jeff it was a peace of mind thing, however I had this feeling...that bothered me.
I am currently going through a full "enviro-save" (Powertrain Protection) treatment to the whole drive line plus I just installed the "inter-charger" (http://www.intercharger.com/). I have been tracking fuel consumption, and will have a full rapport on "mud" in few weeks. So far this treatment resolved my transmission problem of grinding syncros in 2nd and 3rd gear it also quieted it down, try it before rebuild ($32) per component ie. transmission, TC or diff.
cheers! and happy holidays!
tyeeimports.com
It is truly my dream truck, the manual hubs and factory lockers were a great bonus surprise as they were not mentioned in the ad.
So far i had to fix the starter (Bendix gear assembly was worn and wobbled on its shaft cosing an occasional nasty grinding noise) FYI lorco has the replacement copper tabs and solenoid piston rebuild part for $16.
Plus not a single hinge was ever lubricated, back gate would stay open at 45deg...
Graphite powder made the windows move again...
And the "common problem" on the 80's rear vents were leaking, 6" of water in each of the rear quarter panels. That is why the 80's always smell moldy if those are not resealed.
Oh, one more : speedo cable... 15 min job done in 8 hours flat, hahaha
As to inferior metal and bad oils, that is what seems to be the case.
Jeff it was a peace of mind thing, however I had this feeling...that bothered me.
I am currently going through a full "enviro-save" (Powertrain Protection) treatment to the whole drive line plus I just installed the "inter-charger" (http://www.intercharger.com/). I have been tracking fuel consumption, and will have a full rapport on "mud" in few weeks. So far this treatment resolved my transmission problem of grinding syncros in 2nd and 3rd gear it also quieted it down, try it before rebuild ($32) per component ie. transmission, TC or diff.
cheers! and happy holidays!
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Hmm. The intercharger made my B.S. detector go 'awooooga...awooooga" like a ship's fog horn.
5 speed looks great! Nice score on the lockers...
.. curious about the graphite powder - if this is the same stuff (goldy brown) that I used to buff the fine scratches off my window - how did you apply it to make the windows up/down improve? There's a great thread on replacing the channels but did you find a quick fix?
Nice truck
Nice truck
- Joined
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- Threads
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- 638
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- www.jjadventuretours.com
Seconded! I've never found a good solution to the cold/damp weather/sticky windows problem (siliconing the glass to the channel stops the glass falling out but the windows still need "manual assist" when it gets real cold..ie. grab the window and pull up on it while pressing the up button). Does the graphite powder work well???
Nice unit Marcin